I've been reading about how the firewall is prone to cracking around the clutch master cylinder. So had to go out and look at mine. I'm not seeing any cracks and the re-enforcement plate on the outside of the firewall doesn't look like it's separating. But I don't know if I'm looking in the right place, couldn't find any pictures of the area that cracks. So basically what should I be looking for and where? I pulled the matting down enough to see around the m/c boot on the inside and really didn't see anything and the clutch works good. Not trying to create a problem that isn't there, just would like to stop it if it is.

 

The best way to check is have someone operate the clutch while you look it over. If it was cracked already though, you would be having clutch problems(not disengaging correctly). You are probably ok, especially if your clutch works easy.

 

There is a shallow metal "pan" with a shallow raised lip attached to the engine side of the firewall, through which the brake booster and clutch master attach. The seam along the joint between this "pan" and the actual firewall is a prime spot to look for incipient damage. It doesn't have to be actual cracks in the metal, it can manifest as cracks in this seam as well.

Mine also did not have any visible damage. But I had an assistant work the clutch pedal vigorously while I observed the clutch master cylinder. It did move, just a tiny bit, almost imperceptibly. And sometimes, in the summer, when it was hot and the engine was hot, I had a little trouble shifting into first gear from a stop.

So I went ahead and installed the small repair panel/kit. There may still be some available. It is a moderately tough job, by my standards.

 

They crack, from the outside, top passenger side edge (closest edge to the clutch master).


The re-enforcement plate goes inside the cab.

Heres a write up I did on mine.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11358654


If you plan on keeping the truck, I'd suggest ordering one from the link posted in the write up, and installing one, even if your firewall isn't' cracked....yet...

 

Thanks for the replies.

IDIDieselJohn, Good writeup. I see you used the large one and it looks like everything including the steering column have to be removed, right?

Galendor, You used the small kit? Any pictures of it? Just wondering what it looks like installed and what needs to be removed to do it.

Mine is working fine right now but I do plan on keep the truck. So maybe when I get ready to redo the interior it would be a good idea to go ahead and do it.

 

Mine wasn't apparent from the outside, but once I removed the clutch master, I found someone had used flat washers to keep it going. I bought the small kit from Ford, but there is a manufacturer liked in one of the threads recently that still has some, the Ford parts are getting hard to find. The cracks were obvious from the inside once the clutch master was removed. I was also having troubles shifting. Not a bad plan to put one in for prevention since it is so common.

 

Sure, here's the thread where I posted some not-so-good pictures of installation of the small plate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ex-repair.html

I would attach the instructions that came with the plate kit, but for some reason the site isn't allowing me to. Send me a personal message if you like and I can email them to you.

Basically for the small plate all you have to remove is the clutch master cylinder (and its pushrod from the clutch pedal lever).

 

This cab, was stripped down, as it's gonna be for my F250 restoration. But all you have to do is unbolt and move the steering column to get it in.


Mine was very easy, being a bare naked cab.



As for the smaller plate, it's worthless, even the guy who makes them (I got the big plate from him) once his stock of small plates are gone, hes not gonna be making anymore. His own truck has a small one, and his firewall still cracked.

The big one is a good investment, especially if you plan on keeping the truck.

 

Thanks for the replies again.

Galendor, Thanks for the link and pics, nice writeup. The small one does look a lot easier to install and, beings I don't have any signs of cracking now, might just go that way.

I do see where the large one does a better job of re-enforcing the firewall. Just not sure I really want to tear everything out jut to fix a problem I don't have yet. Guess I'm going to have to check it closer and decide which way I want to go. Probably going to do it when I do the carpet and seats this summer.

 

You know better than I do, but I wouldn't characterize the smaller reinforcement plate as worthless. It has 4 extra bolts and does spread the force out over a much larger area than the stock mounting (two bolts).


The reinforcement plate made for 1988 and later trucks was even much smaller than the one for '87 and earlier trucks. It did not even enclose the entire master cylinder firewall hole, and only mounted using the two existing master cylinder bolts. You don't even have to remove the master cylinder to install it.

The largest "repair" plate offers more structural support and is ideal to have. But its installation is more laborious than the smaller reinforcement plate.

 

So far the small plate has served me well, and mine was already cracked. I cheated and welded it in the trans tunnel, didn't feel like fighting to get the bolt in, as well as try to drill the hole under the dash to be able to bolt it in.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking. I did go out and recheck mine. While my ol' lady plumped the clutch I check under the hood and dash and didn't see any movement or cracks(ok, keep it clean). Even popped the M/C rod off and it looks good. So pulling everything out just doesn't make sense. It's 27 years old and that part still looks great so just want a little extra insurance.

 

Thats what I would do (did do) too.

Kedwinh, if you end up getting the smaller reinforcement plate (E3TZ-7K509-A), if you have time could you perhaps do me a favor:

Before installing, measure the distance between the two "side-flange" mounting bolt holes on the repair plate (either center to center, or top edge of hole to top edge of other whole).

The bolt holes I am referring to are the two found on the smaller angled part of the repair plate, which are meant to be bolted into the "transmission tunnel" part of the firewall (not the same firewall face that the clutch MC attaches to).

If I had that measurement, I could drill out the upper two of these holes from the engine side of the firewall, by estimating the distance from the one (lower) hole (which I did drill out during installation).

I should have measured this before installing, but alas, I did not. Thanks.

 

Sure will. Called the local Ford house this evening and going down tomorrow to order it. Probably be a day or 2 after that before I get it.

 

Hey Galendor.
Finally got the small kit in today. The holes your asking about are 1-1/8" center to center.

Another quick question, has anyone glued and bolted the plate to the firewall, using something like JB Weld? Just wondering if that would be a good or bad idea.
Thanks.