You can try putting a noid light on one of the fuel injectors and cranking the engine.
If it flashes the computer is more than likely OK.
You can rent a noid light at any O'Reilly auto parts store.
If the noid light flashes the next step would be to put a Fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, ground pin #6 of the self-test connector and turn on the key. You should get about 45psi fuel pressure.

Also make sure the small black wire with a green stripe has a good connection at the NEG (-) post of the battery.

When you did all of the work on it you did not wash the engine did you?
If you did and you got water down low on the drivers side you could have a burn computer.

 

do you have any ground wires loose or disconnected ?
dumb thought !

 

Ok, I have another question..... should the pressure on the fuel rail hold or bleed down? When I tested the pressure, the fuel pressure would build up to 40psi while cranking. However, it would then bleed back down rather quickly. I did remove the neg. batt cable while I was doing all of the work. I will take a look at that next. I picked up a computer at a local junk yard for $25 today. I will put that in next and see if that takes care of it. If not, I guess I will need to get a light and check the timing. Thanks

 

The fuel pressure should drop back a few LBS and then drop slowly when you stop cranking.
You may have a bad fuel check valve in the high pressure pump or the fuel pressure regulator may not be seating or you may have a leaky injector or two.
But if it has 40psi while cranking then the fuel pressure should not stop it from starting.

 

Ok, so I finally got the thing going yesterday. After troubleshooting wire after wire, I finally found the problem. I got the engine to TDC and pulled the distributer. I did this earlier in the process but used a compression gauge. This time i pulled the #1 plug and stuck a rod in the cylinder. That way I could be more exact. While doing this, I discovered that the rotor was definitely retarded. So, I pulled the distributer and advanced the gear one tooth.. And, it started up. It ran rough and I didn't have any adjustment left so I moved it another tooth. That took care of it. However, I didn't remove the distributer until after this problem started and I was VERY careful to mark everything and realign it just as it came out. So, at this point I'm still baffled as to how this happened. I did hook up the plug wires in the "new" firing order pattern the first time I tried to start it after doing all of the work. Could this have had anything to do with it? Do I need to pull the font cover and check the gears and chain? One more thing, is this an interference engine (302)? Thanks so much for all of your help!