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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #16  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylinetowing View Post
I got my ficm from Midwest injectors it a alliant power ficm are they any good?
As far as I know, their fine; that's what Clay at RiffRaff offers. I don't remember hearing anything bad about them. Where is your old one? May have been money ahead to ship it to Ed and see what he can do for you. That would solve the whole "current flash" debate with the one you've got on the truck now.
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylinetowing View Post
I got my ficm from Midwest injectors it a alliant power ficm are they any good?

IDK about the FICM you just installed being your issue

Even if the FICM went bad after an hour drive it shouldnt cause Multiple Systems FAILURE IDK if the FICM could fail in a way to backfeed Power and take some other electronic stuff out

Im not saying your FICM is Good or Bad at this point but I dont think its your problem

There is also some Fusable links comming off the batterys on the + sides

Any DTC comming up????

Is it an AUto Transmission???

I know when trans Range Sensor Dont show its in Park or Nuetral it cancels the starter BUT IDK if it stops the Fuel pump and stuff like that. Next time I drive my truck I will check it out to see all systems that are affected
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:20 PM
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Auto trans I am waiting for a friend to bring me a scanner
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:47 PM
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Do you have a security system?
Have you reset the emergency fuel cut-off switch (inertia switch)
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:52 PM
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Yes I have a alarm the fuel safety is good
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:59 PM
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Also check your fan clutch wiring

No Crank/No Start; Vehicles with TorqShift Transmission:
If this condition is occurs it may be due to a problem in the cooling fan electric clutch. This may be accompanied by transmission range sensor codes P1705 (TR not indicating neutral on self test), P0706 (TR-P sensor frequency fault) and P0707 (TR-P sensor circuit duty cycle low input). Check the voltage at the TR sensor pin 21, circuit 371, it should read 12 volts. If the voltage is low (3-4 volts), unplug the cooling fan electrical connector and retest. If the voltage is now 12 volts, try starting the engine. If it starts, clear codes and test drive to see if the TR sensor codes return. If they do not, diagnose the cooling fan electric clutch. Broadcast Messages 0520, 1069.

A loose connection at the rear of the instrument cluster can cause a no start (the fan clutch is wired in w/ the instrument cluster IIRC).
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:54 AM
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I'm with these other guys. I seriously doubt it is the FICM.

I suspect the same wiring that has been talked about. The key point is that the starter doesn't at all engage. Even an internally shorted FICM that has blown the 50amp 'ECM' fuse would allow the starter to turn over.

Check every fuse and relay you can get your hands to, sure, but check the wiring connections on the various plugs, too. My guess is that something worked itself loose.

Hope this helps!
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2012, 03:25 PM
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Found a bad fuse number 22 which is the engine control truck started up but it shaking bad. Can this be a bad ficm?
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2012, 03:33 PM
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Can it be a short in the ficm
that cause the engine control fuse to blow? And that make it idle rough?
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  #25  
Old 04-07-2012, 06:53 PM
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I still doubt it is the FICM.

I suspect a failed switch - exhaust backpressure, fan clutch (as was mentioned above), and engine oil pressure switches are all good places to check. Lots of times the EBP wires will get melted and short out or something with a rough edge - bolt head edge, etc - rubs through some part of a harness.

Some people have seen their fan clutch wire cut by the fan, too. Ugh.

I'd carefully run through all the wires going to the various sensors looking for shorts. There's a whole lot of things tied into that fuse.

Keep us posted!
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  #26  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:12 PM
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Fan is spinning slow at idle can that be the fan is bad? Would that make it run rough?
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  #27  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylinetowing View Post
Fan is spinning slow at idle can that be the fan is bad? Would that make it run rough?

No shouldnt make it run ruff anything possible I guess whats the fan RPM at idel should be around 400-500 rpm or so

but may cause a no start the fan is tyed into the ignition switch/ignition system IDK Why
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  #28  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:30 PM
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"something" was responsible for fuse f22 - they don't often fail on their own.
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  #29  
Old 04-07-2012, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
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but may cause a no start the fan is tyed into the ignition switch/ignition system IDK Why
The same reason Ford designed the flash were if the EGR valve is unplugged the radiator fan won't spool up. Another item on the short list I'm going to run down when I find a couple of designers who designed these trucks.
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  #30  
Old 04-07-2012, 10:06 PM
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i have a similar problem right now. my truck will not crank, has no injector buzz when you turn on the key and no fuel pump running. I have unplugged the fan and every sensor that has a vref signal still nothing. The odd thing is that even with all the sensors unplugged it still has no codes stored. I checked all the fuses with a multi meter all are ok. This one has me stumped.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:06 PM
 
 
 
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