Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)Diesel Topics Only
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Body is off, frames getting the wire wheel and then painted....thoughts on what paint? No pics, dropped the iPhone and cracked the whole back corner of it, including camera
Nice, forget the wire wheel though and sandblast it. Sure a wire wheel on a 4.5 inch grinder works well... but not well enough. I've done cars with that but they didn't see the driving and salted roads that my 4x4 idi dually does. After just a few months my dually is starting to rust up again where I wire wheeled the frame extensively, cleaned the surface with lacquer thinner and painted with rustoleum satin black.
For my 89 idi I took a different approach:
I sandblasted I sprayed my frame with rustoleum professional gloss black. I used my hvlp gun to do it so it layed on nice and thick. Although, I am not all that happy with the paint, it just doesn't seem to dry - sure its a terrible time of the year to paint right now and I did spray it on thick - but still. I'll give it a few more weeks and it should probably cure. It needs a hardener bad though - which I found at tractor supply - for oil based enamels. I will give it a try when I sandblast and paint the frame on my dually.
If I were to do it all over on my 89 - I would have used black epoxy primer or self etching primer - basically, anything for bare metal that has an activator/hardener. I just thought that $30 a gallon for rustoleum was a little cheaper than $200 or so for the primer.
I'll try to take that vid of the sidewinder by next week - mocked up my exhaust today and I will weld tomorrow.
In the end though, since you're lucky enough to live on the west coast, whatever you do should hold up decent. Let me know what you'll go for.
What would the powder coat benefits be compared to like por15 or what old blue suggested?
I have no experience with POR15. I have a very good friend in auto restoration who tells me it is made to go over rust - if you paint it over bare clean metal it just flakes off. I say that if you wire wheel por15 might be worth a shot. Just take the hard rust scale off and clean the surface. This friend swears by rustoleum though, and will paint firewalls and frames with that satin black (out of a spray can) I mentioned earlier - on six figure show cars. It actually looks nice, I mean after all it is a lot like the acrylic enamel the factory used. It should hold up too if it is prepped and painted right. I remember he showed me a frame he had laying in the mud for 5+ years - it had been wire wheeled and painted in rustoleum - amazingly it looked brand new.. - a little cleaning exposed shiny black paint.
If you go really wild with it you can hold a propane torch on your frame and basically dry it for painting - you will see the moisture coming off the metal - really interesting actually.
I am pretty sure the humidity and me laying it on really thick played a part in my drying issues with the rustoleum professional. - I painted my snow plow last year in the same rustoleum but in yellow (and out of a spray can) - it held up surprisingly well. Back then I didn't have a blaster so I just wire wheeled it.
Whatever you do, I would go for the best possible, I doubt you want to be pulling that body off again. I know I sure don't want to strip the underneath of my truck again - hopefully that paint will dry for me. Powder coating might be nice - it is probably more durable - but all the powder coated tools I've had like engine cranes and jacks seem to hold up pretty much on par with a quality paint though.
I like rustoleum as well the Red has an amazing finish, tough as naiils and hasnt faded. although rust-bullet and por-15 are supposedly better. But if youre going all out... powder-coat hands down. Im going to do mine in the rough flat black, frame, springs,axles who knows what else. Going to line-x the bottom of the body as well, but no doubt youre skipping that due to weight.
I'm not too concerned with underneath it...just don't want to start seeing rust down in 10 years. The west coast is pretty friendly on the vehicles compared to the east side, so I'm sure any of these options would fit well for it. I have a large propane torch so I might do what old blue says and go that route
I'd love to see this thing with a Flareside bed on it... Fiberglass fenders, fabricated aluminim bedsides (tubbed) and bed floor, batteries relocated to the bed, and a fiberglass one piece tilt front end. That'd probably clip a few pounds off, not to mention look awesome and make it easier to get to the innards. Stacks run out the back like a 'LIL RED EXPRESS, up through the steps behind the cab.
Here I am daydreaming at work again...
...Back to your regularly scheduled FTE programming.
1980 Ford F-100, Flareside 4x2 - 155k
1997 Ford Ranger, STD Cab, 7' bed, 3.0L/Automatic 2WD - FOR SALE!
suppose ill update this, even tho i already showed off the new part.
change of plans, not running the DB2/DB4 . using a inline pump. its big....real big...lol flows 340cc of fuel at 1400rpm (engine speed) im debating buying a "trial" idi (6.9 or 7.3) what ever i can get cheap.
im concerned this thing might just alienate the idi....ill do a test on one with lower CR, cam, and studs, just pretty much to see what gives first. if its something unexpected then with the IDIT block i have that info to incorporate into my full build and make sure nothing like that (or what ever it may be) happens again...
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