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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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Old 03-24-2012, 10:52 PM
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Bent push rod?

Got a friend that just put studs in his 06 350 and he said he got it all back together and everything sounds great except for he's got a chugging noise or something that sounds/"feels" like it's coming from in or near the air box and he said he searched a little on google and the results he found seemed to say mostly that it's probably a bent push rod. Any ideas? Are these easy or common to bend when doing this job?
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:42 PM
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From what Iv read that yes a Pushrod can bend during this kinda work

The crankshaft needs to be rotated to a Certain spot before the Pushrods are installed

Cant remember what location it should be in though or why

I havent been that far into this truck but from the Gassers Iv done it dont matter what position the crank is in once you torq the Rocker Arms the pushrods/Valves go to the position they should be in
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLADE35 View Post
From what Iv read that yes a Pushrod can bend during this kinda work

The crankshaft needs to be rotated to a Certain spot before the Pushrods are installed

Cant remember what location it should be in though or why

I havent been that far into this truck but from the Gassers Iv done it dont matter what position the crank is in once you torq the Rocker Arms the pushrods/Valves go to the position they should be in
Thanks for the info man. I'll let him know.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:28 AM
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http://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manu...%20removal.pdf

Look about half way down it's on there about crank postioning

It's in the tech folder under PDF files, Then head removal.

I always rotate it to the 6 o'clock position torque head down to first setp, then rotate the engine 2 full turns , ending back at the 6 o'clock postion (by hand do not use the starter) to insure there is nothing binding up if it is binding up stop right there and figure out the problem. I do this for both heads. Then once I do the final torque I rotate it again 2 full rotations just to be sure everything is good.

There are many different ideas of why the 6 o'clock postion. Some say it's not nessesary, but I have always done it, and have never bent a rod. The only thing I know about the 6 o'clock postion is that at that point none of the pistons are at TDC.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:40 AM
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After headgaskets? I bent my push rod, sounded like it was coming thru airbox...was on the pass side...

Had a 7.3 come back on a hook, same exact sound....sounded like it was coming thru the airbox....was on the pass side w/a bent push rod.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texans View Post
http://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manu...%20removal.pdf

Look about half way down it's on there about crank postioning

It's in the tech folder under PDF files, Then head removal.

I always rotate it to the 6 o'clock position torque head down to first setp, then rotate the engine 2 full turns , ending back at the 6 o'clock postion (by hand do not use the starter) to insure there is nothing binding up if it is binding up stop right there and figure out the problem. I do this for both heads. Then once I do the final torque I rotate it again 2 full rotations just to be sure everything is good.

There are many different ideas of why the 6 o'clock postion. Some say it's not nessesary, but I have always done it, and have never bent a rod. The only thing I know about the 6 o'clock postion is that at that point none of the pistons are at TDC.
Ok thanks. He's wanting to know how to rotate the crank shaft, and also, he's about an hour and a half from home and he's wanting to know if it's ok to drive it home or not.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:05 AM
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hmmm, an hour and a half from home is kind of a distance to drive it with a bent push rod...Im sure driving like that could cause lifter damage or even bigger damage with the cylinder not properly combusting....

Might be better off towing it....

Right off the bat, I would order the new push rod and rocker arm/assembly, I thought my rod was just bent, but the rocker was broken and I had to wait another day for parts.

Goodluck.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:09 AM
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I wouldn't drive it.

To rotate the shaft, use a breaker bar and a 18MM socket on the blancer bolts turn it clockwise.

There is a tool from ford to remove the rocker arms and change push rods. I belave this is the correct one OTC , 303-1170 Rocker Arm Relase Tool

There is a certain rod that tipicaly gets bent read this thread for a better explanation on witch one and correct way to go about the problem Help! 6.0 problem after head stud install - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:52 AM
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Thanks guys, I let him know everything and he's going to try and pull it back apart today. and see what he can find.

Just curious though...the rocker arms aren't too terribly expensive from Ford, so why does some aftermarket brand insist on pricing theirs at $2,500 on XDP?! Seems like you could go through SEVERAL factory sets before ever justifying that cost...
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texans View Post
There is a certain rod that tipicaly gets bent read this thread for a better explanation on witch one and correct way to go about the problem Help! 6.0 problem after head stud install - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
...... and I vividly remember being involved in that debate. And to the OP, no I would not drive it until the issue gets resolved.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:38 PM
 
 
 
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