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Rear Disc Brake Conversion

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  #16  
Old 05-22-2012, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
If you do a search on this site you'll find loads of threads about it, including a couple of my own. It is very simple to do using chevy rotors from a 75 3/4 ton p/u with 4X. You can also use the same calipers, and buy the brackets from IIRC, Great Lakes off road. The chevy calipers are inexpensive.

I tried to use the 76-78 El Dorado calipers with ebrake, and never could get them to work right. I ended up switching to the chevy cals. There is a co. called TSM who has redesigned the Caddy calipers for this application ($300 a set) that is said to work great for those of us who like having an ebrake.

However, even after the conversion, I did not think my brakes adequate. That is why I converted the entire truck to use hydroboost, which produces 4 or more times force. Now the brakes are in the new century. Good luck.

Do a search for: Dana 60 disc conversion.
Thanks for the info, but I've seen all those D60 conversion threads. They don't apply to me... I don't have a Dana 60...

I'm looking for the Ford 9" rear end rear disc brake conversion that's going to work with what I have, which isn't a D60...
 
  #17  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:32 PM
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If anyone does need a set of the D60/70 disc rotors (the 75 chevy ones) I have a BRAND NEW set I bought when I had 1 ton axles... but I decided to stick with my half tons, and I lost the receipt (I bought them 2 years ago anyway). They are still in their unopened boxes. I live in WV so if anyone needs them and lives them close, I'll sell them to you for half of what they are new, I think they were almost $40 each, so say $35 and they are yours.

For the half ton stuff, do a search, I just did a post not too long ago that outlined all the different options when I was deciding which direction I wanted to go. It did not cover the proportioning valve. all you need to do is drill out the valve, though, to remove the residual valve. If you remove the stock valve, you will lose all brake pressure if you blow a line. Blow a rear line, lose all 4 wheel brakes. Thats no good, especially since the average brake conversion isn't going to have a mechanical E brake.

Honestly if I was doing it all over, I'd go pull all the **** off an explorer and buy the redrilled rotors from duff or currie to keep my 5x5.5. Then you can easily keep an E brake too.
 
  #18  
Old 03-07-2013, 10:55 AM
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I have a 94 ford ranger do you have any info on the portioning valve 2wd rear drum front disc
 
  #19  
Old 03-07-2013, 05:20 PM
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is it a 70's f series 94 ford ranger? if so I can help. if not, wrong forum.
 
  #20  
Old 03-07-2013, 06:46 PM
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rear disk

<CITE>Blackbird's Custom Trucks


</CITE>
 
  #21  
Old 03-09-2013, 08:31 AM
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blackbird's kits leave the stock MC and "recommend" an adjustable. Plus they are overpriced for not including a functional MC. Pretty sure his just have redrilled explorer rotors. Really, just picking up an entire explorer rear end for $60 at a junkyard and pulling the brakes off and having a machine shop drill the rotors is the best bet, and if I do disk on another 9" thats how its gonna be. If you don't wanna support a local machine shop and want to spend more, james duff and curry and probably others sell the rotors predrilled. Plus you can probably put the rear sans brakes on craigslist for $50-60 and get your money back out of it.
 
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