'70 F-250 360 2v 4-speed stock other than timing chain set up
I recently upgraded to pertronix I with their flamethrower coil.
Will start and idle, idle seems to be around 1k now and idles just a little rougher than it did with points/condenser. Also, will sound like something rattling under load and trying to accelerate. I know it is timing related as it has done this before. I had set it according to my manual at 8* BTDC, which solved the problem before . Vacuum advance does function, tried it with cap off and you can see the plate moving. What should i do as far as timing is concerned? Also, would i get any benefit from other plugs than the stock style autolites? I will get wires, cap and rotor as soon as i get it running properly.
Any help is appreciated

 

Sounds like timing to far advanced with the rattling. Did you recently change the timing chain? If so was it a single or triple keyway type?

 

Triple keway set in middle slot

 

I have a similar problem. But mine may be retarded too much. Might be out a tooth. I cant get mine to rattle when advancing. Its a bit boggy and sluggish under throttle. Talked to. Cleveland pro and he said to check the compression and if it is low... That could be the problem. I may just buy a single keyway DRTS and be done with it. I want to check some things inside and am changing my heads at some point, need to add a high velocity pump at the same time.

 

The Pinging may be due to the hotter spark having little cleaner burn and using low octane gas. These trucks were setup to run on back in day the low octane stuff of 91 and no E-85 crap.

Plus if you don't have harden exh. seats it's a matter of time you'll be needing the heads reworked with installing harden exh.

Putting in new seats runs between $700-900 depending where you live that is.

And it best to replace all the valves if you can, but mainly the exh. since there the ones that get hotter thinner edge lip and this causes them to not last as long like a new valve would.

When ever would do a tunup if the engine was running rough it's best to first do a compression test as you may have a leaking exh valve.

So if you have one low cylinder psi this will cause it to idle rough. and when a tuneup won't smooth out the idle it will be due to the low cylinder compression.
Orich

 

Well, I figured out that timing was wayy off where it belonged, i couldnt even see my timing marks for tdc or 10* 8* 6* btdc. I have it set back to where i had it running good before is 6-7* btdc, (book calls for 8) I'm just starting to work on everything on my own now as my dad drives truck now, but i think im doing ok for being 20 haha. Sorry to make you all read this and it was just a timing error on my part, and i do appreicate the help.

 

Have you got the Pertronix wired with a full 12 volts? Do you know about the pink resistor wire that needs to be bypassed when you go to aftermarket ignition set ups?

 

No, I don't know anything about the resistor wire. Its just wired up as instructions state. I'm not the best with understanding wiring, haha so any help would be great.

 

What he's saying, with a Flamethrower coil it's best to bypass the resistor wire altogether so the ignition sees a full 12+ volts in operation. Just run a heavy gauge wire from ignition switch direct to coil after disconnecting the "pink" wire.

 

What do you mean by ignition switch direct - direct from solenoid ignition switch contact?

 

He means Full 12V switched(Key on).

Ford started using the ballast resistor wire with the 1960 models. 1956 through 1959 Ford products had a separate wire-wound resistor ballast screwed to the fire wall. Value was 1.35 ohms nominal, which would provide about 6 volts to the ignition coil during run conditions. Of course, the starter circuit would bypass the ballast completely, providing full battery voltage to the ignition coil while starting.

Just confirm that while running you have 12V at you positive side of the coil, take a voltmeter on DC setting and measure to ground from the coil. This will confirm if you have a ballast resistor inline with your coil + source.

D

 

Here's a link to a drawing of how to bypass the resistor wire. (Thanks Mustang Steve on a Mustang forum) It starts at the ignition and at some point joins with regular wire and ends up at the + on your coil. You're not getting a full 12v at that connection to your coil. It'll run but not to it's full potential. You need to run a new wire from a switched source (on when key turns on) to the + on your coil.
The drawing is for a Duraspark II conversion but it shows what you have to do. The pink resistor wire is not regular wire. It reduces the voltage for your original points system. It was used on lots of old Fords and there's lots of info on the net (and this forum) about it.
conversion

 

It may be easier to understand if you just do a search in your browser bar box.
( Pertronix wiring up a relay to 12 volts) many sources to pick from that you'll understand..

Orich

 

If you are hesitant to mess with the wiring I can't recommend enough the Power Relay that Pertronix sells. It's a simple do it yourself kit with a relay and the wiring necessary to by pass the pink resistor wire and give the full 12 volts. It made all the difference in the world on my truck and at $20 or so, one of the better finds.

 

Don't have a part number do you?