For Those Considering Big Exhaust!
#16
Now I don't know if there is any truth to this but I have read that on a stock set up of guys going to a 5" thinking if 4" is good that 5" is better and ending up creating alittle turbo lag. Or making it a alittle doggy. And from reading what Roland just said maybe there is some truth to it. I don't know? Would this apply "reduces backpressure and hurts drive pressure at lower speeds" ??
Now I myself went with a 4" MBRP turbo back with flow thru muffler and I am very pleased with the sound and at that time I did see mileage improve about .5 to 1.0 mpg. And that was checking mileage by gallons used not the computer. Now my stock exhaust had a cat and muffler.
Now I myself went with a 4" MBRP turbo back with flow thru muffler and I am very pleased with the sound and at that time I did see mileage improve about .5 to 1.0 mpg. And that was checking mileage by gallons used not the computer. Now my stock exhaust had a cat and muffler.
This would lead one to believe that they are two seperate things... They are not, they are the same thing...
Drive Pressure is Back Pressure...
#17
Actually as I try to think this though it is back pressure before it gets to the turbine wheel. Then when that pressure is in the turbine wheel it is drive pressure. Then as that pressure leaves the turbine wheel it is again back pressure. And please correct me if I am wrong. And I am sure you will. And for the sake of learning goes thanks for your input.
Sorry about the
#18
Well... there are those who would call the difference in sound from a 5" exhaust a "benefit"... just saying (no other point intended or implied).
#20
A common garden spigot has a 1/2" pipe feeding it, usually as a spur from a larger common pipe. Put a 1/2" garden hose100' long on the spigot at full flow, then swap it out for a 3/4" garden hose 100' long - you'll see a difference in flow out the nozzle. Now, take 1/2" garden hose 3' long and a 3/4" garden hose 3' long and you won't see squat for difference - except the distance the water ejects out the nozzle. One of the many ways I get my geek on.
Going to a 4" downpipe and going big on the rest, or going 5" downpipe (if possible) will make a difference with big CFM numbers. Bends count as restrictions, and there are plenty of those under a truck. Larger diameter pipe will compensate for restrictive bends, plus don't forget the muffler. There is also a point to be made that I've stated in order to justify the 5", mega-mods are needed - and that dink of a turbo ain't gunna stay with a mega-mod.
I'm just sayin'
#21
With all humility and respect to CSIPSD, I must respond to this for the sake of accurately conveying useful information to the readers.
A common garden spigot has a 1/2" pipe feeding it, usually as a spur from a larger common pipe. Put a 1/2" garden hose100' long on the spigot at full flow, then swap it out for a 3/4" garden hose 100' long - you'll see a difference in flow out the nozzle. Now, take 1/2" garden hose 3' long and a 3/4" garden hose 3' long and you won't see squat for difference - except the distance the water ejects out the nozzle. One of the many ways I get my geek on.
Going to a 4" downpipe and going big on the rest, or going 5" downpipe (if possible) will make a difference with big CFM numbers. Bends count as restrictions, and there are plenty of those under a truck. Larger diameter pipe will compensate for restrictive bends, plus don't forget the muffler. There is also a point to be made that I've stated in order to justify the 5", mega-mods are needed - and that dink of a turbo ain't gunna stay with a mega-mod.
I'm just sayin'
A common garden spigot has a 1/2" pipe feeding it, usually as a spur from a larger common pipe. Put a 1/2" garden hose100' long on the spigot at full flow, then swap it out for a 3/4" garden hose 100' long - you'll see a difference in flow out the nozzle. Now, take 1/2" garden hose 3' long and a 3/4" garden hose 3' long and you won't see squat for difference - except the distance the water ejects out the nozzle. One of the many ways I get my geek on.
Going to a 4" downpipe and going big on the rest, or going 5" downpipe (if possible) will make a difference with big CFM numbers. Bends count as restrictions, and there are plenty of those under a truck. Larger diameter pipe will compensate for restrictive bends, plus don't forget the muffler. There is also a point to be made that I've stated in order to justify the 5", mega-mods are needed - and that dink of a turbo ain't gunna stay with a mega-mod.
I'm just sayin'
Here are some pictures of the 19cm housing I have for my H2e... I have not installed it because I just dont care but it is a housing that on a modded H2e is capable of about 650-700hp as a single.
So tell me what size turbo has a larger then 4" outlet... Only thing I can think of is LARGE secondary turbos that would be used in a twin set up...
I'll repeat myself, since it got missed the first time...
THERE IS NO POINT IN WHICH A 5" EXHAUST IS NEEDED.
#22
Here are some pictures of the 19cm housing I have for my H2e... I have not installed it because I just dont care but it is a housing that on a modded H2e is capable of about 650-700hp as a single.
So tell me what size turbo has a larger then 4" outlet... Only thing I can think of is LARGE secondary turbos that would be used in a twin set up...
I'll repeat myself, since it got missed the first time...
THERE IS NO POINT IN WHICH A 5" EXHAUST IS NEEDED.
So tell me what size turbo has a larger then 4" outlet... Only thing I can think of is LARGE secondary turbos that would be used in a twin set up...
I'll repeat myself, since it got missed the first time...
THERE IS NO POINT IN WHICH A 5" EXHAUST IS NEEDED.
I won't say you're wrong, incorrect, or mistaken - I just made my case and you made yours. The readers now have mulitple sources of input and observations to consider when making their purchasing decisions. Thank you for contributing to the thread, it's all useful information.
#23
I am not master or claim to be, and hardly ever get into debates. But i would think:
If the fan had an output of 4" and a 100 foot run of 4" pvc pipe. The pipe run(distance) would be the restricting factor.. The air would bottle neck because it would run out of power to continue its journey the rest of the way and have to be "pushed" Using a 5" pvc or 6". Would be lesser a restriction. That is why Fans have specs on min size and max distance, As such of a dryer vent. Or Sub pump. before they loose efficiency.
Same principles in running ac/furnace duct work i believe. I would think the question would be what would be the max length of the exhaust pipe before you start restricting
Heck, almost not quite the same thing with electrical wire.. 10 gauge 30amp? But what if 5000 foot long run?
So i would think, 5" exhaust is better than 4" Lessening the restriction (length of pipe)
If the fan had an output of 4" and a 100 foot run of 4" pvc pipe. The pipe run(distance) would be the restricting factor.. The air would bottle neck because it would run out of power to continue its journey the rest of the way and have to be "pushed" Using a 5" pvc or 6". Would be lesser a restriction. That is why Fans have specs on min size and max distance, As such of a dryer vent. Or Sub pump. before they loose efficiency.
Same principles in running ac/furnace duct work i believe. I would think the question would be what would be the max length of the exhaust pipe before you start restricting
Heck, almost not quite the same thing with electrical wire.. 10 gauge 30amp? But what if 5000 foot long run?
So i would think, 5" exhaust is better than 4" Lessening the restriction (length of pipe)
#25
Did some other reading.
4" is plenty for up to 500 hp.
Shown that 5" looses some torque and slight Hp drop. at different RPM's.
Exhaust, Ah, A whole science in itself. If you going to be through money at the tail end of the exhaust, There is a point of wasting money without throwing money in the air intake side.
I have a 4" in my future. But that is it. Just to help a bit from towing. I don't have any mods on the intake side except a 6647.
4" is plenty for up to 500 hp.
Shown that 5" looses some torque and slight Hp drop. at different RPM's.
Exhaust, Ah, A whole science in itself. If you going to be through money at the tail end of the exhaust, There is a point of wasting money without throwing money in the air intake side.
I have a 4" in my future. But that is it. Just to help a bit from towing. I don't have any mods on the intake side except a 6647.
#27
I am not an expert on these trucks, nor am I a certified mechanic - so factor that into my statements here. I am a trained observer with AE and a sharp eye on my gauges while doing specific things on the same 45-mile drive to/from work every day.
I'm still collecting AE data after installing a 4" turbo-back exhaust with a Flo-Pro 6192 muffler, but I have one stark observation to share (80e Tune, red line disconnected, mods in sig.)
Increasing the exhaust diameter from 3.5" to 4" may make one feel like saying "Big whoop - only a 1/2 inch increase. I want more". Our friend pi reveals how much change 1/2" really is. The formula for measuring area in a circle is pi R squared. In casual terms, the area in a 4" pipe is 31% larger than a 3.5" pipe. Add that 31% to 20 PSI and you end up very close to 27 PSI. The exhaust math really applies to the drive side of the turbo, but the boost side is the one with the gauge - so I'm using that as a reference.
The 4" exhaust (with the correct non-restricing muffler) is "tuned" to give my truck the maximum performance, without being overkill. The only reason I can see for going bigger than 4" exhaust is if I wanted more than 27 PSI boost, but I would need to mega-mod the truck. Bigger sticks, more intake air than the AIS provides, bigger turbo, eliminate the wastegate altogether, bigger HPOP, more tuning, BTS or JW transmission, and the list goes on. That ain't gunna happen over here.
If you're looking for a 5" exhaust, why stop there? Go 12"... if size matters. If sound is the thing, ask who likes the sound of the 5". If towing EGTs are a concern, I don't have that info. If performance is the goal, the extra inch won't do a bit more good until you really pony up - in more ways than one.
$0.02
I'm still collecting AE data after installing a 4" turbo-back exhaust with a Flo-Pro 6192 muffler, but I have one stark observation to share (80e Tune, red line disconnected, mods in sig.)
- Stock WOT - boost leaps to 20 PSI and slowly climbs to 27 PSI as RPMs build (27 is max because wastegate bleeds excess).
- 4" WOT - boost leaps to 27 PSI right freaking now and stays there.
Increasing the exhaust diameter from 3.5" to 4" may make one feel like saying "Big whoop - only a 1/2 inch increase. I want more". Our friend pi reveals how much change 1/2" really is. The formula for measuring area in a circle is pi R squared. In casual terms, the area in a 4" pipe is 31% larger than a 3.5" pipe. Add that 31% to 20 PSI and you end up very close to 27 PSI. The exhaust math really applies to the drive side of the turbo, but the boost side is the one with the gauge - so I'm using that as a reference.
The 4" exhaust (with the correct non-restricing muffler) is "tuned" to give my truck the maximum performance, without being overkill. The only reason I can see for going bigger than 4" exhaust is if I wanted more than 27 PSI boost, but I would need to mega-mod the truck. Bigger sticks, more intake air than the AIS provides, bigger turbo, eliminate the wastegate altogether, bigger HPOP, more tuning, BTS or JW transmission, and the list goes on. That ain't gunna happen over here.
If you're looking for a 5" exhaust, why stop there? Go 12"... if size matters. If sound is the thing, ask who likes the sound of the 5". If towing EGTs are a concern, I don't have that info. If performance is the goal, the extra inch won't do a bit more good until you really pony up - in more ways than one.
$0.02
#28
#30