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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old 03-31-2012, 04:59 PM
epdukes13 epdukes13 is offline
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fuel tank selector valve

Where do I find the fuel tank selector valve on an 87' F150, 5L, V8, 2WD?

The problem I'm having is that I switch to the rear tank, the fuel gauge indicates correct level but the front tank level is the one that is going down!
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:51 PM
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Bad fuel pump in or selector switch to rear fuel tank.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epdukes13 View Post
Where do I find the fuel tank selector valve on an 87' F150, 5L, V8, 2WD?

The problem I'm having is that I switch to the rear tank, the fuel gauge indicates correct level but the front tank level is the one that is going down!
The Duel Function Reservoir is located on the drivers side frame rail before the high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter.

If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.

I had the same problem with my 87 F-150 and the in-tank fuel pump was the problem not the reservoir or switch.

Install a new fuel pump/sending unit in the rear tank.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:10 PM
epdukes13 epdukes13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
Bad fuel pump in or selector switch to rear fuel tank.
The switch works fine, hoping the fuel pump is OK, thats why I'm looking for where the valve is located.

Do you know where it is located?
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter72 View Post
The Duel Function Reservoir is located on the drivers side frame rail before the high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter.

If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.

I had the same problem with my 87 F-150 and the in-tank fuel pump was the problem not the reservoir or switch.

Install a new fuel pump/sending unit in the rear tank.

I've changed the Duel Function Reservoir, high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter in the past.

Your saying there's NO selector valve?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:37 AM
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Location as said above is on the drivers side frame rail under the bed:

Fuel tank selector valve:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Fuel layout:
Click the image to open in full size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter72 View Post
If the tank readings are showing correctly on both tanks when you flip the switch, then the switch should be working correctly.
Not true, just because the gauge part of the switch is working does not mean the pump side is making contact with both contacts.

The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Click the image to open in full size.

Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
Click the image to open in full size.

The wiring:
Click the image to open in full size./
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:00 AM
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I took out the troublesome Ford dual function reservoir (non electric tank switch valve) and replaced it with an electric switching valve. See writeup link in my signature.
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http://home.budget.net/~klricks/F150/Ford86F150.html
(OBD1 code reading and fuel system info)
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epdukes13 View Post
I've changed the Duel Function Reservoir, high pressure fuel pump and fuel filter in the past.

Your saying there's NO selector valve?
Right, there is no selector valve only the DFR. You have a selector switch in the cab which switches power to the fuel pump in the selected tank (either front or rear). The DFR is switched by the pressure created by the in-tank pump that is energized.

SubFord makes a good point about the contacts in the switch not making a connection. I have not run into this personally, but it makes sense.

The fastest way to make sure your in-tank pump is working or not is to ground the #6 pin on the EEC self-test plug like subford post above. When you ground this pin, which ever tank (front or rear) is selected inside the cab is which pump should come on.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter72 View Post
Right, there is no selector valve only the DFR. You have a selector switch in the cab which switches power to the fuel pump in the selected tank (either front or rear). The DFR is switched by the pressure created by the in-tank pump that is energized.

SubFord makes a good point about the contacts in the switch not making a connection. I have not run into this personally, but it makes sense.

The fastest way to make sure your in-tank pump is working or not is to ground the #6 pin on the EEC self-test plug like subford post above. When you ground this pin, which ever tank (front or rear) is selected inside the cab is which pump should come on.
Kinda confusing but the DFR -IS- a selector valve. As you said it works in conjunction with the in-tank pumps. Here is a photo of the inside of my old DFR ('86)
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9895/valveinside.jpg
Showing the 2 valves and diaphragm.
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http://home.budget.net/~klricks/F150/Ford86F150.html
(OBD1 code reading and fuel system info)
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klricks View Post
Kinda confusing but the DFR -IS- a selector valve. As you said it works in conjunction with the in-tank pumps. Here is a photo of the inside of my old DFR ('86) Showing the 2 valves and diaphragm.

I see your point/view on the valves. Dealing with these trucks, when someone is talking about a fuel selector valve, I think of the newer electric fuel switching valves and not the older DFR's that are in this model truck.

I do agree that the DFR is the switching valve for the duel tanks, but that is not its proper name and I just do not want to confuse anyone with the wrong wording of part names.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:08 PM
epdukes13 epdukes13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
Location as said above is on the drivers side frame rail under the bed:




Not true, just because the gauge part of the switch is working does not mean the pump side is making contact with both contacts.

The pump side is more likely to go bad then the gauge side as in the photo below:
Click the image to open in full size.

Make sure you have power to the pump before changing it out by grounding pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug and turning on the key:
Click the image to open in full size.

The wiring:
/
Great guys, thanks, I do have the mechanical selector switch/DFR.
SUBFORD, this EEC self-test plug is it homemade or can you elaborate more on the self-test please, Cause there is continuity between contacts 2-4 & 2-6?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epdukes13 View Post
Great guys, thanks, I do have the mechanical selector switch/DFR.
SUBFORD, this EEC self-test plug is it homemade or can you elaborate more on the self-test please, Cause there is continuity between contacts 2-4 & 2-6?
Pin #2 is the same as ground but the ground circuit passes through the Computer.
So if pin #6 is shorted to ground the fuel pumps should run if the key is on.
If you connect pin #4 through a test light to the POS side of the battery it will flash out the codes if the STI wire is grounded and the key is turned on.
If you short pin #4 to pin #2 with the key on you can and will burn up the circuit inside the computer and it will no longer give out codes.

No there is nothing homemade, the self-test plug was made to plug into the STAR tester but there are a lot of after market testers out there to give you the codes.

A diagram with the ground paths shown (pin #2) (J1-46):
Click the image to open in full size.

A diagram with the MIL (pin #4) shown (J1-17):
Click the image to open in full size.

/
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83 F150 Flare Side 351W AOD
77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:41 PM
klricks klricks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epdukes13 View Post
Great guys, thanks, I do have the mechanical selector switch/DFR.
SUBFORD, this EEC self-test plug is it homemade or can you elaborate more on the self-test please, Cause there is continuity between contacts 2-4 & 2-6?
See the link in my signature below for info on how to run the self tests and retrieve codes. I also have a writeup on the dual tank switching system.
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1986 F150 XL - Short Bed - 5.0 (302) EFI - AOD - 4x4 - 31x10.5x15 - ARB Air Locker - Flowmaster dual out.
http://home.budget.net/~klricks/F150/Ford86F150.html
(OBD1 code reading and fuel system info)
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:43 AM
epdukes13 epdukes13 is offline
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Originally Posted by klricks View Post
See the link in my signature below for info on how to run the self tests and retrieve codes. I also have a writeup on the dual tank switching system.
Thanks klricks but, unable to open this link I keep receiving a 'Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage', I'd like to view it.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:52 AM
klricks klricks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epdukes13 View Post
Thanks klricks but, unable to open this link I keep receiving a 'Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage', I'd like to view it.
What version of IE? My IE version 8 works but I mostly use Firefox so maybe try a different browser.
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1986 F150 XL - Short Bed - 5.0 (302) EFI - AOD - 4x4 - 31x10.5x15 - ARB Air Locker - Flowmaster dual out.
http://home.budget.net/~klricks/F150/Ford86F150.html
(OBD1 code reading and fuel system info)
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:52 AM
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