Hey guys,

Need to find interest level to see if this is somthing everyone wants!

I am planning on getting Ruff Stuff or a local shop to cnc parts for a sterling kit that would allow the use of the Dana 60 rear disk brakes. El Dorado brake systems are hard to find and unreliable. I figure there are enough E350 with rear disks out there to supply better pars and a better drum brake (inside rear disk). Especially for those of us with 5spds that need an ebrake. Line locks are not legal or really a safe option for long term use, and drive line brakes cost a ton!

Here is somthing like what i'm thinking. http://www.fordmann.com/F350.rear_disc_brakes.htm

Please vote in the poll so i can see what interest there is a decent rear disk system that includes a reliable ebrake. Bolt-on or weld-on I don't know yet...

GO VOTE!

 

I know there are several out there who have accomplished this in various ways on their own in the past, but I do agree with the premise that since there are so many E-Series vans out there this would a good basis upon which to build a reliable and economical conversion. Could it also be done by using the components from the semi-floating axles under the E250s? Or does anyone already know if the needed components would be the same? This would vastly increase the pool of suitable donor axles.

Parenthetically, this is on my mind and front burner at the moment since, once again, the [front] shoe retaining springs and clips on not just one but both wheels on my 95 crew cab have failed. This after a repair a few short months ago.

dn.

 

How about just use a 10.5 axle and have the lug holes modified to the 8 on 6.5" pattern
10.5 SuperDuty Rear Hubs to 8 on 6.5 - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

I really cant see the hub machining costing more than $50 a piece + studs. And the 99-04 axle are pretty cheap, because they are plenty full

 

Are they the same width axle brad?

Seems like I can find a the HD 10.25 Sterling LSD around here for $100 or less b/c the 87-96 trucks are getting 16-25 years old now. Axles are very easy to find and very inexpensive around here... Guess this depends on where you live and how good you are at digging for one too.

IS the 10.5 a bolt in with rear disks on the 87-96? Also what do the 99-04's use for e-brakes? I have a manual and need the ebrake to let my truck run and warm up during the winter...

 

10.5 from a 99-04 is the same width. 05+ are wider.
Spring perch width is the same as a OBS. The SD 10.5 used a Hat style rotor just like the vans do for an e-brake.

Another option is using the van D60 or D70 and just welding on spring perches where you needed them. Unless you have a Hopped up big block or diesel the D60 /70 is plenty strong

 

So you just buy 99-04 10.5, have the lugs modified, and buy some E350 rear rotors and you bolt it all in... I'm sure theres a few details like brake lines and hooking up the ebrake cables but nothing a weekend, some tools, and a welder couldn't accomplish...

Only problem is you still probably have to tear down the axles to swap in 10.25 3.55 gears... I wish someone would just make some CNC D60 axle flanges so you could just cut the 10.25 flanges off and use the spindles and everything else from the D60...

 

You can always use Blackbird disc brakes, but from my understanding they suck.

My question to you is WHY? What is wrong with the drum brakes, I an lock mine up at will and have towed NUMEROUS times with no trailer brakes with no issues

 

drums work fine.if your having issues,it's probably time for new shoes and or hardware.
it's not as if we're always replacing brake shoes or anything.id focus on other,more important issues/upgrades that these older trucks can use besides something that gives no common issues.
for example,if your looking for "real" brake performance increase,swap in hydroboost brakes.now that's a real upgrade in stopping power that you'll feel.

 

Already done. Would highly recommend it. But what is the benefit of "locking up" your brakes? While the rear drums on these trucks have proven serviceable enough the all-too-frequent failures of the Rube Goldberg mechanism of these drum units is reason enough to consider the change to discs.

dn.

 

I would rather have drum brakes that work 98% of the time than disc brakes that work 0% of the time CORRECLTY. It has been proven time and time again that the drum brakes(when adjusted correctly) will outstop the half assed disc brake setup. You also have to remember, these trucks are setup as a 75/25 brake system. that means 75% of the stopping force is done by the front rakes and 25% is done by the rear.

Just bolting on disc brakes dont work, You need to change the master cyl, proportion valve and have the CORRECT calipers and rotors

 

Totally in agreement, but if drums were superior the industry would not have been engaged these past four decades in a continuous march [I]away[I] from drums. So, if someone reads this thread and draws from it that anyone is suggesting a "half a**ed" conversion I would ask that someone to STOP. For those who like their drum setups - enjoy. But for those on this - and many other forums - who are avid wrenchers in search of improving their vehicles press on! Share those "this worked for me" as well as the "this didn't work for me" stories. Not every wrencher's skills or needs are the same. But is it not great that all can share their thoughts and experiences here?

dn.

 

The ONLY reason the industry went to disc brakes is for EASE of assembly on the assembly line. Just like EVERYTHING went to sealed bearings. Easier and FASTER to assemble. If disc brakes were so good on trucks, dont you thing 18 wheelers would have them?

 

Disc brakes in the American market first appeared on higher end vehicles, as an option then as standard. As to ease of assembly - I agree. That is not necessarily bad. As I noted in my earlier post, if you like your rear drums - keep them. But many on these forums are tinkerers - always seeking improvements; the heirs of the mantle of the hotrodders and others for whom "good enough" just isn't.

Now, regarding those unit bearings - ugh! I am in apparent agreement with you there. Give me a good rebuildable unit any day!

dn.

 

Rear drums do have one huge disadvantage over discs - if you have to cross water that's deeper than the bottom of the drum, water WILL get in it, and it doesn't just immediately drain out (as much as you'd think it would). Until the water drains out, you have no rear brakes.

Haul a boat to the ramp? Go offroad somewhere that isn't a desert? Use your truck to deal with urban flooding? Live in a hurricane zone? Then you might maybe want to dump the drums and go disc.

Also, unit bearings weren't just adopted for ease of production line assembly but because of techs, even dealer techs, putting together a bearing assembly wrong (see all the advice here about "meh, just use a punch to torque the nuts for your spindle bearings"), having it come apart (usually at speed) and the maker getting wrongfully sued.

 

I have not had good luck with the integrated e-brake inside the rotor. In my experience they just don't work well.