You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
I have a 1997 F150 4.6L with port injection. I recently had a vavle job done on both heads (heads were resurfaced). After I put it back together the truck has a low idle (600 RPM in park & 500 RPMS in gear). The idle is a little rough at 600 RPMs but is really rough at 500 RPMs. If the idle is brought up to 800 RPMs it is smooth (by using the gas pedal). When the truck first starts (when it is warm) it will stay at 800 RPMs and then gradually moves down to 600 RPMs (within a minute). I have done the following:
1) replaced IAC motor
2) replaced the MASS airflow sensor
3) check for vacuum leacks by spraying WD40 around the intake manfold gaskets and all vacuum lines going to the intake hoping to find a vacuum leak.
Did you disconnect the battery terminal for a while so the PCM can relearn the idle speed?
If you unplug the IAC with the engine idling does the RPM change? It should die or come close to it if it is working right.
Maybe try checking for vacuum leaks with some Carb Medic instead of WD40....I think it works better.
I pulled the battery cable but it did not help. So, I decided to run a compression check and found that cylinders 1-4 were 125 PSI and cylinders 5-8 were 155 PSI. What would happen if I got the CAM off a tooth or two on cylinders 1-4?
1) Is it possible that the valve timing could cause all 4 cylinders to be lower (valve starts to open before full compression).
2) Could it cause the low/rough idle?
3) Is there any way to check the CAM timing without taking the timing cover off?
With the compression lower on the 1 bank it would seem like you got the cam timing off a bit
It would only take a tooth or 2 to cause your problems.
It's very easy to get the timing off from where it should be.
Dont ask me how I know
And no I dont think you can check the timing without pulling the front cover. Did you have the special tools to line up and hold the cams when you did the job?
I did not have the special tools to hold the cams. I marked the links and the cams (since Ford did not make this easy) and I put it back together with the marks of the chain and cam together. This was okay but when I spun the motor over a few times without the valve cover son ( to make sure that I didn't screw up and had the valves hit the piston) I noticed that one of the chain oilers wasn't working. So in the process of fixing the oiler, the chain jumped a tooth but I thought I got it back on correctly ( the marks were gone by now). So I guess it is time to take the cover off again. Is there any way of checking the alignment with out the special tools (since the cam marks don't line up in a logical manner)? If I remember correctly, there are the same amount of links going from the crankgear marking to each cam gear marking.
There are 2 different procedures depending on whether your engine is a Romeo or a Windsor. You can tell by the 8th digit in the truck's serial number. If it is a W your engine is a Romeo, if it is a 6 it is a Windsor.
Let me know which it is and I'll try to post the procedure for setting the timing.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.