Electric fuel pump 6.9 IDI
#1
#2
many guys here run the Facet Duralift pump. they're preferred because they can suck fuel as much as 10 feet up, unlike most pumps that prefer to push not pull.
others are running a carter or airtex pump made for diesel.
anyone who has tried the mr. gasket pump has posted with bad results and short life.
personally, i have an airtex pump set up in an unusual way: its in line with the mechanical lift pump (which is less than a year old), and is wired to only run when the glow plugs are on, making it a starting aid only, for when i have air in the lines. for only running 15 seconds at a time a couple times a day, it'll last forever i'm sure.
for doing it this way, i still use the mechanical pump i just bought last year, but have a backup for starting with air intrusion, and in the event of the mechanical pump failing, i just have to bypass it and change one wire on my e-pump, and i'm back on the road. i see it as the best of both worlds, others here see it as a pointless system. you decide for your truck.
as you know, most guys who do it remove/bypass the original lift pump and have the e-pump wired up so it has power whenever the fuel solenoid on the IP has power
others are running a carter or airtex pump made for diesel.
anyone who has tried the mr. gasket pump has posted with bad results and short life.
personally, i have an airtex pump set up in an unusual way: its in line with the mechanical lift pump (which is less than a year old), and is wired to only run when the glow plugs are on, making it a starting aid only, for when i have air in the lines. for only running 15 seconds at a time a couple times a day, it'll last forever i'm sure.
for doing it this way, i still use the mechanical pump i just bought last year, but have a backup for starting with air intrusion, and in the event of the mechanical pump failing, i just have to bypass it and change one wire on my e-pump, and i'm back on the road. i see it as the best of both worlds, others here see it as a pointless system. you decide for your truck.
as you know, most guys who do it remove/bypass the original lift pump and have the e-pump wired up so it has power whenever the fuel solenoid on the IP has power
#3
many guys here run the Facet Duralift pump. they're preferred because they can suck fuel as much as 10 feet up, unlike most pumps that prefer to push not pull.
others are running a carter or airtex pump made for diesel.
anyone who has tried the mr. gasket pump has posted with bad results and short life.
personally, i have an airtex pump set up in an unusual way: its in line with the mechanical lift pump (which is less than a year old), and is wired to only run when the glow plugs are on, making it a starting aid only, for when i have air in the lines. for only running 15 seconds at a time a couple times a day, it'll last forever i'm sure.
for doing it this way, i still use the mechanical pump i just bought last year, but have a backup for starting with air intrusion, and in the event of the mechanical pump failing, i just have to bypass it and change one wire on my e-pump, and i'm back on the road. i see it as the best of both worlds, others here see it as a pointless system. you decide for your truck.
as you know, most guys who do it remove/bypass the original lift pump and have the e-pump wired up so it has power whenever the fuel solenoid on the IP has power
others are running a carter or airtex pump made for diesel.
anyone who has tried the mr. gasket pump has posted with bad results and short life.
personally, i have an airtex pump set up in an unusual way: its in line with the mechanical lift pump (which is less than a year old), and is wired to only run when the glow plugs are on, making it a starting aid only, for when i have air in the lines. for only running 15 seconds at a time a couple times a day, it'll last forever i'm sure.
for doing it this way, i still use the mechanical pump i just bought last year, but have a backup for starting with air intrusion, and in the event of the mechanical pump failing, i just have to bypass it and change one wire on my e-pump, and i'm back on the road. i see it as the best of both worlds, others here see it as a pointless system. you decide for your truck.
as you know, most guys who do it remove/bypass the original lift pump and have the e-pump wired up so it has power whenever the fuel solenoid on the IP has power
when i had lift pumps fail they pump fuel into the crankcase, wouldnt your electric on just do that if the pump failed and you tried to use it to get home? or you have 2 sets of hoses?
#4
b-uno,
there is a button called search opposite from the new thread button. I bet you could find 8 hundred million threads on this forum with all the information about electric fuel pumps in these trucks. Plus you wouldn't have to wait hours for people to post the same stuff again and again and again...
Just saying..
there is a button called search opposite from the new thread button. I bet you could find 8 hundred million threads on this forum with all the information about electric fuel pumps in these trucks. Plus you wouldn't have to wait hours for people to post the same stuff again and again and again...
Just saying..
#5
b-uno,
there is a button called search opposite from the new thread button. I bet you could find 8 hundred million threads on this forum with all the information about electric fuel pumps in these trucks. Plus you wouldn't have to wait hours for people to post the same stuff again and again and again...
Just saying..
there is a button called search opposite from the new thread button. I bet you could find 8 hundred million threads on this forum with all the information about electric fuel pumps in these trucks. Plus you wouldn't have to wait hours for people to post the same stuff again and again and again...
Just saying..
never heard of this button.
#7
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#8
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Solid State Reliability: Proven on many original equipment applications No electrical contacts. No bearings or diaphragms to wear out or fatigue. Endurance life almost doubles that of our nearest competitor.
Easy to Install-Easy to Service: Two bolt mounting makes installations easy. Nothing to adjust. The pump is self-priming to 120 inches (3.0 m). Vertical mounting is preferred to assure maintenance of rated pressures. The transparent housing allows for visual capability to monitor the cleanliness of the stainless steel filter.
Eliminates Vapor Lock: When properly installed on most vehicles a constant, smooth, dependable supply of fuel under pressure is assured in the hottest weather or in high altitudes.
• Self-priming with a 10 ft. minimum lift
• Transient Protection
• Check valve
• 4 hour dry run
• Self-regulating
• 33 - 50 GPH
• 15 - 9 PSI
• VCA approved EC 95/54
• State-of-the-Art Electronic
• Sealed Electronics
• Reverse Polarity Protection
• Corrosion Resistant over 100 hours salt spray
• Durable Transparent fuel bowl
• Light Weight - 3LBs at 7 1/4”
• Low Power Requirements 1.4 amp on average
• Operating Temperature Range: -40F to 180F
#9
changing it over to running independent isn't just a flip of a switch, it would be re-routing the wire that controls the relay for it AND bypassing the lift pump
#11
Join Date: Mar 2012
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I too have been wondering about switching to the electric lift pump. My truck starts hard, even with the block heater plugged in. It could sit for 30 min. and starting would be hard. I have no glow plugs, so I have been "Plugging in the truck". I was wondering if I had a fuel issue. Is the Electric lift pump better than the mechanical one? I'm wondering if the truck is losing its prime.
#12
I too have been wondering about switching to the electric lift pump. My truck starts hard, even with the block heater plugged in. It could sit for 30 min. and starting would be hard. I have no glow plugs, so I have been "Plugging in the truck". I was wondering if I had a fuel issue. Is the Electric lift pump better than the mechanical one? I'm wondering if the truck is losing its prime.
Secondly, look up air intrusion, though I think glow plugs are your primary issue.
Electric pumps treat the symptoms, they do not fix the underlying problems.
#13
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Right now, Drive train is priority. I'm putting the glow plugs after the drive train(Tranny and T case). I don't mind plugging the truck in until then. I'm saying, the truck shouldn't take 5 to 6 seconds to start after sitting for 30 min, assuming the engine was running 30 min. ago and completely warmed up,either by running it or the block heater. Also, there is a small leak at the fuel pump. I'm just wondering if an electric lift pump is better than the stock pump.
#14
since your lift pump is leaking, i call it JUNK. therefore, you'll be buying a fuel pump ASAP, and the only question is which type to get. considering that, the general consensus around here has been to go with the electric.
on the subject of your hard starting, an air intrusion issue on an otherwise perfect truck will start as follows: warm up glow plugs, crank engine, starts almost instantly but dies after 1-2 seconds, crank for a long time to get fuel back up there.
your problem sounds more like the glow plugs are CAUSING your hard starting.
in my van, with good plugs and not losing prime, i never have to crank for more than a second to have her running
on the subject of your hard starting, an air intrusion issue on an otherwise perfect truck will start as follows: warm up glow plugs, crank engine, starts almost instantly but dies after 1-2 seconds, crank for a long time to get fuel back up there.
your problem sounds more like the glow plugs are CAUSING your hard starting.
in my van, with good plugs and not losing prime, i never have to crank for more than a second to have her running