Sorry duplicate post.

 

AX,
Thank you for all the info and wisdom. My plan is to start the restoration with a minor overhaul of the "non-smoking" 256 CID Merc to stop all the oil leaks. Are there any areas I should modify in the engine to improve oiling? Then I am going to repaint the cab and frame. At that time I would like to replace all the wiring and fix any issues with lights etc. I am still undecided about the 12v conversion. But I'm leaning toward converting it for starting purposes and then reducing it everywhere else. I am also still researching the electronic ignition for starting and running in cold damp days. But if I can't use it with the 6v system I have another decision to make first.

Once I have the minimum required post I will put an add in classifieds for a couple items I'm going to need. But if anyone here can point me in the right direction that would be perfect. I'm going to need to change out the split wheels for a split rim or better. And I need to find a set of short running boards or make a set by cutting the back off mine and welding to a set of replacement boards. Any suggestions?

 

All the original Y block engines had an oiling issue that was solved by adding a copper line on the outside of the engine from the oil pump to the rocker shaft. Look for an external copper line.
Look here for a lot of info on the Y block.
Yblock
According to this site, Ford used the Lincoln 279 in their HD trucks in 1954. If that is what you have then you have an orphan block that looks like a Ford Y block but is physically larger and shares almost no parts interchangability.

 

According to the code EBY, I have a 256 cu. in. V8 1954 Mercury. I will look for the oiling tube and if it doesnt ave it I'll modify it. Thanks for the info.

I just discovered another problem. I have the widow maker wheels. Whats the best/cheapest solution? The truck has new rear tires so I really hate to change sizes.

 

Welcome to FTE! I'm an hour and a half away in California, MO.
There are lots of discussions on the widow maker wheels. Stu (truckdog62563) is our expert on wheels. If you do an advanced search for his username, you will find lots of info on options. It seems to be a big challenge for you big truck owners.

Guys, if he doesn't post pictures soon. I will run down there and use my ninja skills to take some stealth pictures for us.

 

Guys, if he doesn't post pictures soon. I will run down there and use my ninja skills to take some stealth pictures for us. [/QUOTE]

:-) I've been trying to post pics but I can't figure out the site. It keeps asking me for a URL and won't let me post them from my computer.

 

Ok, I think I found a solution to the Widow Maker wheels, unless anyone knows why it wouldn't work. I found six '43 GMC, 5 lug 20" split rim wheels. If anyone know why they wouldnt work please let me know. Otherwise I'm going to try to pick them up tomorrow, sandblast and paint them, then put them on tomorrow evening.

 

Harrier,
I'm going to search out Stu, If I find out that the GMC/Chevy wheels will work I'll let everyone know because I found a salvage yard full of them.

What type of truck do you have?

 

To post pictures you need to have them on the internet somewhere or become a supporter of FTE. I put my pictures out on photobucket. Once they are there I open the one I want up and right click and copy image url. Then you can click on the mountain scene in advanced posting and just paste the url.

 

Here is a rim search thread to start with;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...tern-rims.html

 

GM wheels are hub piloted. Fords are stud piloted. GM wheels will not work on your truck. Sorry.

I'm hoping Stu McMillan will chime in here. He's our resident expert on wheels.

 

Don't know anything about your wheel issues, But the lincoln engine was EAL casting.
Except for the lincoln engines all the Y blocks including the Mercury are parts interchangable.
In 54 Ford was just starting up their OHV V8 line. It could be that they ran out of the Lincoln engines when they built your truck and put in the Merc instead. The rating plate (in 54 was found on the inside of the glove box door) if still there should have an engine code for the original engine on it. (different code from casting)

 

I strongly suggest you do NOT add the oiling tubes.....they are a band-aid fix at best. If the tubes break or start leaking while driving, all of your oil will be pumped out of the engine. Had that happen....
Most of the Y-block's oiling problems were caused by poor quality oil and a mis-alignment of an oil passage in the block. Put good oil in it and change it often. If you ever tear down the engine, the oil passages can be fixed.

 

Well.......... DARN!!
He has some fords around with split rims. But I don't think he has 6 of them. I've started looking at every field and pasture I drive past. It's a sickness.

I sent Stu a message and hopefully he'll call me this evening. Thanks for all the help, I've learned a lot in 24 hrs. You guys are great.

 

Great advice. I am planning to tear down the engine, at a minimum to put all new gaskets and seals in. What do you recommend? Or, is there a thread dealing with this?

Thanks again