You are exactly right. I am going to go with the Lincoln MK VIII fan setup. I will need to get a temperature controller to run it with a manual override on the inside. I wasn't able to find the fan I was looking for this last week so I just bolted up the flex fan to get the start up and the cam break in done. I don't have a shroud either so I gotta do something anyways. What I have done in the past to get through the extra heat from the break in is to just run water from a hose across the radiator. It is more effective than running 5 fans at once. I have a 100 amp alternator but I need to figure out all the wiring and stuff first. I will keep you posted on what I decide to do. I will go check out those controllers too. I haven't shopped for them yet. I might need to hit you up for more advice on the fan setup.

 

Well, I didn't blow it up. Every time I would get ready, I would find another problem. The big radiator had a leak on the seam right under the filler cap. I had JB weld handy so I got it fixed. I will have to pull the radiator and get it fixed right once I get through the startup. I also made a stupid noobie mistake. I had the fuel lines reversed on the mechanical fuel pump.

I had lots of trouble with getting the distributor to drop completely into place. I know the hex won't drop all the way in so I had to bump the starter to get it in. I finally got it to seat then had to pull it again. I was getting flames through the carb so I thought I was 180 degrees out. I reset it and of course I had it right the first time. I had to switch it back to the way I had it before but this time I would not drop in at all. It got dark and I had to get ready for work. That is where I'm at now.

I need help getting the distributor to drop in. I am kind of on my own here and don't have anyone with mechanical knowledge around me. I figure I will sleep on it and see what happens tomorrow evening if the weather complies.

 

the distributor is not easy to get in..i9 noticed on my motor there was some flashing from the molding process interfering with the distributor..have that removed since the motor is being rebuilt....
here is the way i drop my distributor in..i pull # 1 plug...stick my finger over the hole and crank the engine watching the timing marks until i feel the air coming out of the plug hole..i also look for the about the 10 degree btdc...then i drop in the distributor, with the rotor set at the number one..if it won't go all the way in..i trap the starter a bit ...it drops right in..this also gives you a good starting point for timing..which should be around 10 -12 degrees before top dead center..
i am running the same cooling fan as you..i don't have a shroud either, but will get a new one..lmc, bronco grave yard, npd..all have them..
i use a flex-a-lite cooling fan adjuster for the fan..plus a manual over ride...i am not going to run ac in my truck, had it, removed it..besides i need to sweat off a fewe pounds...
let me know if you need anything..i have a spare adjuster for the fan if you want it..just pay the postage..

 

This is as far as it dropped.



If I get time tomorrow then I'll go back and screw with it. Finding the right timing mark is easy. Getting the stupid distributor to drop where I need is the hard part. I was pressed for time and needed to get ready for work. If I got the break in started then I would have called in "sick"

Does anybody have a new oil pan that they can part ways with? Mine will get me through the break in but it might have caught an STD when I dropped it. I has a slow drip Not to mention, I have no dipstick. The local parts stores want too much money for the pans. $200+

 

Here is how it sits now. This is a much better picture then before:



The new motor looks much better in the compartment then on a stand. I never realized the master cylinder was that bad until I looked at the pictures. It's getting replaced with an f350 setup anyways.



I also need a driver's side headlight bezel if anyone knows of one. Does the f series truck use the same one?

 

It looks great bud. I remember doing the dizzy on my 400 when i broke this:

I tried and tried to get it to seat but it wouldn't, my neighbor who drag races a mustang pulls his dizzy often so he came over and fiddled with it and dropped it in just fine...

Edit: Also in regards to the headlight bezel i am pretty sure the f-series worked as well. I was going to use one to do round headlights on my bronco.

 

Man...my dizzy is new. I hope I don't break it.

As for the headlights, I always liked the look of the round headlights better than the square. I'm sure I will catch a little hell for that...

Have you had any problems with the body lift? I have been considering a couple inches for a while.

Just a side note...You may find this funny but I saw another 78 bronco today at the gas station. I walked over to talk to him about it. He was about 16 or 17 years old and said he just put over 3k into the suspension. I looked at it and it was a 3" body lift, lowered spring buckets in front and 6" blocks in the rear. I considered plugging FTE until I saw the crappy work done. I would be embarrassed to drive it...

 

Nay your dizzy should be fine, i weigh about 215lbs and i put probably half my weight onto 2 flat head screwdrivers to break it. I read that you can pry it off to replace the magnet stuff (forgot the name) and i couldn't get it off so i got pissed and put some *** into it and broke it...

I will join you in that fire on the round lights i too have always liked the look of it.

I find it looks better, i also like the black trim too.

The body lift? I don't know how it acted before the lift but it seems ok, i really don't know what to say about it cept that i wish it was in suspension over body lift. BUT i don't mind. It seems that it would add body roll and not be as safe. A lot of people would say to stay away due to safety problems but unless your swinging turns like your in the Indy 500 or hitting the trails like someone who has a million dollars to spend on broken parts, you should be fine. It does prevent rub on the fenders and adds the space between the frame for stuff.

And the kid driving the 78? Man i feel ashamed just reading it... 6" blocks, you know i had considered it but it seems reallllllly unsafe... I plan to add about 4" in suspension to TGM in the future.

 

What kind of paint would you use to paint the bezels? I don't wanna put something on it that is going to peel off when I hit it with the pressure washer or a bug hits it. I tried to be a cool guy and paint the grill inserts on my dd and they look like crap now. I even went the extra mile and put clear over them....

As for the kid with the bronco, he told me that the suspension was "custom". I would bet that he was telling the truth on this one because nobody in their right mind would market a 6" block. He was running 38.5" tires though. I'll just wait on him to crash due to the instability and buy it for parts.

 

Ya haha lots of parts. A good person to ask on the paint is a fellow FTE member and friend EdgeThis, with the Zebra. He work sin the military and they have this stuff called CARC which is the toughest paint around but i don't know how to get ahold of any. I don't know if he can get anymore but he used it on the frame and other parts of his. Other than that i could think a thin bed liner product would work i would imagine.

 

Justin..
i have the factory oil pan off my truck..i cleaned it up and it looks like new..i am putting a different pan on mine....let me know if interested

thanks
outlawbob

 

Sure man. Is it for an m block?

 

yes it's a m- block..won't get my engine back until next week..just need to make sure the new fit's..which i sure it will..for the price i paid...i will be out of town the rest of the week..returning late friday..as soon as i get my engine in..i will let you know..
for paint..i would powered coat the headlight buckets...depends on your money situation...

 

I forgot about powder coating it... That would be fairly cheap i would imagine for something as small as a bezel.

Since you guys are talking about pans, on a stock C-6 trans pan would it be better to drill a hole and install a drainplug, or buy a pre-plugged pan? I figure that would save me a lot of time and hassle when i do my next service on it.

 

what i would do..is to remove it and have a bung welded into it..then install a removable plug..I would also drill a 2" hole in the trans mount for drainage and access to the drain plug....
on full size bronco site..there is a lot of discussion on the trans pan..it's around page 60 or so.. the b & m pan won't fit so i have been told..the tci pan just fits..adds 2 quarts to the pan..i would also install a filter on the high pressure line before the radiator and a cooler on the return line in front of the radiator... if you send me your email i will send you pictures of what I have done..my email is bobs_427@yahoo.com
i don't know how to post pictures here..
hope this helps...