Hey guys,

I got the little car fixed up, so I have something to drive while I work on the truck. It needs some tie rod work sooner than later, so while I am saving up the money for parts, I thought I would get started on the Banks Sidewinder install.

I have everything I need to get started minus the glow plug relocation bracket but Aune163rd is sending it back to me so I should have it in the mail soon.

I'll try to take pictures.

 

SWEET!!!

don't try....DO post pics. LOL

 

I took some pictures already. I'm going off the Banks install manual, so you really can't go too wrong. I had to run to the hardware store to get some bolts I was missing but so far it has just been fighting the hardware.

I got the exhaust off, some of the intake manifold bolts swapped, the GP controller disconnected, ear sawed off the transmission, firewall insulation cut, heat shields near the exhaust removed (PITA aluminum rivets took a long to to get out!), return line disconnected (broke the nipple on the #8 injector return cap trying to get the hose off but I have plenty of spares), CDR relocation piece attached to the IP gear housing with RTV, CDR block off plate in place and the oil drain grommet installed with RTV.

I have skipped a few steps because I don't have the GP relocation bracket yet but I am trying to do everything I can without it. Tomorrow, I plan to get the up-pipe casting in place but there is a bracket that goes on top of the GP bracket that holds the casting in place. I an hoping to get the casting loosely attached to the passenger side manifold so I can install the cross over pipe and check for clearance for the down pipe.

So far, I feel this job could be a weekend project if all the tools and parts are available. I have only basic tools available, so if you have impact guns and such available, they could cut down on the install time.

I am waiting to adjust the fuel screw on my IP so I can get a baseline of EGTs and boost. I want to make this setup as efficient as possible, so I don't want to just guess the amount I should turn up the fuel. I also have a torque screw on my IP, so I can adjust that as well.

 

I got the oil sender out and a 1/8" NPT brass plug in its place. I am working on the oil supply line but I think I am going to end up getting an extension pipe and running that away from the oil cooler so it will be easier to attach the oil supply line. It is a real PITA trying to get it attached to the oil output on the block with that short 90 degree elbow connector.

I didn't get much done today because we had thunderstorms for most of the day.

 

Its a PITA to do without having your engine out of the truck when it come to that oil supply line. BTW. Clean whichever port you decide to use with something like brake parts cleaner or something....

 

that heat scheild was a real b**** wasnt it. i wanted to punch a ford engineer in the face for that one when i did mine

 

Yeah, no kidding, what ever happened to sheet metal screws? Maybe they ran out at the factory...

I need to purchase stock in brake parts cleaner for crying out loud. The stuff goes so quickly when you have an old diesel and parts are covered in grease and oil.

 

I got the oil supply line and oil pressure sender installed. For the oil supply, I picked up two 1/8"x4" NPT brass tubes and two couplings. I'll post pictures of what I did soon.

I am now battling the firewall cutouts so I can fit the up-pipe casting in. Mine has a stud on the turbo side that sticks out and is really causing me problems getting it in. I don't think the stud is installed with the new kits but after years of being in the up-pipe, I doubt it will come out easily. I ran out of daylight today and it is supposed to be rainy all week long. I'll post back when I get further.

 

Try simple green or power purple, real cheap cleaners that dont do too bad. Dilute 1:1 and with a spray gun and a couple apps gets the stuff off alright, and beats spending $30 bucks on brake cleaner, especially since ya cant seem to find the good chlorinated stuff anymore.

 

Installation pictures.

Index of /images/1991f250xlt7.3/banks-sidewinder/installation

 

oh man.iv got to do this.i'll call up banks tomorrow for my missing parts and be right behind ya eaton.i can't put this off any more.looking good! i'll be watching for tips!
how did you cut the ear off the trans? i didn't do that yet cus the exhaust is in the way.did you park the truck and take off the exhaust first?oh yeah,i missed it.never mind lol.thought id get a jump on another thing before parts come.

 

I bought a "mini" hacksaw and just went at it. I just hope I cut enough off. You do have to take the exhaust off first. You can make your life a little easier later by breaking the exhaust bolts loose. It should be lots of fun for you since you live up north with the rust. I had to use two long extensions on my 3/8" ratchet to reach the passenger side bolts. Aside from that, there isn't a whole lot you can do without parking the truck.

Get two 3/8"-16x2.5" bolts and two 3/8" lock washers because you will need them to replace the bolts on the #7 intake manifold when you remove the lift bracket. The original bolts are too long without the bracket (I tried). You could actually do that part now.

 

You could re-route your return lines. Just get a long piece of the return hose and route it from #7, under the intake manifold to the return tee by #8.

 

yup iv got that done.

i forgot about this.i'll pick up some fuel line in town.

im calling banks now.i pieced mine together and found out what im missing.some things i thought i was missing but have,but a few things i didn't notice missing before.
pretty much just the oil feed return oil drain gasket and grommet.
air filter base o-ring or gasket,whatever it is.#57 in the pic.
gp relocation bracket.was just gunna make one,but not gunna screw with it.
and the big air filter clasp.#54 it looks like.i'll get 28/52/53/54 so iv got the whole works.
looks like Jayme plugged of the stock boost gauge port and fitted a plug up top.i wonder why.guess it doesn't matter.all looks good.
she sure looks less complicated once ya take time to fit everything and look it over good.i can see this just being a weekend project all easy as long as all parts are there.
anyway,i'll be right behind ya with the install.probably a week or two behind depending on part delivery time.

this is going to be nice to have some extra grunt and economy too boot hey!

 

If you get the gasket kit, it comes with the oil feed O-ring, oil return gasket as well as the intake hat O-ring and a new O-ring for the CDR block off plate.

Aune163rd borrowed my GP relocation bracket to make copies and sell to people here. Contact him and I'm sure you could work out a deal.