It looks like this:
And there's a deal of a bit about it at this link:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - 2012 Tennessee Garden Thread
Bluntly, what it does is spread out the plants in a way that makes them grow super strong because light gets into the center, makes them easier to manage and move about, and it causes all the veggies to hang underneath in plain sight!
Then figure the benefits of growing in a conservative "Grow-Trench" so nothing is wasted to support useless weeds...
The shade underneath also conserves water and deters unwanted growth.
I'm jazzed about this entire growing method!
It's fairly simple - drive short lengths of water pipe into the ground, cut them off even, fasten your trellis flat on top of it, shape the long edges to curl upwards if you wish
You may never have to go to all that trouble again!!!
*Plastic in the ground don't rust...
If it goes well this year, next I'll paint the wire parts with a roller.
(Don't even try it with a brush)
I'm working on version 2:
It's a length of trellis with pipes along the edges as extra support, mounted between uprights with rope so that the height can be adjusted up and down.
Makes it a U-shape though, and it has flexibility problems unless supported better
One advantage is that the U-shape cross section makes condensation drip in the grow trench, and it has easier access to the soil and sides
OBSERVATION: LARGE tomato plants generally branch off at about 0.25 meters in height. This is the height above ground that is close to ideal, because they will still go up some, but that leaves room to move around beneath. I strive for 24 inches, or about 2/3's of a meter. *Knee height
AT THAT BRANCH POINT all of the major vines (secondaries) will take off from the primary
OBSERVATION 2: At that point, if they are confined in a cage, the center of the plant is permanently shaded, subject to disease from excess water (causing leaf blight and rot), and the greater mass of it's energy from the sun is cut off...
Nutz to that! It is the nature of these to sprawl all over the place, we just don't want them on the ground so they will be better protected from being spoiled
All of this comes from my experiences with very large tomato varieties, such as beefsteaks.
Last year my plants got so heavy that they smashed all of my cages to the ground (I support them off the ground so the bottoms don't rust).
This year I have seed for "Weeks" Giant variety tomato's - in theory they shall make beefsteak tomatos look like CHERRIES...
I'm attempting to prepare for that
Have a look at this:
Weeks Seed Company - Greenville, NC - Home
Now - if you are interested in seeds from there - I have a notion one way is as good as another.
I happen to know that at the end of the American Growing Season, they WILL sell seeds on an individual basis.
And all of the ones I got that way were still so strong (potent) that they sprouted within 4 days. THE FOLLOWING YEAR
BUT! The Aussie growing year begins at the very tail end of ours, now don't it? How may that help...
I'd seriously like to send some of these seeds "OVER THERE" just to see what they do IN AUSTRALIA!!!
You send me a post paid envelope (ask if I have any left by PM first) and you've got them if I have any!
I grew their Chinese String beans last year - I measured one at over 47 inches imperial!
This is not an advertisement for a seed company. This is all about food
This whole thing is an adventure pointed at great big yields in the home garden!
"I can build ANOTHER truck if I can just get the bleeding grocery bill off of meself..."
Do I make sense to you? I seem to be considered totally nutz in the United States
***BEFORE YOU ASK!
The pink ones are flower buckets to sell to Ladies when they come up.
The green ones are "Spice Buckets" and may contain anything from Basil to who knows what, depending. Those there are "Onion Buckets" , with holes drilled around the edges so they can drain extra water. I made them outdoor pots
*Drill holes all around, 5 or 10 cm from the bottoms. If you drill the bottom exactly - they won't hold a water reserve
*if you have cheap plastic containers, remember this!
FILL BEFORE YOU DRILL
(The dirt holds them solid, so the drill bit don't crack them)
Fill cheap pots with dirt - especially decorative ones that can be sold for lots of cash if you don't ruin them - and a drill will punch a hole with no hassle at all (no worries)
My basic on this runs along this road:
1) I have soil.
2) Soil + water = food
3) Water so far can be had
4) If I fail to put the two together, I have nothing to complain about at the cash register of the local grocery...
*Sunlight being constant...
I will warn about this though - if you have one kind of tomato going in one part of the yard - but another in an opposing corner, they may cross pollinate, and you'll find a thing that is neither one or the other. So if you know definately that one of your neighbors grows CHERRY TOMATO's...
You're just plain doomed to small tomato's, I guess that's another thing to look out for
*YOU CAN WEED ALMOST THE WHOLE THING WITH A STRING TRIMMER!!! (which takes minutes)
We should develop this further
*He sezzz, thoughtfully...
Those who enjoy plants could make a lively living doing stuff like that.........................