After not having a ford truck for about a year after I had to sell my 06 F150 I just bought an 87 F250 4x4 Auto (C6?) with a carbed 460. I paid 900 which if figure is decent for a running truck. It’s got about the rust you expect in Iowa. I am trying to figure on where to start with it. I bought it as a 3rd vehicle to use for jobs around the house possible towing of a future boat or camper and as a winter beater for days when we get a lot of snow in Iowa. It won't ever be driven much and it won't need to look great. It seems to drive down the road ok right now typical rough ride I would expect from this truck but it seems solid and straight. The brakes seem to stop the truck ok but the pedal is a bit mushy. The motor seems to start up ok the but struggles to idle until it gets warmed up. I plan on changing the oil in it first. After that I figure probably start changing fluids and maybe belts. In idea what order I should go in? I figure it also could use a tune up. What’s a good manual to get for this truck? The other big issue for me is the driver’s side cab floor and rocker panel has a lot of rust. I would like to get the truck at least weather tight but I don’t care if it doesn’t look great. A replacement rocker was included with the truck. I am hoping I can pay a welder not too much to weld in the new rocker and patch some sheet metal in the floor. Does it look like this could be done or is the cab beyond saving?

 

Have they exact same truck but mine is a F-350 flatbed with the same engine, trans, and carb. Mine doesn't have a lick of rust on it though. California Truck. its amazing how certain areas of the country just destroy the bodies of these vehicles.

Some things to look for. Dual tank switch usually doesn't work. But its normally the tank fuel pump thats the problem. Rear lights usually have problems with grounds. 460 usually bullet proof. except cracked heads but you should not have a problem with that unless its got really hot! The 4180 Holley Carb is strong but when it starts to go rebuild it right away. Very easy to rebuild it. Can't really think of anything of else. Overall its a good truck. I do hope it holds together with all that rust.

 

Yeah the salt really sucks just eats through cars but at least we don't have pass emissions tests. How will I know when the Carb needs to be rebuilt? Whats the best rebuild kit? Is it something I should just put on my to do list for piece of mind?

 

Start with a full tune-up including fuel and air filters and all that. Also an oil change and check all the fluids and grease the undercarriage checking for bad U-joints and other worn parts along the way. Then address the brakes, start by bleeding them well and don't overlook the rear ABS valve on the driver's side frame rail under the cab, and make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly. I bought a '90 recently with a soft pedal. It needed a new master cylinder, front hoses, and calipers to get the pedal back and after I move I'll probably get the rear brake cylinders replaced and change that back hose. Pull the calipers and look at the little rubber boots around the pistons and if those are ripped or if there are leaks then replace the calipers.

That rocker is pretty bad so check for rusted body mounts and things that might be safety issues. The rubber flooring is torn so go ahead and rip it out and check for more rot. Maybe consider replacing the whole cab.

The C6 trans does not have OD and there were not other auto trannys without OD offered so if it doesn't have OD it's a C6.

Clear your schedule for a whole weekend, if you have a family drop the kids off with the grandparents and send the wife shopping and do the tune-up and just look over the whole truck really well. Check the vacuum hoses and just look for anything that doesn't look right and address it as soon as you can. Also the power steering takes type-F tranny fluid but most people don't know and put power steering fluid in it so check for that and suck it out with a turkey baster if it looks funky then fill it up and saw the wheel back and forth lock to lock a few times and repeat.

That should keep you busy for a while.

 

In rural eastern Oregon we don't have emissions tests at all and they don't salt the roads and I think east WA is the same. And you don't have to pump your own gas (or rather it's technically illegal) I'm moving to Colorado in a few days and I'm not looking forward to emissions tests on my old trucks.

 

Being from rural Wisconsin, I feel for ya about the rust (and the lack of emissions testing!) I peeled the carpet back on my truck to run some speaker wiring, and I'm just pretending that I didn't see what the floor really looks like under there. But you can find someone that would do the body work on that and make cab corners and rocker panels for you. I wouldn't replace the cab on a 900 dollar truck. Not unless you really want to pretty it up. That cab is still in good shape from what I can tell. It's just typical rust.
I would check to see how rotted out the gas tank straps are as well as the tanks. Check out the radiator core support. Probably check out exhaust hangers and see if the shocks are pretty well rotted away too.
As for the carb rebuild. You'll know when it needs to get rebuilt. It'll run like hell, wont idle, and probably flood out if it starts getting too bad. But the "rough idle until its warm" is because it's carb'd. It'll probably be rough in the winter to the point that you have to feather the gas a little bit until it runs decent.
The dual tank switch itself can go bad, but sometimes the connection gets dirty. My switch was "bad" on my truck when I got it. The P/O was a farmer and had filled the rear tank 6 years before I bought it and the tank quit working and told me the pump died on him. But I cycled the switch about 100 times just running my finger back n forth on it until the connection was made and my fuel filter was clogged.
Otherwise it's a good looking truck. Good move for 900 bucks. My 89 was $1500 with 89k miles.

 

I will investigate further but I think the body mounts and the seat mounts are pretty solid exhaust looks newer to me and seem solid. I will look at the gas tanks and radiator mounts. I don't envision myself taking on a cab swap I'm hoping to get a.welder to just get it to the point were I get water splashing up on me. I think an oil change an air filter and a fuel filter are on tap for next Saturday while the wife is at work. I also discovers that the hubs are mismatch Ford on one side something else on the other.

 

If you're planning on replacing the lock outs (if they work you might as well use them until they don't anymore) I recommend Warn. They make really tough stuff.

 

welcome to fte. nice truck for the price. i would change all the fluids and a tuneup to start with.

 

I bought a '90 recently with a soft pedal. It needed a new master cylinder

 

If the body and seat mounts are still solid and the rest of the cab is OK then a cab swap might be more work than it's worth, I was just suggesting it if there's more bad rust on the cab. I doubt mis-matched hubs would cause a problem but I'd personally put it on my to-do list of stuff to fix eventually just to be safe. I always get myself in trouble ignoring stuff like that that isn't how it's supposed to be but "works". Letting stuff slide always comes back to bite me.