I'm not getting any voltage to my inline fuel pump.

 

found this for a dual tank setup. If you have a single tank, it should be similar without the tank selector. drawing is very small and hard to read...sorry

Normal set up for these is there are 2 separate power supplies. One comes from the starter solenoid when in "start". After engine is running, it gets power through the relay and oil pressure switch. Also goes through the inertia switch which cuts off power if you're in an accident. I think this is normally located on the passenger side under the glove box on the side.
So check fuse, starter solenoid, relay and tank selector if you have dual tanks.

 

Check the reset button on the inertia switch. On passenger side floor near where the heater duct is.

You can force the pumps on by putting a jumper (pin 6 to ground) on the test connector.
See my fuel system diagnosis writeup link in my signature.

 

This diagram is for a 460 EFI but should be the same I would think....diagram is easer to read

 

The 460 setup is quite a bit different as it has the electric tank switching valve.
The 302 used a non electric valve.
Here is the wiring diagram for the 302 EFI from my 86 shop manual. Equivalent to the diagram in post #2 above.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/duelfuel.jpg

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm gonna dig back in after work.

 

It was the fuel pump relay.

Just for info, my trucks wiring used a red and white from the EEC and a yellow and tan/black for the pump. The relay is mounted on the driver side firewall and for referance the relay coil resistance is only about a 120 ohms.

Thanks for the help.

 

Awesome!!! Glad you got it figured out and you're welcome!

Thanks for the update an details!!

 

I still have a existing problem with my fuel gauge, a buddy put in a new pump/sending unit in from Bronco Graveyard and my gauge still doesn't work correctly. So I was looking at the schematic and wiring and noticed a black wire coming back from the tank. Does the black go to a 'groung' under the dash?

 

not sure on the 85....on my 82 wiring diagram it shows it going through a connector back by the rear fender apron and then splicing into the instrumentation grounds up by the fuse box

 

Black should be the ground, there is also an orange wire which is fuel pump ground. One thing I found with a lot of aftermarket pump/sender units, on the original Ford units there are 4 pins, two are for the fuel pump and have either a red or a brown/white wire and an orange wire, the other two are fuel gauge and have either a dark blue/yellow or yellow/light blue and a black wire. The aftermarket ones, the pin the black wire goes to is a dummy, where on the original it was connected to the metal top of the sender. As a result, if you tank isn't grounded, the gauge on 80-88 models will read empty, 89-96/7 it will read full. Try grounding the tank(s) and see if the gauge works.

 

Well that's what I was wondering, if the black in that connector goes into the dash. I was under there and didn't see a ground.

I have 40 ohms from the negative battery terminal to the inline pump black, 40 ohms to the negative and the black in that connector AND 40 ohms between the two blacks

Someone once posted the standard locations of the grounding points.

 

The black ground wires from the senders and orange ground wires from the tank pumps are all spliced together in a huge blob on the drivers side frame rail near the rear tire-well. Then a single black wire goes from there up to the dash area.

What kind of problems are you still having with your gauge?
Read this about aftermarket senders:
Auto Meter

 

I never had any luck tying to measure my senders with an ohm meter. There seems to be a small parasitic DC voltage present even with everything turned off which confuses the Ohm meter. Out of the tank they measured fine but in the tank / fuel I can't get a reading.

 

It looks like all the blacks are grounds and was just ohming those to the negative battery terminal.