fuel tank selector valve
#1
#3
If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.
I had the same problem with my 87 F-150 and the in-tank fuel pump was the problem not the reservoir or switch.
Install a new fuel pump/sending unit in the rear tank.
#4
#5
The Duel Function Reservoir is located on the drivers side frame rail before the high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter.
If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.
I had the same problem with my 87 F-150 and the in-tank fuel pump was the problem not the reservoir or switch.
Install a new fuel pump/sending unit in the rear tank.
If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.
I had the same problem with my 87 F-150 and the in-tank fuel pump was the problem not the reservoir or switch.
Install a new fuel pump/sending unit in the rear tank.
I've changed the Duel Function Reservoir, high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter in the past.
Your saying there's NO selector valve?
#6
Location as said above is on the drivers side frame rail under the bed:
Fuel tank selector valve:
Fuel layout:
Not true, just because the gauge part of the switch is working does not mean the pump side is making contact with both contacts.
The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
The wiring:
/
Fuel tank selector valve:
Fuel layout:
The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
The wiring:
/
#7
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#8
SubFord makes a good point about the contacts in the switch not making a connection. I have not run into this personally, but it makes sense.
The fastest way to make sure your in-tank pump is working or not is to ground the #6 pin on the EEC self-test plug like subford post above. When you ground this pin, which ever tank (front or rear) is selected inside the cab is which pump should come on.
#9
Right, there is no selector valve only the DFR. You have a selector switch in the cab which switches power to the fuel pump in the selected tank (either front or rear). The DFR is switched by the pressure created by the in-tank pump that is energized.
SubFord makes a good point about the contacts in the switch not making a connection. I have not run into this personally, but it makes sense.
The fastest way to make sure your in-tank pump is working or not is to ground the #6 pin on the EEC self-test plug like subford post above. When you ground this pin, which ever tank (front or rear) is selected inside the cab is which pump should come on.
SubFord makes a good point about the contacts in the switch not making a connection. I have not run into this personally, but it makes sense.
The fastest way to make sure your in-tank pump is working or not is to ground the #6 pin on the EEC self-test plug like subford post above. When you ground this pin, which ever tank (front or rear) is selected inside the cab is which pump should come on.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9895/valveinside.jpg
Showing the 2 valves and diaphragm.
#10
I see your point/view on the valves. Dealing with these trucks, when someone is talking about a fuel selector valve, I think of the newer electric fuel switching valves and not the older DFR's that are in this model truck.
I do agree that the DFR is the switching valve for the duel tanks, but that is not its proper name and I just do not want to confuse anyone with the wrong wording of part names.
#11
Location as said above is on the drivers side frame rail under the bed:
Not true, just because the gauge part of the switch is working does not mean the pump side is making contact with both contacts.
The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
The wiring:
/
Not true, just because the gauge part of the switch is working does not mean the pump side is making contact with both contacts.
The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
The wiring:
/
SUBFORD, this EEC self-test plug is it homemade or can you elaborate more on the self-test please, Cause there is continuity between contacts 2-4 & 2-6?
#12
So if pin #6 is shorted to ground the fuel pumps should run if the key is on.
If you connect pin #4 through a test light to the POS side of the battery it will flash out the codes if the STI wire is grounded and the key is turned on.
If you short pin #4 to pin #2 with the key on you can and will burn up the circuit inside the computer and it will no longer give out codes.
No there is nothing homemade, the self-test plug was made to plug into the STAR tester but there are a lot of after market testers out there to give you the codes.
A diagram with the ground paths shown (pin #2) (J1-46):
A diagram with the MIL (pin #4) shown (J1-17):
/
#13
See the link in my signature below for info on how to run the self tests and retrieve codes. I also have a writeup on the dual tank switching system.
#14
Thanks klricks but, unable to open this link I keep receiving a 'Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage', I'd like to view it.
#15