F-6 Rear Drum Removal
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#18
This is Moran's thread.
I was merely attempting a photosharing link for the first time and couldn't find at the time how to start a new thread.
Hijacked is correct....my apologies.
When I get some time, I'll start a new thread about valve train and camshaft removal on V8 Flatheads now that I know how to photo share.
I was merely attempting a photosharing link for the first time and couldn't find at the time how to start a new thread.
Hijacked is correct....my apologies.
When I get some time, I'll start a new thread about valve train and camshaft removal on V8 Flatheads now that I know how to photo share.
#19
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#22
The drums SHOULD come off after the three screws are out (thanks FTErs for introducing me to the impact driver set). Mine took a little use of a hammer and 2x4.
If you can avoid taking apart your rear hubs, I would recommend it as the rear wheel seals are supposidly hard and expensive to come by.
If you can avoid taking apart your rear hubs, I would recommend it as the rear wheel seals are supposidly hard and expensive to come by.
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I should have paid more attention to the drums then, but I was running out of vacation time, and just wanted to get my "new" wheels cleaned up, painted, and on the truck.
I'm redoing the brakes now, with new lines, wheels cylinders, hoses and a rebuilt master cylinder. The m/c is the only part done so far.
#26
I realize this is a necro-post, but it fits the thread...
Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
#27
I realize this is a necro-post, but it fits the thread...
Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
#29
This worked for me
I took a wood chisel and ground it down to fit the slit. I then took a big vise grip and attached it perpendicular to the chisel and it hit with a hammer after heating each screw. Worked like a charm. Also the lugs serve as lug nuts on the drum. I thought the screws held the drum on.
#30
You can buy new screws for your drums that use an Allen wrench (hex ). They are called socket cap screw. 3/8 x 3/4. Also if the F6 is the same as F5 you can get new front and rear seals from Joblot Auto in New York. The rear # is BB 1175 c @ $14.95 each.
They are stepped seal held in with a retainer lock ring. Joblot seams to have a lot of parts for these bigger old trucks. I am working on a 1951 M5.
They are stepped seal held in with a retainer lock ring. Joblot seams to have a lot of parts for these bigger old trucks. I am working on a 1951 M5.