hello my name is chris

i have a 64 390fe out of a thunder chicken that i put in my 74 f250. i am planning on doing a mild build and was looking for advice from some people with experience on do and donts, so far i have the following things in mind,

performer rpm intake manifold-edelbrock #7105, 1500-6500 rpm range, 4 bbl square bore flange (non egr)

jegs mechanical fuel pump 110gph-6.5 to 8 psi- 1/4 inlet/outlet ports-part number 15963

hooker headers competition- 1-3/4x27 primary tubes, 2-1/2 collector, silver metallic ceramic coating. part number 520-6905-1

comp cams hydrolic flat tappet cam, lift .494, duration 268, rpm range 1500-5500, this kit has everything they recomend. part number 249-k33-224-3

msd pro billet rtr distributor, part number 121-8595

it already has a edelbrock 750cfm 4bbl performer series carb on it electric choke. blaster 2 coil, edelbrock air filter, and a junk mallory unilite distributor, that is getting trashed.

truck is mainly used to occasionally show off in front off my ricer buddys spinnin there little tires, but i am going for more torque and a little bit of pony power too. more info on the truck- 4 speed 4wd 33 12.5 tires.

any input would be greatly appriciated, plz and thank you

 

You will have to fiddle with motor mounts, as the '64 uses, iirc, a two bolt set up vs. three used later. Check it out BEFORE you try to lower the motor on to the mounts.

Did you go through this motor? What pistons? A '64 T Bird 390 would be a 10.1:1 CR, and the pistons would probably be flat tops with valve reliefs at a near zero deck.

What heads? '64 heads have the buttery valve seats that don't last with unleaded gas.

 

what about the edelbrock heads would they be better fit for the motor or would i still port and harden

 

You should check with Edlebrock about the seats, and follow the other thread you have going for more advice. I see on that thread that you do not plan to bore or rering or even put bearings in it from what I can tell.

IMO you are building a bomb. Old motors with high performace parts don't last long.

 

im putting new crank bearings and such in i jus didnt mention it because that is typical stuff im going to check cylinder walls and such hone if need b. i just dont feel like boring it yet bc thats one less time i can bore it if i mess something up im doing gaskets seals and bearings all the way threw just not beefing bottom end till it is necassary

 

how much do u guys figure i could get hardend vavle seats done for, i talked to my local parts store and they said they would inspect them for $25, and do milling/machining on the heads for an additional $25. but they wont port or polish or anything else,

 

Better make sure the bores are still round. Round rings in an oval hole doesn't normally work very well.

 

ok well im pretty sure im going to do some home porting. using the gasket trick on exhuast side and little unsure if im going to do intake side. and to reseat my valves im going to try thr abrasive compound and do it by spinning a valve in there till i get a good ring around it. any input would b helpful as this is a big thing for me since ive never tried it before and my motor genius brother is saying im stupid for even trying it by myself. o and do u guys like percys dead soft gaskets. bought some for my hooker headers.

 

Hi Chris, I have a suggestion for your cam....avoid Comp Cams IMHO,
Here's the problem as I see it.....

By appearance - seems to be a company that has experience more cam lobe failures than most and places the blame on the low ZDDP in the oils. Is it a factor yes, but I highly suspect that they are also using Chinese cam billets and many of their cam billets are cast (not forged) & they do not include Parkerizing their cams (Parkerizing is the final step and a crucial step to help break the cam in- a heated acid bath that microscopically etches the metal surface and adds a very thin layer of graphite coating which allows the cam lube to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during cam break in) unless you specifically request and pay additional money for it.

I highly recommend Iskenderian & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. i know personally, that Isky checks every valve spring befor it leaves the shop.....I can guarantee comp doesn't do that....they are a mass-production center.

As you are probably aware, many of the cam mfgs in the past few years either sold, closed their operations to re-open elsewhere (typically with new staff) or .......

In addition to Isky & Crower, I use to very highly recommend....
Sig Erson & Crane...

Both became part of corporate entities, eventually leading to periodic quality issues and closing their doors- I think Crane re-opened, but with a different staff. Typically the staff is very, very young and well- requires a learning curve. If you do a search on the net, Harvey Crane has posted a little summary of the history of the people who made the cams at Crane, his opinion of what happened and the eventual outcome of several of the staff.

There are so many variables including elevation, humidity, fuel blends/available octane, most cam mfgs will vary a "core grind pattern" to match the external impactors in addition to the internal impactors- which today IMHO makes the different between and engine that runs well, to one that just seems to run a little bit better, smoother and gets better mileage than expected.

 

i would like to know what i would need to do and what is required, if i bought some edelbrock 60089, bare heads. i believe these ones will work they r for a 427 i have the dcomp cams valve springs, lifters, timing chain and gears, locks, cam, retainers, and seals. can i re use my old rocker system or will i need a new one and maybe a stupid question but do i even have rockers originally