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I have noticed for a while now that when I take of from the lights or change from drive to reverse there is some slip in the driveline before it bites. Clay noticed it as well when he drove it so its time I fixed it. Easy job (1/2 hour) just couldn't be bothered getting around to it.
first thing to do is mark the joint and shaft so it goes back on the same spline
then if you are careful you can pry open the clamp so you can reuse it (gotta think of the environment)
then undo the four 8mm bolts on the uni joint, get a pry bar behind it to compress the spline and rest the shaft on something
as you can see mine was bone dry
grease up the spline - I put a bit to much on at first. You will notice when you try and put it back on the spline if there is to much
bolt her all up. Dont forget ya marks and no more slip
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Brian
03 F250 XLT LB . Full Engine build with all the goodies. Tuned by Matt
- cant wait until my motor blows so I can blame someone else - join the Australian Chapter here-Join Chapter
Nice tip. Thanks for sharing. I think my truck needs this. I can feel a slight vibration at about 80kph which sounds like a worn uni-joint or unbalanced tailshaft. I wouldn't be surprised if doing this will solve my problem.
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Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
Prob never had grease in the first place,just that useless blue crap,typical factory BS.
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Bryan.
2005 FORD F250 7.3L, Maxxis BigHorns 35's,16x10 alloy rims,5"Procomp/Icon Vehicle Dynamics lift,AIH Delete,CCV,FRX,HPX, OCR,JW valve body,mag-hytec rear diff cover,wicked wheel,Garrett turbo outlet,F6 chip,Custom 4" to 5" exhaust,All from clay @ RiffRaff,BD big trans sump,Carpc got the ****,got a IPAD in the dash now
Nice tip. Thanks for sharing. I think my truck needs this. I can feel a slight vibration at about 80kph which sounds like a worn uni-joint or unbalanced tailshaft. I wouldn't be surprised if doing this will solve my problem.
This is for slackness in the driveline. If you have a vibration it could be you carrier bearing.
Thanks for another good tip there Brian. That makes a lot of sense and should also be an easy fix. I'll chase a new bearing and replace it on suspicion.
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Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
havent really looked at it but I have read that you should shim the carrier bearing for every inch of lift. Dont know what Bryan would do with he's airbag. If its up he would have to jump under and shim it up. When he puts it down out he goes again and takes em out. Man it would take a long time getting anywhere
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Brian
03 F250 XLT LB . Full Engine build with all the goodies. Tuned by Matt
- cant wait until my motor blows so I can blame someone else - join the Australian Chapter here-Join Chapter
__________________
Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
Actually i was going too add to this comedy hour,BUT changed me mind.
GFYself.
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Bryan.
2005 FORD F250 7.3L, Maxxis BigHorns 35's,16x10 alloy rims,5"Procomp/Icon Vehicle Dynamics lift,AIH Delete,CCV,FRX,HPX, OCR,JW valve body,mag-hytec rear diff cover,wicked wheel,Garrett turbo outlet,F6 chip,Custom 4" to 5" exhaust,All from clay @ RiffRaff,BD big trans sump,Carpc got the ****,got a IPAD in the dash now
It makes sense to shim it out so that the tail shaft is running as straight as possible from the tranny to the rear diff.
I should get a bit of creeper time in tomorrow for ANZAC day arvo.
Happy ANZAC day all!
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Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
Hunted down a few electrical gremlins with the truck's alarm system.
I had a big of a creep underneath to check out the drive shaft center bearing. With the truck raised about 3" there is a slight angle through the center uni-joint, but no more than the angle between the shaft and the diff center. In theory it looks possible to undo the 2 support bolts which protrude about an inch through the center bearing support bracket and put in some spacer material, like a steel piece with holes drilled in, it for the bolts to go through, the reattach the bearing bracket with the shaft being marginally straighter.
Has anyone done this sort of thing? Surely the guys running 8" lift must have done something like this...
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Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
I didn't realize your truck is lifted... yes, you will need to space it down.
Yes, it is designed to have spacers put in there, and I have done it on a few customers trucks. There are Ford official parts that are spacers... but no doubt $$$, just get a bit of 1/8" mild steel that is cut to size and drill 2 holes for the mounting bracket. Use 2 spacers if you need.
The guys running the crazy lifts need to both space it down and get their shafts lengthened (pun intended )
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Adrian | 2005 4x4 Diesel Ranger CrewCab in Aus | 2000 4x4 SC/LB F350 7.3 ZF-6 in the US
Will do. My truck is a 4WD with 3" blocks under the rear springs, with the short 1/2 inch thick spring removed (for comfort) and Firestone lift bags on 30psi, and a 2" leveling kit which consisted of a fairly long 4 leaf spring pack added to each side at the front.
No vibrations down low, but I get some sort of harmonic resonance at about 80kph which I suspect might be the rear tail shaft/s slightly out of balance. Not a huge issue as the noise is gone by 90kmh, but annoying enough in the 80 kph zones...
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Mods done: lots of cheap mods (Hutch, IC boots, plenum inserts, IH uppies, HPx, AIH delete, EBPV delete, hi flow outlet, CCV mod, OCR, Superchips, Zoodad, 6637, 4" TB exhaust, JW valvebody, coolant filter, FRx, '05 HD lights with switch bypass relays, B100 ready fuel system)
Mods NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo
Next mods: ? tuner, G2WW (on the shelf), alloy diff covers
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners and Plumbers use wrenches...
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