Dang u have been busy. Sounds like ur makin head way even for being sick. And the part of the mount that bolts to the block I went with 3/8 and the rest of the motor mount is 1/4. And all of the frame mount is all 1/4. I will get some picks of it in a day or too

 

i feel better today so i think i might go get a start on the mounts to the motor the idea i have for the frame mounts will use the stock holes going through the boxed section of the frame and the top holes on the frame not sure how your's is since it's 2wd but my problem with my idea is how am i going to bend a 1/4'' piece of plate

 

lots and lots of heat... ya i see your problem.

mine actually worked out great. the 2wd crossmember is in the perfect spot for the mounts anyways... i layed a peace of 1/4 down and got it placed and tacted it to the crossmember. then i put my mounts on the motor including the bushing boted to the motor mount. then i took 2" x 1/4" strap and placed it so both sides were pretty simalar
in angle, even though one side was shorter then the other cause of the offfset. but there on the same angle. and tact them to the bushing using water to cool right after so i didnt melt the bushing. tore them apart once they were tact solid and removed the bushings then continued to tack in places so they would be sure to not move. after doing that. i traced the inside of the mount on each side in cardboard and drew up templates for the water jet to cut out so they will be completey boxed...then ill finish the trans mount. do figure out 4wd shifter and linkage. and then pull the motor. once thats out of the way while the plate that the motor mounts are on is still tacted to the frame ill drill 6 or so 1/2" holes in each plate so they will all line up when it goes back together.

 

what up gentelman.... so ffffff'ed myself or should i say the parts joint screwed me severely..... so the story begins.... walk into the parts joint friday order a 78 4wd steering box, dude says got one in stock be back in a min. get my pump and head for the house, saterday pound away get all the gussets and supports in holes drilled and pump on and mounted.... lookin at options for a high steer arm today and every 4wd drive pump i look at doesnt look like mine... the fdfvnfd,mdfnv,dfmv dvnvdfklvkl fdv;dfkjvdfk vfvkdnjvkdf fvkfv guy gave me a 2wd pump and its on amd mounted and stayin.... so theres my freak out for the afternoon.










on the positive side i got my tranny mount built and and the front mount for the spring pretty much finished... i might add one to the bottor between the two cups.











cupple picks of the tranny mount....











waiting on a few more picks to load to photobucket.... but theres a few for now...

 

Here is the real deal one more time for reference:

 

Ya maybe I should have been prayin.... I think the 2wd pump will be ok. Hopefully. Y

 

Been wondering how you've been doing that sucks about the parts store giving you the wrong box but atleast its in and hopefully works did you mount the radiator and core support to check for clearances I believe its a tight fit around them areas with a 4x4 frame and a 79 4x4 ps box from the swaps I've seen did you get any pics of your motor mounts what's the holes in the bottom of the trans crossmember for? anyone have a side by side pic of the 79 2wd and 4x4 ps boxs beside each other

 

What up little buddy. Yes. Yes I did... All clearences are checked. And ill get a bunch of motor mount picks. I'll get the motor out and take some to. If you go to eBay and search each it pull ether of them right up. And compare. Im still pist about the pump. Bit its in and I think its going to work well. And be plenty tuff. How's your rig commin together. Any progress. Oh and the holes are for the socket for the tranny bolts. It's on and turneb out great. Gonna take the cab back off this weekened or next and ill get more picks. Get the under side of the cab painted. Any one tried that lizzard skin heat protectant....

 

I take it the trans bolts right to the crossmember instead of having a rubber isolator un between the trans and crossmember? I'm reusing my stock crossmember and isolator mount from the np435 gives it the right motor tilt back and raises it off the crossmember that is right at the front of the bellhousing just need to drill 2 holes in the isolator mount because the nv4500 has a smaller bolt span for the mount then the np435 I'm half way done my motor mounts got the ones that bolt to the engine finished and half way done the passenger side frame mount then need to do the drivers side haven't got much done been busy buying some new tools and working on my other car finally getting back to this when I did have time it was to hot to go outside and work im thinking I might get the ps box in while the motors in so I can check clearances I'll get some pics and post them up either in a new thread or might put them in my spring swap thread

 

ya post them up.... lookin forward to see them and ya i went with the rubber mount inbetween the trans and crossmember thats what the two large holes in the bottom of the crossmember are for the bolts go through the top and the nuts are inside the tube. so i went with a 7/8 hole on the underside so i can get the socket up there and yep and put together and tacted up on the frame its holding it own weight... once i get the cab off ill get it all welded and maybe a few gussets. ya get thing goin lookin forward to seeing progress....

 

I don't have any experience using the lizard skin undercoating but others said it is good stuff I believe Chasetruck is going to use it on his cab don't know if you've seen his build thread in the engine swap forum check it out great stuff in there ill be cutting out the mounts now that I have the templates made when I get off work for the passenger side hoping to beat the heat and start early morning calling for 95 degrees today hoping to get them done so I can pull my motor out before I pull my front axle and sell it so I don't have as much weight on the front end got some leads on some Dana 60's going to try making a deal on one

 

Right on. Good deal. And ya it in the 90s here to today. The rest of the week as well. I will go check it out. I'm gonna call a few places today get some prices. I think the only dealer in utah is napa I think though. And ya get that 60. And I don't blame u for wanting to get the cummins weight off the front. Good thinkin.

 

That thing is gonna be awesome...But are you planning on jumping it or something? I dont think the boxing of the frame is needed...lol..That main part of the frame looks like its about 8 inches deep... between the front and rear axle. I have 2 highboys at my house 72 reg cab 77 reg cab. between the axles it is 7 inches deep and out over the rear it narrows up to about 5.75. The regular cab 2wd 250s like my friends two trucks were a 6 inch main rail 4.5 over the rear axle and 4 out the back.

I guess a little extra insurance never hurt anything. but I do know one thing for sure is that you will never have an issue with it holding up to abuse.

And one more thing did you ever consider plating the outside of the frame instead of boxing it? I notice that is what most tow truck or wrecker unfitting shops do to fords.

Cant wait to see this thing done though.

 

No... I never considered doin the out side of the frame. Though I do know what your talking about. And its not a bad idea. I would think the out side of the frame would work as well as the inside..... Good thought. And no no no. No jumping... Well .one intended. The cummins that's going into the Ford is gonna be pushing 550 600 HP that's right around 1350 torque... The truck is only going to be used to pull the camper and toys around I just thought why I had it all blasted and was working on the frame anyways I would box it for the twist factor. And like you said the frame is pretty stout on its own in the thicker parts of the frame I was cutting steal 10 inches to fill the hole if i remember right. I know I should never have a twisting issue now its way overdone. But i have herd horror storries of diesel conversions twisting truck frames I just didn't want to have that problem. It's such an old frame I would never find another specially being a long bed. And thank ya.... I need to get my a$$ in gear and update the build. I have a tone more picks and some progress made. Thanks again.

 

I bet it will work great for what you are doing with it...lol. I dont think ill ever take the time to box any of my frames(Ive thought about it before). I have considered double plating. I like them to be able to twist a bit, nature of the c channel design. The major thing I have against boxed frames is its a place to capture dirt and mud or road salts in the winter. But if you live in a dry climate who cares...I have always liked these frames the 67-77 highboy frame and this one were almost identical. They have minimal twist for a c channel design as compared to the 80s and 90s fords. I think it has to do alot with the cab mounts being located out side the frame rail. And better steel along with more quality cross members. The trucks of the good old days, got to love em. Im looking forward to seeing more pic of it.