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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #31  
Old 04-07-2012, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jermyjudge View Post
i have a similar problem right now. my truck will not crank, has no injector buzz when you turn on the key and no fuel pump running. I have unplugged the fan and every sensor that has a vref signal still nothing. The odd thing is that even with all the sensors unplugged it still has no codes stored. I checked all the fuses with a multi meter all are ok. This one has me stumped.
The fan MUST be plugged in you wont gain anything unplugging it

There are some Fusable links coming off the Batterys Im thinking at least one goes to the Ignition switch do they test ok with a DVM

and did you check the fuses with a DVM sometimes they can fail but look good test for continuity (my Bad I see now you did DVM check)

Some things will set a code imediatly otheres wont set a code that fast

do you have power to cig lighter
batterys at 12volts or better
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  #32  
Old 04-07-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by zhilton View Post
The same reason Ford designed the flash were if the EGR valve is unplugged the radiator fan won't spool up. Another item on the short list I'm going to run down when I find a couple of designers who designed these trucks.


all I can guess on the fan problem not letting the truck start is maybe its a Saftey deal so it wont overheat

Havent a clue about the egr valve/fan thing I know what you mean though
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2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2012, 01:36 PM
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Can a bad ficm cause injectors to go bad?
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:40 PM
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I found this http://alliantpower.com/pdf/TSB%2008-26-3.pdf

Let me ask before you swapped ficm's did you replace both batteries or have them load tested to see if the old one fried from low voltage?
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Last edited by raptor131; 04-09-2012 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Damn auto correct
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  #35  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:44 PM
skylinetowing skylinetowing is offline
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Both batteries are new
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  #36  
Old 04-09-2012, 04:05 PM
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Just throwing another idea out here. How is your alternator? It may have failed and then you drained the batteries leaving no power to run anything.
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  #37  
Old 04-14-2013, 12:37 PM
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Hey guys I seem to be having the same issue and have been since I have started pulling with my truck, not pulling big heavy loads but pulling trailers, i have just started researching this but so far this is what I have gathered, it seems to only do this when having pulled and dropped a trailer or while pulling a trailer, and I have no issues while pulling it only when I stop and switch the truck off, I know it's not heat related as I monitor my gauges and fluid levels closely, I believe the guy who posted about the power issue may be on to something, I have not yet checked my fuses but am going to ASAP, when my truck does this you can turn the key and the glow plugs don't cycle the fuel pump doesn't pump, the abs light the maintenance wrench and the glow plug light as well as the battery light all come on and stay on along with check gauges on the digital odometer also the truck starter does not engage the truck does nothing, I'm going to take it today and have the battery's and alternator checked to ensure they are operating properly, I have noticed if you do a hard recent or unhook the battery and hook them back up it fires the first time every time but I'm wondering if it is current related like maybe when I hook up a trailer the draw is too much and drains enough for not enough power, another thing is I have a system and after a few minutes the dash lights will dim and a small 1000 watt system on 2 10s isn't enough to dim 2 batteries, I need to get this figured out as the next time my truck won't crank in the drive through line I'm gonna torch it lol
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  #38  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:25 PM
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Bump......
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  #39  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MONSTERPOWERSTROKE View Post
Bump......
Did you get your batteries checked? How about the alternator? Out of the truck and on a bench is the best way to truly test 'em. No reason to torch the truck...even if it's a bad ground on one of the batteries.
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  #40  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:53 PM
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How do you test the alt I can test the batteries myself and the cables to the batteries look good I think if it is a ground it would have to be a different one
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  #41  
Old 04-25-2013, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MONSTERPOWERSTROKE View Post
How do you test the alt I can test the batteries myself and the cables to the batteries look good I think if it is a ground it would have to be a different one
Should be able to swing by your local AutoZone or Oreilly's and they'll test batteries & alternators for free. You just have to have 'em out of the truck....which is a good plan, you need to test your batteries separately. If they're both still in the truck a good one could be covering for a weak one through the cables.

There are several ground straps on the truck. One is between the battery & body on the passenger side; (been a while) but I think there is another one between the block & frame ahead of the starter also on the passenger side. I want to say another one is behind the oil fill tube...or is it behind the FICM on the driver's side? I'm not saying your issue is electrical, but you'd be amazed what a low voltage issue will cause on these trucks with there's high demand systems. Rule out the simple stuff before you assume the worse.
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