Started to take apart and clean up my 240 head and decided to see if it appears to have been rebuilt, the valve seals were still pliable and theres no slop in any of the guides.
I also see what may be hardened inserts?
Dunno, looks pretty much like mine did and it hasn't had inserts installed. From my understanding all 240/300s had hardened seats from the factory and nobody's suggested the head I ported would need hardened inserts. You should be good to go.
Ya the engine ran when we pulled the motor, it was running really rich and I didn't take it for a ride so I couldn't see if it was pinging at all but the engine ran. It was in a mid 60s f100 so I was concerned, now I'm thinking I may just clean it up and port it a little, slap it back together and when I can swap it onto my truck.
I took it in to Bud Walmer's Automotive machine service here in orangevale to get their opinion, after nuking it with a bunch of carb cleaner he said smooth out the exhaust polish the bowls and replace the valve seals/springs. There are marks on it from being ground on mostly in the exhaust ports, I think I will smooth out the edges around the guides a bit more and probably call it good.
I'm gonna have to get this done alot sooner then I planned. My local law enforcement felt the need to right me a fix it ticket this morning being as my valve guides are shot and supposedly that makes my truck a gross polluter.
I hadn't though I had removed all that much until I reassembled it and compared it to the rest but its awfully hard not to get carried away and with the new springs, gaskets, seals, locks and bolts I only have about $150 into it so as much as I'd love to push it I can't really afford to.
Does anyone know if the 240 heads are the same thin-wall casting as the 300 heads? The walls of the intake and exhaust ports on the 300 heads are only about 3/16" thick, so you can't take much metal out of them - just enough to smooth out the bumps.
I used the more mild stone to so I don't thick I damaged anything beyond repair http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...40-head-3.html
theres the inside view of the heads most of the material I removed was around the guides and even then I was alot more conservative then Baron was with his.
Looking good. Based on what the folks at FSP told me, you might go back and do more work on those casting lines in the intake port and definitely clean up the rough spots just under the valve seat.
I ground off a good bit of metal in the valve pocket and around the guide on the intake side. Especially on the short side towards the center of the cylinder. Upstream was pretty much just tidying up. There's not a lot of room to open up the port at the gasket face and still have it match up with the intake. I bought a used Offy intake I'm gonna use to check the port match but I've got to get one of the ears welded back on before I can bolt it down all the way.
I talked to a shop about filling the top of the exhaust port and lowering the roof at the exit a bit. Just from eyeballing the header and head mated up it looks like the port roof is higher than the bottom of the header tube. As cast - I didn't touch the gasket face on the head at all.
That valve guide on the intake looks newish so you may be good there.
All the valve guides are tight thats why I am being so careful on the grinding, the valves aren't even worn. I had the local machine shop confirm it someone re did the head before I bought the engine off of my cousin. This head came off the same 240 I got my offy DP and 500CFM carter off of we drove it back to his place after he bought the truck pulled the engine and stuffed it in my bed.
I removed some more material from the intake side, I'm thinking I am pretty much done with the first three cylinders minus some polishing i'll get some more grinding bits and a polishing kit next week when I get paid. I'll polish the exhaust on the first three then start porting the last three.