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Old 03-30-2012, 08:04 PM
Joel Barger Joel Barger is offline
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Question Proportioning Valve 77 F150 & Weak Brakes

So I'm helping my father in law with his 77 ford. It has weak brakes. I have no idea what I'm doing with this thing but we've replaced the master cylinder booster and figuring on moving onto the proportioning block. Now I'm familiar with the after market type blocks that I had on my 51 F1 So I slid under and took a look and low and behold there seems to be a proportioning valve. I looked up on the NAPA site and they have zero listings for a replacement block. Question is am I barking up the right tree? Front and Rear pads have wear but not in any kind of shape that would warrant such behavior. I'll have some pictures posted later on to show what I've been looking at.


Thanks Guys!
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:10 PM
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I'm pretty sure that Bronco Graveyard sells the proportioning valve you're looking for.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:33 PM
Joel Barger Joel Barger is offline
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That Picture...

Thanks Maulmaul,

I'll check em out and here's that picture i promised.

Click the image to open in full size.


hopefully you guys can see this picture.

One other thing... I noticed that there was a wire hanging down that seemed to plug into the top of the valve. This doesn't seem to be a good thing that he's just hanging down there like that. Perhaps it's just a matter of plugging him back into his rightful place and we're back in business? And one other question... what does that wire tie into? Seems to be some sort of senor of some sort... but for what?

Last edited by Joel Barger; 03-30-2012 at 08:35 PM. Reason: more info...
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:50 PM
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Here is the link that I think might help. If it isn't exactly what you need, just look around the site. I'm sure they will have something close.

Aftermarket Pro Valve
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:09 PM
Joel Barger Joel Barger is offline
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Actually I was looking at the same exact part about 20 minutes ago. It does seem to be very close to what is on there now. Jeg's has something similar but they want 150$ for theirs and I'm sure it was never meant for this application. Once again thanks! Any Idea what that wire is that runs off the top of it?
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Barger View Post
Actually I was looking at the same exact part about 20 minutes ago. It does seem to be very close to what is on there now. Jeg's has something similar but they want 150$ for theirs and I'm sure it was never meant for this application. Once again thanks! Any Idea what that wire is that runs off the top of it?
I can't give you a for sure answer, but my Painless wiring harness came with a wire that is labeled "Proportioning Valve", so I would assume it has to do with the brake light in the dash, but that is just a guess.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:24 PM
Joel Barger Joel Barger is offline
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Smile

Yep I would have to say you're probably right. I did a little scrounging around and found identical valves for GM applications (save the fitting sizes) on the speedway site is nice enough to include the installation instructions in a pdf for download right off their product page. I followed the links given and it seems to tie into the idiot light on the dash. If that's the case then that wire dangling off the top isn't doing us any favors as far as having weak brakes. I think he's gonna order one and and we'll toss it on there and see what develops. Once again Maulmaul. Much appreciated!
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Barger View Post
Yep I would have to say you're probably right. I did a little scrounging around and found identical valves for GM applications (save the fitting sizes) on the speedway site is nice enough to include the installation instructions in a pdf for download right off their product page. I followed the links given and it seems to tie into the idiot light on the dash. If that's the case then that wire dangling off the top isn't doing us any favors as far as having weak brakes. I think he's gonna order one and and we'll toss it on there and see what develops. Once again Maulmaul. Much appreciated!
No problem what so ever. Now that you know what you're looking for, I would at least google the part to see if you can find it cheaper. It never hurts to try. Good luck. If you can't find it cheaper, I will say that Bronco Graveyard has been excellent to deal with in my experiences with them. I have placed several orders form large amounts to a $3.00 fitting and never had a problem.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:39 PM
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What you have is a combination valve which includes, proportioning, metering, pressure limiting and system failure warning light. The item at the Bronco site is a good replacement.

The electrical switch on top of the unit is engaged when the pressure limiting spool kicks to one side due to a hydraulic leak on either the front axle or rear axle brake system. The switch turns on your dash brake warning light.

The vehicles poor barking could be that the pressure differential spool kicked to one side at some point (including bleeding) but due to the age of the unit it stuck on one side. We used to have that happen occasionally with older test vehicles.

Be aware that when you start to loosen the line nuts from the old valve you may start to have more issues then just the valve. First make sure you are using line wrenches to try to prevent stripping the nuts, but even then that doesn't always work. Plus the nuts can become very rusted onto the lines.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:44 PM
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Can you describe in more detail the "weak brakes"
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Barger View Post
So I'm helping my father in law with his 77 ford. It has weak brakes. I have no idea what I'm doing with this thing but we've replaced the master cylinder booster and figuring on moving onto the proportioning block.
Try this during bleeding, from the factory manual, on the front of the proportioning valve:
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:45 AM
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I am having some issues with wrapping up a disc brake conversion on my f100; the disc brakes are from a 79 bronco as is the proportioning valve and the master cylinder. Basically what I have is the entire bronco braking system with exception of the rear brake cylinders which I suspect are very similar to the bronco but are in fact unconverted from the f100.

To summarize my problem I have to pump the brakes a few times to get any pressure. Once I have pressure, the braking is very effective. As soon as I let off the pressure is gone and it goes back to the 2 - 3 rapid pumps to get pressure again.

I believe I can rule out the master cylinder; I have been through three different units, bench bled them all numerous times. I have also checked the individual wheels and the lines for leaks; everything checks out.

This basically leaves only the proportioning valve as prime suspect. Could the symptoms I described be caused by a bad proportioning valve? I don't want to waste my money on a new valve if its not the issue.

Also, in terms of replacing the valve, are there any performance advantages the aftermarket valve has over EOM other than price?

Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by crazy96863 View Post
~~~ I have to pump the brakes a few times to get any pressure. Once I have pressure, the braking is very effective.

This basically leaves only the proportioning valve as prime suspect.~~~
Either you still have air in the lines or your rear brake shoes are out of adjustment or both.

With the rears adjusted:
Make a clip to hold the P-pin out.
Bench bleed the master. (describe the method used. Some manufactures provide a cheap new "plug it" method which doesn't work)
Bleed the R-rear first, then the L-rear, R-front, followed by the L-front.

It takes two people and/or bleeding equipment to do this right. I doubt it is the proportioning valve.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:09 PM
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I considered the rear brake adjustment issue and checked; actually found a blown wheel cylinder which wasn't helping. Fixed this, cleaned and Adjusted both sides until they created a bit of drag... the ebrake will actually hold the truck in place now.

I bought the fittings and some clear hose for the bench bleeding. I repeated this process several times off the truck and on simply using the brake pedal. I installed the master cylinder and have bled and rebled at least a dozen or more times the entire truck in the order you posted (LR, RR, LF, RF) with no real change. Yes the pin was pulled out the entire time; I actually found that using a zip tie works really well to do this... Simply tighten around the pin when the visegrips have extended it.

The previous drum brake system that was on this had firm brake pressure even when I knew it had air in the lines. I am not saying this was ok but I can be reasonably certain than I have been way more thorough than what was and it doesn't work.

Been working on bleeding daily for a week and getting really frustrated. Never heard of bleeding being such a freaking nightmare.

Suggestions are very welcome.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:37 PM
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What about the push rod adj?
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