I have just had an EGR Delete kit installed on my F-350. I have had a shop that I trust install this kit due to my lack of time to do it myself. I am having 2 problems.
1. The up pipe is not sealing against the turbo and causing an exhaust leak that you can hear. On the factory up pipe there was some flex and didn't seem to be a problem.

2. When they went to disassemble to remove everything to install the delete kit there was already 1 bolt out of 3 missing that bolt the turbo to the bracket. Now that the delete kit is installed the turbo is slightly "off" kelter so the up pipe will fit causing there to be only 1 bolt to fit into the turbo. If we move it anymore then none of the bolt holes will align although we might be able to seal the up pipe and eliminate the exhaust leak.

I'm looking to see if anyone else has ran into this problem before and can give me any insight as how to correct these problems. I am going to call the company that I bought the delete kit from in the morning to see what they say.

Thanks in advance,

Ben

 

I cant beleive the shop left it like that and whoever did it hasnt installed a turbo B4

What you describe is exactly how my turbo is

Basicly the turbo needs to be remounted

here is how I do it

Connect the ypipe to turbo get a good seal there even remove the Marmon clamp and smear antiseize on the Flanges of the clamp alittle slip n slide here goes along way. This joint must seal right. I find it easier to get this joint first and then push or pull Turbo whatever to line mount bolts up

Then get the turbo bolts to pedistall started and DO NOT loosen the the ypipe at all. It might need a push one way or other to line them up and start the bolt. This was tuff for me too as the ypipe connection throws it at a skew so Take a Bar or something and Make the mount bolts line up. I Jumped up in the moter and force it with my foot to line up.

Then do the Exhaust pipe last

the above works Great for me But Some start the bolts leave them loose then attach ypipe but if its too far out you will have a hardtime this way IMO

 

They called me today to go over w/ me the problems they were having. I am supposed to go over to the shop tomorrow late morning to talk to them and let them know if I found any fixes or other ways of getting this all to line up right.

The tech stated that when he dove into it he found the 1 bolt missing from the mount for the turbo. Form what he could tell it looked like the truck had never been apart before but who knows for sure. My worry is that if they cant get this aligned I am only going to be driving around with 1 bolt and an exhaust leak that, i only assume, is going to affect how the turbo performs.

I appreciate the info on how you made it all work. I will let them know tomorrow how you went about doing so. Also, whose delete kit do you install.

Ben

 

So your repair shop ir mechanics were relying in you to find a fix? What?! My thinking is that they are suppose to install the kit properly. Well i know that i would raise all hell before my truck would leave their shop or pay their bill. Is this a friend of yours thats a mechanic?

 

Missing turbo bolts and y-pipe alignment problems are actually pretty common complaints and aren't a big deal at all. The turbo gasket kit (3C3Z-9T514-AD $10) comes with gaskets, o-rings and bolts to replace the turbo. There are a couple of methods to replacing/realigining the y-pipe to turbo. Benny described one method. I personally like to loosen the y-pipe at both exhaust manifolds, align it at the back of the turbo and tighten that marmon clamp first then retighten at the manifolds because the manifolds use a ball joint type seal that's much more "flexible". If the tech twists and tweaks the y-pipe too much he'll crack the flex joints and you'll be out some more $$$.

 

i second this method, the thing that i did when i placed my delete kit, is to remove the passenger side wheel well cover which will give you easy peezy access to the up pipe to exhaust manifold bolts, on mine i just loosened the passenger side to exhaust manifold bolts only and that was enough to move the turbo onto the flange of the up pipe and tighten it down without loosening the uppipe to manifold it is a pita to line up IMHO

 

Well, this is a shop that's been around for quite awhile here in town. I've used them, along with other friends and family, and they have always done us right. They have always done great work and are 9 times out of 10 are the cheaper shop. I think the reason they are cheaper is they are honest and wont gouge you on their hours of labor.

I stopped in today and talked to them and showed the tech the few things that you guys said to try. ( I edited some of the negative stuff out so not to **** him off...yet) I got a little more detail as to what is going on. He stated that the leak is a small "pinhole" exhasut leak at the y-pipe where it meets the turbo. He asked if I would be ok with driving the truck a few days to see if the leak would seal w/ the expanding & contracting from the heating & cooling of the exhaust. We're both not real confident that this will work but he said he would like to give it a try. If it doesnt get any better then he said to bring it back in and they will tear it down and start over from that point. I expressed my concerns about the issues but decided to agree with driving it. I think we both know that I am going to be back at the shop for this. The main reason I went with it was b/c he's going easy on me w/ the cost of the work.

I will follow up with what I experience.


Ben

 

Go ahead and order the Y-pipe. On my EGR delete I had no leaks at the turbo and it was mounted with no bolts missing, BUT the flex part of the Y-pipe is subject to failure due to the heat over time. 1 week later, I had an exhaust leak on the Y-Pipe and another shop bill. I would recommend to anyone who is doing anything that moves the turbo do the Y-pipe if over 3-5 yrs old.

 

I'm not having any problems with the y-pipe itself. Its the connection at the turbo that won't line up properly. They actually broke the clamp trying to tighten it down thinking that was the problem. So a new clamp went on and they figured out that wasn't it.

I picked the truck up yesterday and drove it around. Sounds like a leaking high pressure air hose when you start to build boost. After driving it a bit and it warms up the hissing sound isn't as loud but it's definately still there.

I was wondering, with an all stock truck using the factory boost guage on the dash, what should I see for boost at WOT? This leak has to be affecting the boost, right?

As of now, I'm positive its not going to get any better so I will be taking it back. BTW, $480.00 for the install w/ a coolant flush after the EGR delete.


Ben

 

Oh ya it wont get better

It MUST be remounted and done right

This is one of them deals this Ypipe to turbo has to be DEAD ON THE MONEY if its off the clamp WONT suck it together

just one of those Deals has to be done Very specific once they figure it out they wont ever have this problem again

The Ypipe to turbo is the most Important Joint must seal and the thing is there is a Lip on Inside of the pipe that Must Line up before you clamp it

IMO the best way is to Get the ypipe to turbo joint first and then Push turbo till bolts line up

Who made the eger deleate kit

tell them to put antiseize on the clamp lips

If it leaks your MPG and Power will be down

 

picked the truck up yesterday and drove it around. Sounds like a leaking high pressure air hose when you start to build boost. After driving it a bit and it warms up the hissing sound isn't as loud but it's definately still there.

The guy is telling you there is a "pinhole" in the pipe where the Y-Pipe and turbo join. If it on the Y-pipe side it will only get worse, not seal off which is why I said go ahead and get a y-pipe. When they get down to correcting their error and line up the turbo the Y-pipe can be replaced then. x2 w/Benny on the loss of power and mpg. I could not pull out of a pothole when my pipe was leaking.

 

I'm on duty tomorrow and they are closed for the weekend so come monday I'm gonna call them and tell them it hasn't gotten any better and that it needs to come back in. It definitely dosnt have the power anymore and the turbo lag is ridiculous. Haven't driven it enough to know about fuel mileage but only common sense tells me that it's out the window.

I bought the EGR kit from River City Diesel. I talked to them about it and they have stated the same thing you all have. It's just takes some time and patience to get everything lined up right. They were "close" to where I live and I've read good things about them so I'm confident its not there parts. Actually, I just ordered some other stuff from them.

One day I'll have my truck back to normal!

 

When I stated "pinhole" I didn't mean the y-pipe itself actually had a hole. I just meant that the leak at the joint of the y-pipe-to-turbo is pinhole sized. In reality we all know it's bigger than that. When I was in yesterday to pick up the truck I ever asked them if there was a leak in the y-pipe and they said they went through it and didnt see anything. The y-pipe was relatively clean. They just keep saying that is seemed like something was torqued or tweaked and making it impossible to line up the pipe and the turbo mount all together.

 

Pretty Common EGR Deleate kit probably not the issue

is it the deleate kit that changes the passenger side uppipe out

I found it easier to get that Ypipe to turbo joint good first and same thing turbo mount bolts way off but then just pry turbo till you get a bolt started That one bolt was atleast 1/2inch off

If you start the bolts even leave them loose and then try Ypipe connection Basicaly you have to get 2 things to line up the turbo and ypipe not impossible just harder

 

OK brother, My bad. I have been shot so many times by repair shalops I am bad to try reading between the lines.
Good luck and God Bless
Eagleinms