sorry its a 9.75 it looks like by the diff bolt pattern. there is conventional rear end. traction loc, and electronic locking diff available!

looks like for the conventional rear end there are some special tools that aren't necessary they just make the job easier. (drivers to install bearings, pullers, automatic too that hold the side gears in while you instal the pinion gears.)

the traction loc diff has a special tool to measure clutch pack clearance and is defiantly needed for assembly otherwise thing wont work right with the wrong clearances.

the electronic diff looks easy to set up and has less tools then the conventional one. looks like it works like a traditional open rear end with a locking ability.

 

I would be surprised if any Ecoboost F150s are 8.8 rear.

 

some base model ones could be. you never know unless you know!

 

As Far as it being a very expensive truck... More than a bucket of bolts I guess but less than it would cost me to restore it to 100% Original.

Remember I paid 3250.00 for an entire 2011 EcoBoost. A lot of parts I can sell or trade. I chose the red truck over the blue truck for the price diff. I paid 300.00 for the red truck and 2400.00 for the blue truck. I did not clarify but there is no way I would have this drivetrain in this truck without it looking brand new paint wise. The blue truck is nice but its 47yrs old too. The red truck will make a better truck in the end. The plan is to get it all together and things working the way I want then tear it apart for paint. The chassis will be done hopefully the 1st time around.

I did mention in another post I cannot stand the gray interior. I had a thought of using it just to get the truck going but after setting the 2011 seat into the 66 it flat out will not work, too large to look good. Weight is also a biggie for the end result so a stock bench or Ranger style buckets will probably happen.

Once I get the dash out of the 2011 I will know better which route I will go with for dash setup. I would like to make it appear as close to stock as I can. But to save $$ where I can is important too. This is far from a whatever it costs build but how cheap can I build a ecoboost truck and still make it look good, handle good and perform great. In hindsight I probably should have just built my own chassis for it but again the sensors etc in the 2011 do not allow me to do that without a stand alone computer setup which ford nor anyone else for that matter makes yet.\

This would be a completely different truck if I had unlimited $$. So no it will not be near perfect but probably will not see too many Slicks with ecoboost power on the road for a while. At least I am not aware of anyone else building one . . .

 

All EcoBoost F150's came with the 9.75 Rear Axle. New ones not avail with traction loc only the electronic locked units or a open.

This truck came stock with a 3.15 open unit. I may add a traction loc at a later date. 1st thing is to get it driveable.

Just call this the prototype EcoSlick. Unknown if it will ever all work out but giving it my best attempt with limited $$

 

sounds like a good compromise and clears some things up. sorry for the suggestions didn't know your situation. but that all makes lots of sense.

your seat set up sounds good. just to let you know what i got (good story) i headed to my favorite junkyard and found 2 elite 1100 series seats from summit racing in a 68 f100 for 50 bucks. went home and found each one goes for almost 300 bucks a piece. you never know what will show up and change your mind with all this. i originally planned different.

 

Its difficult to put in words what I am up against here. About gave my Freightliner semi away just to make this happen.

This is for sure not a BOLT in . . . LOL
My plans are written in sand on the beach with a big storm brewing!
Every day I dig deeper the plans again change. I basically took no measurements just decided I wanted a ecoboost powered slick and what was easiest and cheapest way to get there.

I want a Slick that I can hop in every day as a daily driver without costing me a fortune. To restore a slick thats almost free will still cost 20k in the end and thats without a new A/C system. Here in AZ A/C is pretty much mandatory for a old fart like me.

 

A few update pics:

Looks like hood clearance to Intercooler Tubes is going to be a tight one,
Yes I can always make new ones but trying to keep as much '11 eco as I can.

What is as much shocking as cab mounts lining up is the steering column lines up too. Remove coupler flange from the 66 column and it would probably slide into the eco shaft!

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After removal of 2011 Eco Dash Assy it now looks very unlikely this project is going to work out as I had hoped. On a extended cab or crew cab it would be much different. The eco dash is a MONSTER to say the least.

At this point it just does not seem possible That I can get all this wiring and electronics to work in the tiny '66 Cab and still maintain a proper Air Conditioning system. I had plans on using the Eco A/C unit as its all tied together but the 66 Dash comes up way short.

Not saying I have given up 100% but better than 80%.

If I had extra $$ maybe but the funds just are not there to buy another off brand A/C unit and try to adapt it to this truck under the dash with all the other junk.

I think FoMoCo needs to come out with a stand alone harness to simplify things.

After pulling the dash assy a chore in itself then seeing how much stuff was still in truck. The project turned from BIG to "H U G E M O N G O U S" Really dont care if that is a real word . . .

One of the biggest challenges is the fly by wire throttle assy. It takes up an awful lot of room as does the adjustable pedal assy.

The '66 Cab and floor is in such great shape I really hate to chop it all up only to find out everything will not work anyway. Sure did not think I would be packing it in so early on this project.

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Dont shelve it just yet. Just keep thinking.

 

Don't give up !

I was looking forward to you building this project after you've been hinting that you're thinking about this. Since I don't have the means to start a project much less have a truck yet... I want to read & see other peoples projects for some ideas & help.

 

Did not sleep so well last night . . . Will just have to see what that 20% will do.
Getting to old to be able to move around that well, the arthritis in neck, hands & back are not helping much either. It takes me forever to be able to even climb inside one of these trucks and even longer to get back up and crawl out.

I am sure hoping a light will turn on and give me an idea of where to go from here. So many HUGE obstacles kind of doubtful right now.

Because of all the electronics having to work makes it difficult also. If there was a way to bypass some of this stuff with a Ford swap harness...

I also hit a very HUGE snag in '66 cab floor height that it just never rang my bell until yesterday. Kind of a no no in build land is having the frame stick down below the rocker panel.

This was supposed to be a fairly quick project just to make it driveable until I could finish my orange F100 Project. Once the Orange Truck was done then I planned on tearing the eco-slick apart to paint it. Something that I did not want to do is take the time to build an entire new chassis.

Had there been a stand alone harness avail for the eco I would have just transplanted the engine and trans from eco into the '66. That way it would have been sooooo much lighter to keep the stock 66 frame, trans and rear axle. The 11 Eco frame is a monster and probably weighs at least double the 66 frame, the 9.75 eco rear axle is a monster compared to the 9". Not sure how much the 3.5L eco weighs but know the eco trans is at least 225lbs !


If I had someone who wanted this '66 Floor and would help drill out the gazillion spot welds . . . . I just do not see myself doing that. Cutting up the cherry floor and cab corners is not something I want to do either.

Right now I am pretty much out of magic wands . . . Turn the clock back 20yrs in age and I would be all over it.

Another obstacle is my garage is too small. The $$ I had from Semi should have gone towards building a larger garage, that was spent on this truck.. .

 

Don't get discouraged, this is a neat truck and I'll be honest and say you make it look easy. Keep it up

 

what about the width of the dash? is it wider then the 66 cab? id imagine you could cut the firewall and floor out of the 11 and weld it into the 66. I understand not wanting to cut the 66 cab up but you were bound to hit something that wasn't going to be easy. sounds like that thing it the interior with the way you want to do it. so you have other options that are easier. Why not mount the 11 column on the 66 dash and mount the Instrument cluster in the 66 dash and literally zip tie everything else under the 66 dash that spiders out of the instrument cluster and other modules? Ive got a friend with a 55 Chevy truck with a tuned port engine in it from a corvette. he has all the corvette modules zip tied under the dash. ugly but works and its still impressive swap. same concept.

this way you dont have to swap an 11 interior and you can keep the 66 interior your daughter likes so much!

 

Any reason you can't work on the orange truck while you wait out Ford's creating a stand alone wiring harness? I know it may take a year or two to come out and you're hot to trot on this project (who wouldn't be?) but I've gotta believe as this is Ford's engine of the future that a stand alone harness will be along sometime soon. How long did it take them to provide one for the 5.0 Coyote? Keep thinking' - you'll get there.