This is what the manifold heating plate looks like. You cut one of your heating core lines and hook one end to each of the hose fittings, bolt the thing to the bottom of the Offenhauser 'C' or 'DP' with a gasket, and it keeps your Air/fuel mix nice and toasty.
*I notice that the old Clifford intakes had a hollow spot underneath them like the Offenhauser does for this purpose, but the Cliffy uses 4 bolts, and, I believe, the Cliffy holes are blind, and don't go all the way through.
Alright I got the new manifolds in today and after some grinding they fit but the studs w it do not fit the block. The old manifold just had bolts and huge *** washers. Anybody know were I can get the right size studs?
Alright. Got the new efi manifolds in and after some grinding they fit. The manifold studs do not fit in the block. The old manifolds had bolts w huge washers. Not sure if that's stock. Any idea Were I can get the right size studs? I've hit all the local part stores and no luck
"Did you install a manifold heat plate?" X2 If you didn't do that you are going to be chasing your tail to no avail.
Where does a guy get one of those manifold heat plates? I don't have one but I might as well try it since I've been having all of these same issues too. I need to read into recurving my distributor as well. With my 300 (see signature) the vacuum advance sends the timing all over the place and it won't run very good at all. Leaves me pretty disappointed for the amount of time and money I've put into it, really. I've tried setting the static timing from dead 0 all the way to 16*, same result every time, regardless of if it is plugged into the advance port or manifold vacuum. I've also tried setting the timing with a vacuum gauge as well as my digital gun. The advance sends it sky high and the motor bogs/misfires/pre-ignites. Would the flat tops I put in it mess with the compression ratio in such a way that it makes it this hard to time it?