isnt one way to test thatt blow by to take the oil cap off and turn it upside down and set itt on the fill hole? I did that and it didnt hover off, no air was trying to push it off

 

also it doesnt blow white smoke when starting, it only does that when it shift hard.

 

where can I get an ebps?

 

Sean, dealer item only, you need to test it first by seeing the readings on diagnostic scanner, I really hate that you are throwing parts at this thing. You can try cleaning the EBPS and tube if you haven't done so, but this isn't going to help with the starting issues.

 

Ill try cleaning the EBPS and tube. so far the only part I am out possibly unnecesarily is the CPS (which means I now have a spare). So I am ok with that, talked with Zach and were gonna try and hook up the 'ole truck again shortly.

 

A spare CPS is always a good idea, even if isn't that good of a CPS. There is one in my door compartment. There has been what, 2 recalls, or 3 on these things. I bought a international brand and all my numbers and codes got better. Took the recall pc of crap and tossed it in my door. Did the same to my dads truck.

 

where did you you get an internatiol CPS? couldnt find one, or the ones I found were out of stock.

 

Have Zach compare the MAP and EBP readings. With KOEO they should be within a few tenths of each other. At sea level they should read close to 14.7 PSI, the ambient air pressure. If one is way off then it is most likely a bad sensor. On a test drive drive the EBP reading should range up and down with throttle input and hold pretty steady at a constant speed. At higher elevations the ambient air pressure is less and will be reflected in the MAP and EBP readings.

FYI: MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) is ambient air pressure plus boost pressure. If you want to see just boost pressure use the Manifold Gauge Pressure parameter. That is MAP minus ambient calculated by the PCM. Or just subtract the ambient from the MAP reading you got with KOEO.

At 5,000 ft my map is about 12.2 and EBP is about 12.0, KOEO. Close enough to believe both sensors are working properly.

At Idle my EBP is about 14.xx.

At WOT while still accelerating it will be about 45. This reading will vary by truck and conditions, as well as mods.

For a more precise test of these pressure sensors you can use compressed air and a good air pressure gauge. Hell, you can use a bicycle pump as long as you know the air pressure output.

 

International dealer and Ford Dealer have the same exact parts. If you buy a Ford CPS, it is marked with the International number on the CPS. International is usually cheaper. Online Ford Dealers will often sell the CPS for $17-$23 each.

P/N's are listed in this write up: https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...or-information

 

Wish i bought more from ED when he had them. Internet searches have came up short of buying more of the same.

 

Edit: BIG OOPS. I already posted this in this thread. Better twice than not at all, I guess.

This is the Ford part number for the dark blue INTL CPS (1876736C91) that Ken refers to in his CPS tests.

Don't let a dealership sell you a grey one.

 

In addition to the laundry list Cody mentioned, worn injectors can also cause some of your symptoms. You may not catch those with AE since you can only look at the rotational velocity numbers or run the CCT after the engine warms up and is sitting at idle. You could install a resistor in the EOT wiring plug to fool the engine into thinking it was warmed up and then watch the rotational velocity numbers when cold to see if anything looked different than when warm. You could also pull the valve covers and start the truck cold (no plugging in) to see if all 8 injectors are spitting the same amount of oil at idle.

I still think you should ignore the 3 & 8 "problems" you found with AE and keep digging. Don't forget to start with the basics like full and fresh engine oil, air and fuel filters in good shape, etc. Also, do you have any mods or tuners on the truck?

 

There's a way around that if you know how to tune for it.....

 

Interesting. Just the diagnostic part, right? You wouldn't want to fool with EOT on a cold engine and advance the timing too much I wouldn't think.

I imagine with the software you've got, you can see things that most of us can't. Of course that's ok, because most of us wouldn't understand what the heck it was we were seeing anyway.