hydraulic versus mechanical brake switch
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Had the same problem,my hydraulic switch died last year. The part I used is from Watson's streetworks out of Connecticut. It's part #L08. All stainless, water proof with an adjustable design. Go to thier web site Watson's StreetWorks proudly manufactures and/or carries the following fine products: 6-to-12 Volt Convertor, 80 Amp Relay Kit, Actuators, Anti-Theft Kits, Battery Disconnects, Battery Jumper Studs, Bear Claw Door Prop Rods, Bear Claw Latches, Bear C. They explain why the hydraulic switches fail. It's worked fine for me. The nice thing about a mechanical switch is that it turns your brake lights on as soon as you touch the brake pedal, doesn't need any hydrualic pressure to work. Hope that helps
#4
#5
I have experienced several pressure type brake switch failures where never a mechanically activated switch problem. The pressure type switch is prone to corrosion failure from contaminated brake fluids. Brake fluid, being hygroscopic, draws moisture, exacerbates the switch failure. That same contaminated brake fluid shortens the life of all brake components. A real good reason to change brake fluid. Disclaimer. I've been around, played with this stuff old for many years. Change the switch and purge the brake system.
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#8
I'm using a mech switch, mainly because I forgot to plum a hyd switch into the system. I'm using a "hot rod" store lever actuated switch, which is just an early 60's or late 50's chevy switch with an adjustable roller bolted onto it. Same switch as oldtimers post above with the adjust portion added.
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Ryan Sigman
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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01-24-2013 06:17 PM
Last Chance 55
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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07-19-2007 07:20 AM