I'm getting ready to do my second bulletproof session on an 05 CC LB Lariat I picked up. My deltas are ok right now, but I'm gonna start collecting parts so I can do it when it's nice out and I don't freeze my *** in the garage like last time. I'm gonna do my own remote oil cooler/ filter as per my previous thread, new oil sump screen, EGR delete, IPR screen, stand pipes, dummy plugs, STC, 6.4 banjos, blue spring, Kitty goodbye, hi-idle mod,and a turbo cleaning. I'm kinda up in the air abt. something I did last time, the turbo drain tube, it didn't look all that much different than what I removed, can anyone chime in? Also something I didn't do , the turbo feed line, is is worth it, and also I read a post somewhere saying to use it you need a certain oil cooler housing? Is this true and is it worth it?

 

My thoughts on the oil feed tube are that if it has the flex part in it, vs the updated solid tube, when I tried to blow air though the old one with the flex part in it was way more restrictive. save yourself half the cost and buy the international one. I agree with ya on the drain tube, seemed like a waste of time. I think people are much more better off just switching to synthetic to protect the turbo journals more than that dumb tube. The hosing needed is MY dependent an 05 it is a direct replacement swap part it was only very few MY 03's 3-18-2003 and earlier they used a threaded style connection instead of the slip type.

 

I'm switching to Rotella full synthetic anyway. Maybe just go with the feed tube. My truck is 05 so should fit.

 

Oh forgot, new thermostat while in there, also is the up pipe worth the trouble or just cap off the original, I did it on my van but there was much more room. Also the larger down pipes, I don't know what's stock, but while it's apart should I put one in and if so what size and why?

 

If you are doing the egr delete, it should come with the new up-pipe that eliminates the scoop, as far as the down pipe the largest you can fit without modifying is 3.5" wanna say the factory is 3" then 3.5 " for the entirety with 4" systems the downpipe is increased to 3.5 then 4" for rest of the system. I would go with a 3.5 downpipe for ease of install, and added benefit of faster dropping egts

 

Well when I say EGR delete, I mean a total block off of coolant so I won't need a kit, so if I can just block the OE one with a disc, unless there is some added benefit to the SS up-pipes. And the down pipe,, I guess 3.5 is good, but if 4 is like the same price, is it worth it to do the mods to fit, what does it consist of, putting a dent in the firewall to fit like my old 7.3, then if I ever decided to put a new exhaust it would be there?

 

Do you have a link to a sample egr delete kit you want to use? Not 100% with the type you are referring. Is this the homemade kit where you place discs to block off the exhaust flow through the egr cooler, and then reroute coolant ? iMHO the egr delete kits for sale now are very cheap and include everything you need for less than 160. Amazon.com: 6.0L Ford F250, F350, F450, F550 Diesel EGR Valve Delete Kit: Automotive

This is the kit I used and the only thing I would change is the screw clamps I swapped out for spring clamps. And yes I remember reading people that installed 4" inch downpipes have to hammer the firewall to get it to fit. As far as the added benefit between 3.5and 4" is going to be up to be up to you, I didn't see the Need to modify for an extra .5" my egt's drop fast enough with 3.5

 

[quote=mtnxtreme800;11644239]Well when I say EGR delete, I mean a total block off of coolant so I won't need a kit, so if I can just block the OE one with a disc, unless there is some added benefit to the SS up-pipes. quote]

The factory up-pipe has a large scoop inside of it to direct exhaust flow to the egr cooler. If you're removing the egr, you want to replace the up-pipe for a less restrictive strait-through one.

 

Your EGT dropped with 3.5? maybe I don't need 4". And yes it's a homemade set-up, total block off of coolant and exhaust. The kit you are referring to deletes the EGR , but still allows coolant and exhaust flow, I want to get away from that.

 

[QUOTE=CowboyUp1387;11644384] Exactly thats what I was getting at. Last time I used a Custom Diesel SS up pipe,fit nicely, but it was in a van, real easy to get to, so now my F series looks pretty tight back there so was looking for a way around it, hell, bite the bullet and do it, I'll be that far already.

 

I think it is kind of symantics as far as egt's dropping, I replaced my stock exhaust system (which is 3" down pipe, then went to 3.5 from the cat on) with 4" mbrp turbo back off-road. This system utilizes a 3.5" downpipe that turns into 4" the rest of the way. If you go with 4" all the way (including the downpipe) you will need to modify the firewall is what I was told. With that being said my egt's didn't drop. They still hit 1200- 1300 when towing. What it did do is the egt's don't "hang" there as long as the used to, the new system cools down faster when I let off the throttle. It is one of those tricky things when talking about exhausts on these trucks, it is kind.of a misnomer that the 4" turbo backs are not really 4" turbo backs. You would see similar improvement just eliminating the cat and muffler with straight pipe and then it just gets better the larger you go as far as egr fall off time.