So I removed both wheels and went to the hardware store and got the biggest meanest screw driver I could find to remove the 3 slotted machine screws. Nothing budged. Exterior corrosion is non existant, but I did give them a sprits of penetrating oil. Any recommendations on proceedures and tools?

 

Hi There,

For screws that need a little more "convincing" I have an impact screwdriver. If those screws need to come out to get your drums off (I don't know that to be a fact), this would be the ticket:

Klein 70220 Reversible Impact-Driver Sets, 32530 Impact Tool Set

 

I had to heat them up red hot with the torch. then they hopefully will come loose. my largest screwdriver also is hex down near the handle so i could put some pressure or torque on the. Using a cresent wrench on the screwdriver. hopefully the drum comes off easy, that can be another challenge in itself.

josh

 

My screw driver is also hexed and I actually did try using a wrench to get more umph to no avail. I'm invastigating some drag link socket sets, but nonw of them are impact sets, just simply chromed. As for appying heat, I'm not sure that would be smart with penetrating oil and brake fluid in the vacinity...

 

That stuff burns off really fast once the torch hits it! . but seriously just make sure its not running or dripping off and it should be ok. just keep an old towel handy to smother it orn extinguisher handy

 

Ford tractors of the same vintage use the same type screws to hold the drums on. If an impact driver does not bring them loose, I drill them out.

 

Thanks for the tip. I may end up drilling it out as I have managed to strip it pretty good. I've never drilled out a screw before and I would love part number or some identifying information so I can source a replacement.

 

Loaded Commerce

Try the link to Just 8 Ns, Derick or Don Barkley. Great to deal with, fast shipping and you can believe what they say. My guess is the screws are the same as used on the truck. FWIW, on the tractors the screws serve very little purpose but to hold the drums on during assembly. The wheels and lug nuts hold the drum centered once installed. The truck may be different and I would probably feel a bit better using the screws to center the drums on a road vehicle. If you need just one, I can possibly dig around and come up with a well used one, from a tractor that is.

Edit: I looked around but could not find any of the screws.

 

I used an impact driver to get mine out, works great and didn't destroy the slot.
I also used my impact driver to remove the phillips head bolts/screws in the door hinges. The hinge screws took forever!

 

On my F-5, I ended up drilling out almost all of them. After trying impact driver and torch. Replacements were not difficult to find, though I forget the size on them. Good luck.

Duane.

 

I've managed to obtain an ipact driver and remove the all the screws. However, one head is pretty bad and I would like to replace it with a perfect one. My screw appears to be 1/2-13 x 3/4. These are not the same as what is on the 8n or other Ford tractors (3/8-16 x 3/4). Nobody seems to have the 1/2-13 x 3/4 slotted machine screw. Any pointers would be appreciated.

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA06008N6526

 

Trial photo gallery sharing link for me:

Pictures by Dexter1950 - Photobucket

 

Looks like it worked, Gotta love tearing a flathead apart.
is #7 hole sleeved?




wow, how did that happen?




where is the picture of your Drums?

 

Since my Hub endeavors I've been busy on the engine of Dexter.

This was a 1950 F6 3 Ton truck that was given to me for my birthday about 4 years ago. The fella that gave it to me found out that restoration was not his thing.

This past Spring I had the engine running numerous occassions but just for 5 minute stints as one of the water pumps was siezed. So no generator or water pumps were operational....but the engine ran really well.

So I embarked on reconditioning the cooling system. New water pumps, gaskets, thermostats, hoses, clamps and reconditioned the radiator. In all, it took about a month.

I was excited as ever to start it up and on a very weak 6 volt battery once I got it all back together I turned it over a couple of revolutions and it all moved great....but out of the corner of my eye I noticed when it stopped that the fan seemed to hit the wall....it was slight....I almost didn't give it any concern. So I threw the charger on the battery and went to bed.

When I awoke the next morning I took a wrench to the crank pulley and gave it a little turn to make sure things were loose. Well loose isn't the word. One little turn and I heard a clink clink clink from the mid section down to the pan and thought ....what the hay to be polite.

Long story short....I dropped the clean out of the oil pan and in the bottom was one of the chunks of cam shaft.

I subsequently pulled the engine and have a performed a complete tear-down of this engine....this is why theres no pictures of my hubs and the intended brake work I was going to perform. I got a bit side tracked.

On top of all this fun, I am a newbie at all of this. I have pit crew of elderly mechanics that are advising me along the way and their insight and advice has been awesome.

I finally figured out today how to post pictures through a hosting service....so I was going to start a new Post/thread that discussed the removal of the valve train as after 16 of them....I consider myself somewhat of an expert (like the rest of you Guys now). I just have to figure out how to start a new Thread. Pictures are worth a thousand words and I have another link to an awesome article that explained how to take these valves out step by step....I just wanted to add more pictures for any Newbies out there so they would know what they're getting into.

Turns out on number 2 cylinder, the intake valve was locked in its guide rock solid....and I suspect thats how the cam broke.

Having the time of my life learning this stuff and getting dirty.