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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 08-16-2012, 12:06 AM
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Dexter,
You're doing great! I like the way you are just jumping right in there. I have to say that broken cam shaft picture is pretty impressive.

Hang in there!

Ben in Austin
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2012, 05:06 PM
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Now I'm confused... Is this a thread by bmoran4 or Dexter?
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:36 PM
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This is Moran's thread.

I was merely attempting a photosharing link for the first time and couldn't find at the time how to start a new thread.

Hijacked is correct....my apologies.

When I get some time, I'll start a new thread about valve train and camshaft removal on V8 Flatheads now that I know how to photo share.
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2012, 05:48 PM
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When you're on the main page for 48 - 56, on the top left side is the "New Thread" button.

Welcome to FTE!
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:01 PM
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Thanks.

I did find that finally this morning.

Cheers!!
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:08 PM
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How did you get the drums off?

So, bmoran4, how did you remove the rear brake drums? Do they come off after you remove those three slotted screws? Or do you have to remove the hub, axle and more?
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:14 PM
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The drums SHOULD come off after the three screws are out (thanks FTErs for introducing me to the impact driver set). Mine took a little use of a hammer and 2x4.

If you can avoid taking apart your rear hubs, I would recommend it as the rear wheel seals are supposidly hard and expensive to come by.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:30 PM
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Thank you SO much for this bit of information. I was under the impression the axles had to come out. And I really don't want to pull them if I don't have to.

This whole dually thing is new to me. So all help is welcomed.
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:55 AM
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Have you gotflten your rear wheels off yet? If not you will discover the benefits of a budd socket, the use of left and right handed threads, and the doubled over hollow studs.
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoran4 View Post
Have you gotten your rear wheels off yet? If not you will discover the benefits of a budd socket, the use of left and right handed threads, and the doubled over hollow studs.
Yes, I went through that learning process in April, when I got rid of the widow makers and replaced them with Budd wheels off a '79 Southwind RV. That, too was a learning experience.

I should have paid more attention to the drums then, but I was running out of vacation time, and just wanted to get my "new" wheels cleaned up, painted, and on the truck.

I'm redoing the brakes now, with new lines, wheels cylinders, hoses and a rebuilt master cylinder. The m/c is the only part done so far.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:05 PM
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I realize this is a necro-post, but it fits the thread...

Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2014, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiftyF6 View Post
I realize this is a necro-post, but it fits the thread...

Does anyone know if the 1/2-13 slotted screws on the rear drums are necessary for operation? I got mine out but would prefer to not re-install (and risk them getting stuck in there) unless they're truly necessary and not just "used during assembly to keep the hubs on." Thanks!
They are simply to keep the drums in place during assembly and serve no such function other than to generate 4 letter words.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:25 PM
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Thank you! I will omit them when I re-install.
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  #29  
Old 04-27-2014, 09:30 PM
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This worked for me

I took a wood chisel and ground it down to fit the slit. I then took a big vise grip and attached it perpendicular to the chisel and it hit with a hammer after heating each screw. Worked like a charm. Also the lugs serve as lug nuts on the drum. I thought the screws held the drum on.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:30 AM
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You can buy new screws for your drums that use an Allen wrench (hex ). They are called socket cap screw. 3/8 x 3/4. Also if the F6 is the same as F5 you can get new front and rear seals from Joblot Auto in New York. The rear # is BB 1175 c @ $14.95 each.
They are stepped seal held in with a retainer lock ring. Joblot seams to have a lot of parts for these bigger old trucks. I am working on a 1951 M5.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:30 AM
 
 
 
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