Ok, This IDM thing is getting on my nerves. I ordered a GB reman IDM.

Before ordering this part I replaced both UVCH/ gasket sets and still had a check engine showing IDM and running rough on and off, then I ohm'd all the injectors and glow plugs, And sill had check engine going on off intermittently.

I was finally changed the IDM, and I still have the same issues.
Funny enough, it actually smoothes out when the Check Engine comes on ?

Could this still be a faulty IDM or should i be doing something else. I also had the batteries out for the whole day to clear codes.
Any other suggestions as to where to look would be great.
Thanks!

PS ( Unrelated ) I also afterwards put in a 6 position chip.
OMG I can not believe a diesel can blow away a BMW on the Highway

 

Have you tried unplugging your ICP Sensor or checking it for oil?



What about your CPS?

Did you ever pull Codes?

 

oh oh, I am trying to keep up with the terminology :-) Im a old Gas engine guy.
I didn't know these even existed. Yes, my autoparts guy pulled codes ( vague ) mentioned IDM, but not much more.
Does the ICP need to have oil or no oil?
The CPS was replaced recently by the prior owner.

Would the ICP be intermittent and give a IDM code?
thanks for the help !!

 

While Im asking, is there a certain ObdII reader I can get that will give me real codes? It seems generic readers make you end up at Ford to get raped.

 

Might as well ask all my questions in one thread :-)

I notice I hear a very load AIR sound from the exhaust, then goes away after a while. Is that an air pump running for something?
thx

 

Ok, went out to the truck and unplugged the ICP. Yes there is a residue of oil in there, I guess bad?

 

Without knowing the code, speculation is useless. IDM codes USUALLY mean a UVCH issue. IDMs generally work or quit. Best way to diagnose a bad IDM is to swap it out with a good one off a known running truck. (buddies truck.)

ICP should have NO oil on it when you unplug it. Oil means it is bad. Also, if it runs better with it unplugged, usually that means the ICP is bad as well. While you're back there, look down below/beside the fuel bowl and check the wiring to the IPR as well.

You need an OBDII reader that can perform diagnostic tests AND had Ford code reading ability. Generic OBDII readers won't access the individual systems, nor read most of the codes off a diesel. Snap-On, Auto Enginuity seem to be the most popular. I have AE and love it.

Can you describe the sound better? Could just be the turbo charger, but it could also be the EBV closing. When do you hear it and how often? Driving, parked, all RPMs, etc

 

Try running it without the ICP. (A CEL will come on) since there's oil in there, I would definitely replace it. I would be weary of aftermarket ones as well (especially ebay) I have read of a few aftermarket ones that blew out and stripped the threads.

 

Thanks for al your Help. Each time you send me abbreviations, i need to google it :-) Thats how I learn.

Ok, so as far as the ICP, Ill get a new one, Never hurts to have new.
The sound is difficult to explain, loud air like HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA, then goes off.

I have learned on thing in life, NEVER borrow a buddies anything :-) Once you do, and his car stereo fails, its your fault cause you touched his IDM :-)

Snap On-OUCH !
AE, is there a Mac program? I dont even own a windows anymore. Any Idea of cost?
thx so much !!!!

 

get AE. check that your boots are on tight, look for leaking up pipes, or maybe the compressor keeps cycling because you have a leak in your air system.

 

Oh ToMang07! I see, your an actual tech!
no wonder im having a hard time understanding:-) I just looked up the scanner and yep' also Ouch! :-)

while I have your attention, i get a code 27 from the airbag. it shows the light is out, but mine works?
thx
rob

 

I mean pass side airbag light :-)

 

Does it make a wind-down sound when you let off the throttle?

Does it do it every time you get on the throttle?

I agree with the above, check the up-pipes. (They go from the manifolds to the collector behind the turbo, then into the turbo.) You are looking for a lot of soot at the ends.

As far as boots.... chances are they are very oily. Minimally you should check them for leaks/holes. Check the clamps make sure they are tight. Without a boost gauge it's difficult to determine if you have a boost leak.

There are 6 boots. 1 at the end of each inter cooler pipe, and 2 under the spider.

I have an old laptop I use JUST for AE. I paid $350 shipped for my copy of AE. It has long past paid for itself. Riffraff Diesel has them. I don't know if they work with crApple... you can check their site to find out I'm sure.

 

NO! Not at all, actually. Just bored at work, lol

 

Well for a brored guy, you sure know your stuff! With the exception of destined for failure windows computers :-)
Thanks for the help !!!
rob