replaced ICP, I have HPOP/IPR question now
#1
replaced ICP, I have HPOP/IPR question now
Ok so I ordered a new ICP from RiffRaff, put it on when I got home from work. It seems to have made a difference in how the truck responds when I hit the gas from a dead stop, no more white smoke and hard shifting....but i was kinda thinking it would help how the truck ran when idle...when the truck is idling and its kind of cold like it was immediatly after i changed it it would idle fine and then it would hiccup (guess that would be a "miss" right?) so my question is this, will taking my HPOP off and cleaning my IPR and replacing all of the o-rings and gaskets help this or not?
Does this have anything to do with my up-pipes leaking? and if not what are they affecting by leaking, I still have alot to learn about diesl trucks.
Thank ya'll again... as always saving me money and aggravation.
Does this have anything to do with my up-pipes leaking? and if not what are they affecting by leaking, I still have alot to learn about diesl trucks.
Thank ya'll again... as always saving me money and aggravation.
#2
The ICP only reads oil pressure. If your old sensor was biased one way it could be giving false information to the PCM. The PCM takes the ICP sensor pressure and uses that to regulate the IPR. A rough idle is not usually something that can be attributed to the IPR. If it were sticking it may cause the slow or hard starts or dying. What you describe as a hiccup could be related to the CPS as the grey CPS tends to create a noticeable mis at idle.
IDLE IPR DC is usually around 14%, that is what I would be looking at. If you don't have AE, I would suggest you buy it as changing parts without troubleshooting is hard on the pocketbook. AE is an investment and will save you in the long run.
IDLE IPR DC is usually around 14%, that is what I would be looking at. If you don't have AE, I would suggest you buy it as changing parts without troubleshooting is hard on the pocketbook. AE is an investment and will save you in the long run.
#3
IPR cleaning might help. You do not need/want to remove your HPOP to do this. 1 1/8" deep socket. Your Leaking uppies will not cause a miss. If bad enough you can use loose some boost and fuel economy.
Few other things to consider on the miss:
CPS - Have you had the recall done? Have you tried a spare?
UVCH - Can cause a stumble, just at idle is suspicious though.
42 Pin Wire harness over the diver's side VC - inspect for wear.
Cheers,
MR
Few other things to consider on the miss:
CPS - Have you had the recall done? Have you tried a spare?
UVCH - Can cause a stumble, just at idle is suspicious though.
42 Pin Wire harness over the diver's side VC - inspect for wear.
Cheers,
MR
#4
Ya I would like an AE but not really in the budget this week lol or month.
You answered one of my questions as to whether or not I would have to take the HPOP of to "rebuild and clean" the IPR
Not sure as to whether or not the CPS has been recalled. I remember my dad had taken it to the dealership for a recall but cant remember what it was for.
I'v done the $0.50 mod, so shouldnt be UVCH.
Whats the location of the 42 pin harness? this is the first time I'v heard of it.
Thank you both
You answered one of my questions as to whether or not I would have to take the HPOP of to "rebuild and clean" the IPR
Not sure as to whether or not the CPS has been recalled. I remember my dad had taken it to the dealership for a recall but cant remember what it was for.
I'v done the $0.50 mod, so shouldnt be UVCH.
Whats the location of the 42 pin harness? this is the first time I'v heard of it.
Thank you both
#5
Here is some helpful info on the IPR rebuild.
IPR Rebuild - Large Pics.pdf
As for the up pipes leaking they will not affect the injectors firing or having a "miss" they will cause a loss of drive pressure on the turbo, and possible losses in MPG due to the loss of efficiency.
IPR Rebuild - Large Pics.pdf
As for the up pipes leaking they will not affect the injectors firing or having a "miss" they will cause a loss of drive pressure on the turbo, and possible losses in MPG due to the loss of efficiency.
#6
42 pin (at least) harness crosses over the driver side valve cover. The connector is held in place by a bracket. It's an inch + thick wire bundle. They have been know to rub though on the VC and cause problems.
I'd make sure you know the story behind the CPS. Even new ones are found to be bad... If it is grey it has been changed. You should cary a spare anyway. They cost $25. Pick one up and swap them. If it fixes the problem, great, toss the old one. If not, put the old one in the glove box for a spare. 10mm wrench and 10 minutes is all it takes.
I'd make sure you know the story behind the CPS. Even new ones are found to be bad... If it is grey it has been changed. You should cary a spare anyway. They cost $25. Pick one up and swap them. If it fixes the problem, great, toss the old one. If not, put the old one in the glove box for a spare. 10mm wrench and 10 minutes is all it takes.
#7
Changed the CPS, the old one was a gray one, hard to tell if it made a difference so far....engine doesnt seem to miss anymore...but not sure.. Real test will be how well it starts after cooling down all night. I dont think I should have to cycle glow plugs in 60degree weather or that it would take a few min for the lope to stop after starting.
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#8
Changed the CPS, the old one was a gray one, hard to tell if it made a difference so far....engine doesnt seem to miss anymore...but not sure.. Real test will be how well it starts after cooling down all night. I dont think I should have to cycle glow plugs in 60degree weather or that it would take a few min for the lope to stop after starting.
#10
truck was still difficult to start this morning (when I say difficult I mean I tried to start it for about 10seconds, then I cycled the glow plugs and tried it again and it fired right up) once I got it fired up it ran like it was cold, and has little power when you go to drive it (I typically have to stomp on the go pedal for a a minute in order for it to get "warmed up" then it seems to run fine.
FYI it was about 50degrees last night (shouldnt need to cycle glow plugs and/or plug it in when its that warm out right?)
FYI it was about 50degrees last night (shouldnt need to cycle glow plugs and/or plug it in when its that warm out right?)
#11
#13
Correct me if I am wrong, but with worn injectors wouldnt it run bad ALL of the time? I dont know thats why I am asking.
#14
I dont get white smoke upon startup, but I do from "takeoff" sometimes those are the times the truck shifts hard.
#15