so if I have this straight the dealer installed 3RD oil cooler today and its plugged already

If the ABove is true ^^^^^^^ its not being flushed right


Well untill the truck is flushed cooling system PROPERLY the oil cooler will keep pluging

I mean you Literaly have to take coooling system apart at every Hose conection open the block drain plugs and flush at each Location stuff a hose in then pull thermostat and run at high idel 1100rpm with cleaner in it and then do the hose thing again

when you Pull thermostat stuff hose in there this will backflush Block have block drains out and lower hose off let it flow a few

Almost makes me wonder if they really even changed the Oil Cooler again today or NOT Im starting to wonder if they really flushed it yesterday at all
there other things that cause high EOT Bad water pump,cavitation front cover

but if you still see alot of junk comming out with the flushes its probably just clogged

 

They did not install a 3rd cooler, just flushed it.

Ever blow compressed air straight into the oil cooler?

I am thinking about going air/water/air/water

Im not just seeing just sand sediment, there are some chunks of what look like rust flakes, some as big as a dime.

IMO I am flushing the hell outta this thing from every angle.

 

I flushed and backflushed the hec out of it for days. My EOT delta is now normal for over 2000 miles, it was in the 20 to 25, now 3 to 5 empty. Next month I am going for a 15,000 miles trip to Alaska, hope it stays good. I guess I did not have any goo in it, probably why it was successfull. If not, I can allways count on this forum for help, it has been a great rescue for me. Just to make sure, I did another flush and backflush yesterday and swichted to Rotella ELC. Do not want that silicate in my engine ever.

Looks like you still have a lot of crap in it, could be rust or scale. I had a lot of scale in mine and a bit of rust. I use a filter but remember this is only a bypass filter so the crap still goes to the oil cooler. When you backflush, make sure you jerk the water line, close open quickly, this is when I had most of the stuff out of the oil cooler.

At all time, I was checking what was comming out in a big container under the engine, you will not see the crap just looking at it flowing. I doubt the dealer will do that, here they charge 100 dollars an hour, it took me 2 days

When you flush the big rad, make sure you disconnect the big bottom hose, that is where you will get the most crap out. You can also backflush the big rad using a 1 1/2 inch rubber connector and reducers / adaptor to connect the garden hose to the bottom big outlet, backflushing up to the upper outlet. I got some crap this way too. For the flush from the upper rad, you can use a 1 1/4 inch plumbing rubber and reducer / adaptor to connect the hose directly for bigger volume of water.

Another thing, the scale comes out only when I block the bootom outlet and let go when the rad is full. Otherwise, the flake would not come out, they like to get shocked.

Whatever component I flush, I use a 3/4 inch garden hose adaptor connected directly to the inlet so I put some good volume of water.

For the engine, you can flush through the heater engine inlet. Remove the engine plug on the driver side and the block heater from the passenger side, it is just above the starter and you need a 32 mm socket. Use a 3/4 inch garden hose adaptor for good volume and keep the rad disconnected so crap does not get back in the rad. Run it, and jerk it.

Good luck

 

So I just wanted to post the final resolution of the Engine oil temp issues my truck was having.

After months of bickering with the dealer and my warranty company I found the name of the best lawyer in town and I gave the dealer an ultimatum to give me my money back in full or put a new engine in the truck or prepare to be sued.

I have now had 2,000 trouble free miles with a new Ford longblock that came with a 3 yr/unlimited mileage warranty. They also replaced the oil cooler, both heater cores, all the coolant hoses except the long one that runs back to the rear heater core, and had my radiator flushed and tested at a radiator shop.

My truck when not towing in daily driving situations when fully warmed up (i drive pretty easy) now has the coolant temp right at 190 and oil temp just slightly higher than that. (within 2-3 degrees)
When I floor it, accelerate up a hill, tow, etc those temps go up together with a max observed temp variance of 7-8 degrees.

So what was the deal with my truck?

My truck had a flaking of the coolant passages. The block was flaking off making dime sized flakes of rust that clogged parts of the cooling system over and over.
The heater cores and oil cooler would clog and were repeatedly flushed clear just to clog again. It took replacing darn near all of it to fix the issues.

So like my title says, I WON!!!!!

Here are some interesting stats
1. My warranty company paid for me to drive a rental car 7 days
2. The selling Ford dealer paid for me to drive a rental for over 70 days
3. I am not sure on the total cost for parts, labor, and machining for fixing my truck over and over and over again but it was over $20,000.
50% of that cost could have been saved if the dealership and warranty company would have listened to the mechanics recommendation in the first place.

Total cost to me $0.00 as I never had to get into paying the lawyer $300 an hour. I did waste alot of fuel and time going back and forth to the selling dealer, but it all turned out well.

 

Did they swap the ARP Studs over to the new long block????????????????


If they could have saw you Sig they could have told you to take a Hike Lawer and ALL


But glad it worked out for you

 

Yes

They sold me the truck with the intake and exhaust and installed the EGR delete themselves. They didnt want to get dragged into court.

The key to it all was that the truck was behind there service bay for heating and cooling issues when I first saw it. i bought it with the agreement that it was all repaired and warrantied by the dealer. It wasnt. They sold me a truck with blown headgaskets and a clogged oil cooler.

Luckily it didnt have to get to a judge to solve the dispute.

 

Oh Im with ya Now I thought that you had owned the truck for awhile

Its been in the shop more than your driveway so far

As long as price right sounds like a good deal new moter anyway

Did they swap the ARP Studs over to the new long block??????????????

 

Yeah, the studs were swapped.

That was an upgrade I supplied when they tried new heads to fix the issues first.

 

But if they just put a New Long Block in the Cylinder Heads aree already Installed on a Long Block

See what I mean

Did you get a short Block and they put the Other Newer Heads on it and are Calling fit a Long block since all Parts are newer IDK

Im Just Curious

It really surprises me that Dealer would do a EGR Deleate too sounds like a Good Dealer Honestly other than the Time thing

 

Glad it all worked out and your wife is happy. Yes.

 

Winning!