I'm seriously hoping to really be able to build up my truck this year, and I would like to do it good and proper and would like to double check my thinking before I dive in.

I'm pretty sure my frame is slightly out of wack; is it easier to straighten with everything off of it or is it one of those deals that it's helpful to keep the wheels on? I think it might have a small twist and I think the driver's side was pushed back a little bit (so it's not square). My thought was to take everything off and then get it straightened out, but maybe there is a better way?

I will be swapping out the axles and powertrain as well. My thought was it would be easiest to do this on just the chassis and then put the fenders on afterwards, but I don't know if I should have the cab on first to help make sure the front is where it's supposed to go (I was thinking of moving it forward and inch or so to be centered in the wheel well, I'm not sure why it's set back in it)

Then test fit the cab or maybe just still have it on if I can fix the frame that way still. Then remove it and get it painted and all that jazz. Put it back on, do the wiring in the cab, get things hook up, do the steering (might test fit that but I imagine it's much easier working behind the dash without the column or pedals there), attach the front clip and bed, finish wiring, and finish with attaching the running boards and finishing out the interior.

I'm thinking it would be easier to do most of the interior before the steering wheel and bench seat is back in, as well as the glass work.


So, anyone done it? Am I missing something? Anything easier to do before doing something else? Better way to go about it? Opinions or am I on track with my thinking? (trying to avoid the "well, you really should have done this before doing that" )

Thanks. And yes, there will be pictures, so many pictures. lol.

 

I have built wrecks for a living for many years. You need to drop by some shop that does a lot of frame work. Likely for about 300 or less you can have the frame checked and pulled if it needs it.
You can check the frame yourself, but if it's off you wouldn't have any way to fix it. You need to find a old shop with a frame guy about to retire. That old ford frame will pull fairly easy on a good frame machine.
I would have the frame pulled while it's together and he can use the body to check how the frame looks after he pulls it.
Just my thoughts but opinions will vary.
Larry

 

Sounds like a plan. Everything I could think of to fix it strikes me as something I'd rather pay someone else to do, lol. I thought it might be easier to work with when it's off, but I bet that F600 frame weighs a ton.

 

Larry is right about methods and opinions, I don't want to cloud the issue but I like measuring these frames when they are bare. It may be a dinosaur way to do it but you will learn so much about your truck, you will be amazed. I use jack stands at each corner. Measure the frame diagonally and if it's off you can pull it into alignment with a come along. Level it all the corners, using weights if you have to and weld it up. For my money, box it front to rear! If there are bows or low spots in the rails, then you will definitely need a frame machine. No matter how you decide to do it, MAKE THE FRAME RIGHT, if you don't, everything else is a crap shoot and a guessing game. LOL

Oh wow, post #2222, just noticed that!

 

The frames are very soft and really bend fairly easy. The hard part is getting them stationary so you can pull them without a frame machine. With a frame machine you can tie the frame and bend and pull where you need to. Your biggest issue will be finding someone that is old enough to know how to do one of these. They are not like working on a new frame or uni body vehicle.
People get all in a bunch over frame damage and it's not a biggy. on new or old stuff.
The ford ranger (2008)I drive was twisted so bad the right front wheel was about 6 inches off the floor and the bed was into the cab corners. Pulled it around and was bent in 9 different places. Been driving it for over 50,000 miles on the same tires I bough it with, so no doubt it is back to specs. It had gone off the road and bounced over a bunch of rocks and tree stumps.
My 55 was evidently wrecked at some point in it's life and the frame was diamond shaped about 3 inches and had been driven that way for no telling how long. Just unbolted the cab and tied it down on my machine and pulled it back square. Then I had to reline the cab and fenders. If you start with the frame square then every thing you do after that will be easier to get square and true. A good old time frame guy can get your truck within a 1/64th of a inch and I guarantee you that is better than they came from the factory. Before I stopped doing public work I had new car dealers bring in new cars to have the frames tugged so they could get the doors and fenders to line up. They were bent from the factory or bent in transit from the truck drivers tieing then down too tight.
Larry

 

Hi Steven ,
I personally think Larry is right. You could possibly do it yourself but I think a place with the proper know how and equipment is a much better bet.
As for the front wheels not being centered in the fenders, I could be wrong, but wouldn't you have to move the cab back to get the wheels centered in the fender opening? One way or the other in my opinion and again I could be wrong but I think it would be better to move the spring hangers. Of course you would have to have a machine shop cut the drag link in half and thread both ends then make a threaded collar with jam nuts so the drag link can be shortened or lengthened.
If you move the cab you would need to also move the cab mounts, steering box, running board brackets and numerous other things.
Again I could be wrong but it does give you more to think about (just what you needed ). Hopefully someone will come along with some better ideas. Good luck.

 

On the front wheel center they are too close to the cab and would move closer to the front bumper to center in the wheel well. I still am not sure why they put it farther towards the cab and I know some people have centered theirs. I will be putting in a whole new axle as it's a 4x4 build, but depending on what I can find I might switch from the leaf suspension to something more modern.

I'll have to look into finding someone to do the frame. I'd rather see it done with the right tools, but if I can't I'll need to learn a bit more about it. I have a few techniques I use in my blacksmith shop for doing similar things to smaller frames, but I'm not sure how much torque I will end up needing to straighten it, or especially where they seem to be shifted where one is more forward that the other. lol, maybe I will just drive it into a tree (kidding of course).

 

As an old body shop veteran myself, I'll just add that Larry is right on the money here. He has excellent advice.