A Pillar Gauge Pods
#16
(Thinking out loud here)
Cover my A pillar in release agent, cover in plaster to make a negative. Let dry. Cover negative in release agent, fill with plaster to make a positive of the pillar. Let dry. Build up plaster on the plaster A pillar. Let dry. Carve into desired shape. Cover in release agent. Cover in plaster. Let dry.
And there's the mold for the gauge pods
Cover my A pillar in release agent, cover in plaster to make a negative. Let dry. Cover negative in release agent, fill with plaster to make a positive of the pillar. Let dry. Build up plaster on the plaster A pillar. Let dry. Carve into desired shape. Cover in release agent. Cover in plaster. Let dry.
And there's the mold for the gauge pods
When I worked for a boat building company we did the last step with fiberglass so that the final mold would be reusable.
#17
#18
I was actually just thinking that this morning Final mold will be reinforced 'glass then. If I got time this afternoon, I'll start on the first mold.
#19
#20
#22
I'd be in for a 3 gauge pillar depending on cost. I'm looking to fit 2 of the 2-1/6" size & 1 2-5/8" tach. So please make the things big enough for a 2-5/8", not just 2-1/2" if you can.
Now to add a bit onto what has been posted already....
Do some of the build up with an A / B, expanding foam. Even a can of the expanding foam from the HomoDepot might work for this. It's cheap, light & easy to form/shape.
I also agree with making the mold out of fiberglass. Make it HEAVY & reinforce it a bit with wood or metal if possible as you want something strong enough to pull multiple (I'd think 50 or so) parts off of!
When we did my fender molds we shot for getting at least 100 parts out of the mold before the molds started to deteriorate/deform.
x2. Lots of talk on this before & nothing has been done. Not trying to come off as an ****, but I'll believe it when I see it.
Now to add a bit onto what has been posted already....
(Thinking out loud here)
Cover my A pillar in release agent, cover in plaster to make a negative. Let dry. Cover negative in release agent, fill with plaster to make a positive of the pillar. Let dry. Build up plaster on the plaster A pillar. Let dry. Carve into desired shape. Cover in release agent. Cover in plaster. Let dry.
And there's the mold for the gauge pods
Cover my A pillar in release agent, cover in plaster to make a negative. Let dry. Cover negative in release agent, fill with plaster to make a positive of the pillar. Let dry. Build up plaster on the plaster A pillar. Let dry. Carve into desired shape. Cover in release agent. Cover in plaster. Let dry.
And there's the mold for the gauge pods
When we did my fender molds we shot for getting at least 100 parts out of the mold before the molds started to deteriorate/deform.
x2. Lots of talk on this before & nothing has been done. Not trying to come off as an ****, but I'll believe it when I see it.
#25
Hey Devin one more thing.
Because of the round nature of the mold, your final cast will probably have to be split (cut off). So you will be making one part out of two pieces.
I imagine there might be a material that you could use so that you don't have to split the mold but laying it up then joining may prove to be easier.
Because of the round nature of the mold, your final cast will probably have to be split (cut off). So you will be making one part out of two pieces.
I imagine there might be a material that you could use so that you don't have to split the mold but laying it up then joining may prove to be easier.
#26
I'd be in for a 3 gauge pillar depending on cost. I'm looking to fit 2 of the 2-1/6" size & 1 2-5/8" tach. So please make the things big enough for a 2-5/8", not just 2-1/2" if you can.
Now to add a bit onto what has been posted already....
Do some of the build up with an A / B, expanding foam. Even a can of the expanding foam from the HomoDepot might work for this. It's cheap, light & easy to form/shape.
I also agree with making the mold out of fiberglass. Make it HEAVY & reinforce it a bit with wood or metal if possible as you want something strong enough to pull multiple (I'd think 50 or so) parts off of!
When we did my fender molds we shot for getting at least 100 parts out of the mold before the molds started to deteriorate/deform.
x2. Lots of talk on this before & nothing has been done. Not trying to come off as an ****, but I'll believe it when I see it.
Now to add a bit onto what has been posted already....
Do some of the build up with an A / B, expanding foam. Even a can of the expanding foam from the HomoDepot might work for this. It's cheap, light & easy to form/shape.
I also agree with making the mold out of fiberglass. Make it HEAVY & reinforce it a bit with wood or metal if possible as you want something strong enough to pull multiple (I'd think 50 or so) parts off of!
When we did my fender molds we shot for getting at least 100 parts out of the mold before the molds started to deteriorate/deform.
x2. Lots of talk on this before & nothing has been done. Not trying to come off as an ****, but I'll believe it when I see it.
Expanding foam is a great idea.
Yeah, I'll make the mold heavy enough so that I get tired of using it before it gets tired of me.
Hey Devin one more thing.
Because of the round nature of the mold, your final cast will probably have to be split (cut off). So you will be making one part out of two pieces.
I imagine there might be a material that you could use so that you don't have to split the mold but laying it up then joining may prove to be easier.
Because of the round nature of the mold, your final cast will probably have to be split (cut off). So you will be making one part out of two pieces.
I imagine there might be a material that you could use so that you don't have to split the mold but laying it up then joining may prove to be easier.
#28
I bought a kit from these guys to reproduce gas tank emblems for a Polaris 3-wheeler. Casting Resin and Silicone Mold Making Rubber Its amazing stuff. Read up and watch their vids. Sign up for the Hobby Lobby news letter. They offer 40% off all the time. I'm not really sure this would be the way to go about the gauge pod but I thought I'd throw it out there.