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2004 - 2008 F150 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 or 4.2 V6 engine
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  #46  
Old 07-29-2012, 02:43 PM
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Papa Tiger Papa Tiger is offline
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Before you go and do a lot, why not pull the Battery cables, let it set for 15 and reattach. Let it relearn again, and it might get it right. This time break it in normally. Not hard. You have no obsene noises, thus it is probably vacuum related problem. The code is saying your VCT solenoid valve is sticking/malfing. This happens due to very small crude getting passed the screens and holding the valve in place. Pulling it, dis-assembly and cleaning it is next or new for good strokes. Going with lockers is for folk with out having to pass emmissions tests, So, which is it? I have to appreciate your completeness and believe motor is very clean, so NEW parts in the future?
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  #47  
Old 07-29-2012, 05:21 PM
shfd102chief shfd102chief is offline
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Thanks!

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SHFD make sure you check your adjuster tensioner seals make sure they aren't blown out. You don't want the oil leaks nohow.
Thanks Papa Tiger, I got a little tunnel vision when I ordered the lockouts and didn't consider a contingency plan if I came across other problems while I was already in there. I'll definitely keep a close eye on the chain tension and the condition of the tensioner seals. I don't want to take the valve covers off twice if I can avoid it.
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  #48  
Old 07-29-2012, 05:41 PM
PeterTheWolf PeterTheWolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Tiger View Post
Before you go and do a lot, why not pull the Battery cables, let it set for 15 and reattach. Let it relearn again, and it might get it right. This time break it in normally. Not hard. You have no obsene noises, thus it is probably vacuum related problem. The code is saying your VCT solenoid valve is sticking/malfing. This happens due to very small crude getting passed the screens and holding the valve in place. Pulling it, dis-assembly and cleaning it is next or new for good strokes. Going with lockers is for folk with out having to pass emmissions tests, So, which is it? I have to appreciate your completeness and believe motor is very clean, so NEW parts in the future?
Thanks Papa Tiger,
Very sound advice. I will start out with this. I had it out today in the city without any issues ... it ran great. I have 230miles on this oil change and I plan on changing the oil & filter at 500 miles once more.
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  #49  
Old 08-03-2012, 03:20 PM
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Rough running

Well I pulled the valve covers and timing cover. I bought the timing chain kit and replaced the chain, guides, and tensioners. I also installed the lockouts. It took a while to complete, but I was excited to finish up this morning. Then I started it and it ran really rough for about 30 seconds and then died. Now it won't start. Logic tells me that it is the timing, but I checked it three times before closing it up. I pulled the chain on the side opposite of the tensioner tight and lined up all of the marks. If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.
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  #50  
Old 08-03-2012, 03:46 PM
parkland parkland is offline
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Can your tuner pull codes?
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  #51  
Old 08-03-2012, 05:01 PM
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I'm sure you put the lock outs in the fully advanced position not retarded position and have the proper tune from them ? I would look to a missing vacuum hose 1st. Did yo change the drive gear on the crankshaft?
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  #52  
Old 08-03-2012, 05:52 PM
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Well I reset ECM and checked VCT solenoid.
All seems to be good. However, I am now having rough idle more often once I am up to temp.
I am actually thinking of trading this truck in on a new Chevy 2500.
I have about had it with Ford engineering. Even after a complete rebuild these 5.4 3v will not run right.

I am certainly open to any more advice. If I cannot get to the bottom of this issue... I will jump ship and buy Chevy or GMC and curse Ford to anybody who ask about them.
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  #53  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:15 PM
parkland parkland is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
Well I reset ECM and checked VCT solenoid.
All seems to be good. However, I am now having rough idle more often once I am up to temp.
I am actually thinking of trading this truck in on a new Chevy 2500.
I have about had it with Ford engineering. Even after a complete rebuild these 5.4 3v will not run right.

I am certainly open to any more advice. If I cannot get to the bottom of this issue... I will jump ship and buy Chevy or GMC and curse Ford to anybody who ask about them.
A part wore out, and instead of taking it to ford, and paying to get it fixed, you tried to fix it yourself, not by actually properly fixing it, but by butchering the engine in a way that was never intended to fix the issue, and now it won't work.

That is no reason to curse ford, but you can if you want.

By the way, you might have to jump a little higher than you think, our chev variable timing (yes, they use it too, not just ford...) fell apart and totaled the top end of the engine.
GM replaced everything under warranty, but it never sounded the same, and they stripped a bunch of bolts going into the block, and left us with an engine held together with helicoils or whatever.
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  #54  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:29 PM
Steve_Uzi Steve_Uzi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
Well I reset ECM and checked VCT solenoid.
All seems to be good. However, I am now having rough idle more often once I am up to temp.
I am actually thinking of trading this truck in on a new Chevy 2500.
I have about had it with Ford engineering. Even after a complete rebuild these 5.4 3v will not run right.

I am certainly open to any more advice. If I cannot get to the bottom of this issue... I will jump ship and buy Chevy or GMC and curse Ford to anybody who ask about them.
Trade it in while you can.. Because if you would have gone to Ford to have them diagnose it, then it would have cost you $3000-$4000 and most likely you would have been in the same situation! You most likely have low oil pressure @ idle.. therefore not developing the 30psi the Cam phasers need to keep the engine correctly timed.

I jumped Ship! I Traded in my F150 while the truck still ran and wasn't throwing codes - just running a little rough. No I didn't buy another Ford.. sorry..

I realize that I had bad luck with my 5.4 Ford.. but as they say in Baseball... "You are only as good as your last at Bat"
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  #55  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:33 PM
PeterTheWolf PeterTheWolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parkland View Post
A part wore out, and instead of taking it to ford, and paying to get it fixed, you tried to fix it yourself, not by actually properly fixing it, but by butchering the engine in a way that was never intended to fix the issue, and now it won't work.

That is no reason to curse ford, but you can if you want.

By the way, you might have to jump a little higher than you think, our chev variable timing (yes, they use it too, not just ford...) fell apart and totaled the top end of the engine.
GM replaced everything under warranty, but it never sounded the same, and they stripped a bunch of bolts going into the block, and left us with an engine held together with helicoils or whatever.
Now you sound like a man with great wisdom. "butchering". You don't even know my what my skill sets are.
Let's assume you are correct. Now let's also assume you are willing to offer your expertise ... Your last post will most certainly help me out.
Thanks for your valuable imput. I most certainly willing to use it to correct my problem if it offered any solution.
Or wait for somebody who may be humble enough to offer some points of advice to really address my issues.
With all do respect... I am looking for really solutions to help me with my problems. Not condemn me for trying to resolve it.
I am frustrated and searching for a solutions and solve this problem. At this point I am willing to get something with a warranty and let the dealer deal with the issues.
I am sure you have been in my shoes.
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  #56  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:37 PM
PeterTheWolf PeterTheWolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Uzi View Post
Trade it in while you can.. Because if you would have gone to Ford to have them diagnose it, then it would have cost you $3000-$4000 and most likely you would have been in the same situation! You most likely have low oil pressure @ idle.. therefore not developing the 30psi the Cam phasers need to keep the engine correctly timed.

I jumped Ship! I Traded in my F150 while the truck still ran and wasn't throwing codes - just running a little rough. No I didn't buy another Ford.. sorry..

I realize that I had bad luck with my 5.4 Ford.. but as they say in Baseball... "You are only as good as your last at Bat"
AMEN. I agree. Trade it in while it is still running.
I like the way you think.
You truly are a man of Great Wisdom.
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  #57  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:38 PM
shfd102chief shfd102chief is offline
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Tuner

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Can your tuner pull codes?
The tuner can pull codes, but the truck didn't throw any. I plugged it in anyway just to check and it came up with P1000 - which is just from the battery and computer being disconnected. This one is supposed to clear once the truck has been through a drive cycle and shouldn't affect performance.
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  #58  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:46 PM
shfd102chief shfd102chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Tiger View Post
I'm sure you put the lock outs in the fully advanced position not retarded position and have the proper tune from them ? I would look to a missing vacuum hose 1st. Did yo change the drive gear on the crankshaft?
I did make sure that the lockouts were placed in the fully advanced position and used the vehicle specific tune from Livernois. I also put on a new crankshaft drive gear that came with the timing kit. (New guides, tensioners, chains, and crankshaft gear) When I was installing the timing chain, the cams were a little off for the marks on the chain, so I rotated the crankshaft to get all of the marks to line up, since this was easier than trying to turn the cams. Once the left one was on target, I did the same thing for the right side. Could this affect my timing? I also noticed that when I try to start the truck with the tune installed, it will start and run really rough - extreme vibration. However, when I pull the tune off and go to stock it won't start at all. Also it acts like it is struggling to turn the engine over, almost like it's obstructed. I turned the crankshaft by hand several rotations before closing up the timing cover to make sure nothing was hitting, so I'm stumped. Is it possible to put the harmonic balancer bolt on too tight?
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  #59  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:57 PM
parkland parkland is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
Now you sound like a man with great wisdom. "butchering". You don't even know my what my skill sets are.
Let's assume you are correct. Now let's also assume you are willing to offer your expertise ... Your last post will most certainly help me out.
Thanks for your valuable imput. I most certainly willing to use it to correct my problem if it offered any solution.
Or wait for somebody who may be humble enough to offer some points of advice to really address my issues.
With all do respect... I am looking for really solutions to help me with my problems. Not condemn me for trying to resolve it.
I am frustrated and searching for a solutions and solve this problem. At this point I am willing to get something with a warranty and let the dealer deal with the issues.
I am sure you have been in my shoes.
I don't know you're skills, I didn't mean to make you sound stupid, but you ARE assembling an engine in a way it was never intended to run, and cursing ford.

If it works, great, if it doesn't, you can't blame ford.

If you assembled it correctly all stock, then curse ford if it doesn't work.

And yes I understand the frustration level, vehicles get built like they barely need to make the warranty expiry, or so you think when you run into this kind of stuff.
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  #60  
Old 08-03-2012, 09:34 PM
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Most likely turning the crank to get the cams to line up retarded the motor some. U want the crank on time, the pull of the chain tight and the cams on their marks or you end up unhappy probably. Sum make blocks to lock the cams in position. The New 3.7L uses a saddle block that fit the camshafts to hold them locked in place. It is best to turn the motor forward thru several revolutions by hand to make sure the marks always come back in line. Don't turn motor backwards.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:34 PM
 
 
 
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