Been having a problem finding the pin (60542-s) that keeps the pedal pivot shaft from coming out. Want it to be close to original. o.d. is .255 and length is around 1.5"

 

What year and model? I may have one if it's 48-52. Need to get home to look up the part number in the parts manual.

 

its a '49, p/n 60542-s (obsolete)

 

John,
A friendly suggestion: Put the year and model of your truck in your profile and even in your signature, as well as your location so people don't have to search or ask for that info each time. Next when you start a topic and/or ask a question put enough information in the title to quickly catch the attention of those most likely able to help you.
"Pedal pin" could mean anything, and doesn't even let us know it a a question.
"Looking for the pedal pivot locking pin for my 49 F1" would get you quick correct answer.

 

I looked through my catalogs and all I found was a description. It's a 1/4"x1.5" solid rivet as written in the parts catalog.

Do you have a picture you can post from the catalog or where the pin goes?

 

It's nothing special... Pretty sure True Value and Ace Hardware sell clevis pins that size. McMaster, Grainger, and Fastenal also have them.

1/4" x 1 1/2" Stainless Steel Clevis Pins - 5 Pieces

DrillSpot 0156730 1/4" x 1-1/2" Zinc Finish Clevis Pin

McMaster-Carr Clevis Pins

Clevis Pin, Zinc, 0.250x1 1/2 L, Pk10 - Clevis Pins - Pins - 2XAR2 : Grainger Industrial Supply

 

Should the cotter pin for the clevis pin, *73919-S, Be inserted from the top or from the bottom?

 

I used a mic on the part and its over size by 5 thousands. When I ground the head off it still had to be pressed out. I guess a 1/4 pin would work peaned over. I also was thinking of a spring pin but I asked the question to be able to put it back together like they did at the factory.

 

I wouldn't be concerned about how the factory put the pin in. No one, besides you, would know the difference. Sometimes it's just impossible to put these trucks back like they were from the factory.

Ross, thanks for the picture. I found the same in my catalog this morning.

 

Since it is just a locking pin, you could tap the side of the pin shank with a hammer on a anvil and swell it enough to make it a press fit, or use a long enough pin to drill and cotterpin, or even use a bolt and lock nut on the bottom.

 

I am going to basically do that, use a 1/4 round head rivet and mash down the other side. Actually now that I am thinking about it, they used a press fit thru all pieces so when you pressure grease the pedals it would not come out a loose rivet. Back to the drawing board.

 

If I remember my pin on my '52 is a taper pin and only goes in one way. I'm working out of town now but I will check mine Saturday.