I've seen many posts about earlier models with radiator issues, but my understanding is that they were pretty much limited to those models and the 4.0l engine and that the issue was fixed by the 2008 models.

I've got a coolant leak on the drivers side of the radiator. I don't drive the vehicle that much because I use it primarily for towing in the good weather seasons. I drive it once a week unless we have snow than I drive it more.

I have seen small amounts of coolant (yellow/gold) in the snow when parked. It does not appear to be very much, but it does concern me.

Anyway, here is a link to some pictures:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1039561...eat=directlink

I was hoping someone might have some suggestions as to where to look for this leak. I looked from the bottom and the top (without access to a lift) and I couldn't see anything revealing.

Any thoughts appreciated...

P.../NH

 

You might check with your local parts store to see if they have a cooling system pressure tester in their Loan A Tool program. If so, you can pressurize the cold cooling system to the same amount as the pressure cap and that usually will allow you to spot the leak, assuming you have line of site to the area.

-Rod

 

Adding fluorescent dye to the cooling system makes locating leak easier... Philip

 

Well, I got a little better look at it. It is definitely on the drivers side. Regardless of where it is, my understanding is that with newer radiators, the tanks are plastic and crimped on, thus, unrepairable. So, I am left with

1. Replace it outright.
2. Let it go until it gets worse. I got the car last April (2011) and have logged about 6000 miles. Half of that towing a 6000 lb trailer. It has lost less than a half gallon of coolant in that time. I didn't didn't notice it was low (coolant low in the tank) until November of 2011.
3. Try some kind of stop leak.

I am starting to think that the previous dealer may have tried the stop leak bit in an effort to not have to replace the radiator under warranty.

See the first three pictures in this series:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1039561...eat=directlink

This "junk" is in the overflow tank only. It is only on the sides, and above the fluid line. It is not dissolved in the coolant or floating on the top. It is NOT in the radiator at all.

The Ford shop manual "mentions" stop leak pellets several times. But does not say specifically what product it is or when to use them or if it is even OK to use them. It does say that it will darken the color of the coolant slightly. I am old school. I think the last time I use any kind of stop leak was 35 years ago. Either a liquid or a powder. We were cautioned back then that these products would only work on certain kinds of leaks, and could potentially clog the cooling system up.

Anyone ever use any of the current stop leak products?

Just let it go until it becomes a full blown leak?

Any comments welcome.

Thanks

 

Are you still under any warranty or ESP?

 

Regretfully, no. I wish I did. I've got a snapped #1 exhaust manifold bolt too.

 

Looks like both issues are priorities.
You did say that this truck is not a primary vehicle.

Replace the rad., flush the system while you are at it and repair that bolt asap.
A good exhaust shop can help with that bolt, if
Your patience is as short as mine is.

 

Update:

I got under the car this weekend to have a look-see. I partially removed the lower fan shroud (drivers side) and pried it up and took a few pictures. I also removed the front splash guard to get a look up in front too.

See my pictures here: I put the newer ones up front.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1039561...eat=directlink

Looks like there is coolant on both the radiator (in the back) and the condenser (in the front).

I have two questions.

1. If my coolant in the overflow tank AND the radiator is *GOLD*. Why is there green leaking at the bottom of the radiator?

2. If I have to replace the radiator, the manual says there are special tools needed for the transmission lines and the fan clutch bolt(s).

2A. Can I substitute anything to remove the transmission lines?

2B. Do I *really* need to take the fan and fan clutch out to replace the radiator?

Thanks for anything you might be able to offer.... .

p-------

 

FWIW, I have repaired several ford radiators that leaked between the aluminum cooler and the plastic tanks..

Gently pry the tabs enough to clear the base plate(ends of cooling core), clean the plate, channel and gasket. Check and clean the cooling channels if required.

Apply high temp silicone to the channel and gasket, set tank on plate, secure lightly and let set overnight. When silicon is set tighten the tabs, presto no more leaks....

I have a 92 that I resealed in 2000, that is still leak free...... Philip

 

Update:. Weekend tear down (and a UV light with yellow glasses) revealed a leaking condenser. I didn't have access to the necessary Robinair refrigerant machine to do the job, so I brought the car to my local guy that did.

We both worked on it. R134 was down by a little less than half of a charge. AC still blew cold though. Radiator was fine. Now it blows REALLY cold, and so far no leak. Will keep you posted if necessary..

P.../NH

 

I am on my third radiator in my 2008 Explorer. I have seen posts on the web that this is a common problem with this vintage Explorer. There has to be something wrong with the mounting that perpetuates this problem. Can't get the dealerships to take that into the replacement. At least I have the warranty on this latest leak.