I am new to this part of the forum, I have been around at the 1948-1956 F100 forum for some years.
Now I have decided to go with the old "heart" 272 instead of spending my money on any of the windsor or later models. I saw some renovation picture around here on a old 272 and I really liked the lookes sound and history of the old y-block.
So now I have been looking around here in Sweden where i live, for a machine shop that can make the mahining on the block, crank, conncting rods and heads.
I found it quite expensive (just the machining job). What I asked for was this:
Bore from 272 to 292
New cam bearings
Convert to unleaded fuel
"No rocker arm assembly work at all"
Refurnished at the big end and new bushings in the small end.
No material included at all just work.
Does any one here know apporximately how much this would cost in the states at a good machineshop that has some pride in delivering a good work.
Here is a list of work I had done a year ago:
Hot tank block 50.00
Check main bore alignment, deck, bore taper 50.00
Magnaflux block 35.00
Sonic test block for cylinder thickness 50.00
Align hone mains 125.00
Cylinder rebore 145.00
Surfacing of block deck 125.00
Lay in crank and check deck height with new rods and pistons
performed twice 50.00X2= 100.00
Check rod big ends and pins 64.00
Balance crank 175.00
remove and replace cam bearings 35.00
Remove and replace core plugs 18.00
Machine 6cc from piston domes 100.00
Grind crank bearing journals 125.00
As for head work, cost can be all over the place. It depends upon what needs to be done. Surfacing heads generally runs $75/pr. in this town. Installation of hardened seats is $8 each if I remember right. Dont remember cost of seat grinding. Setting installed spring height I do myself. If guides are required that of course is more, but dont recall cost.
I received a deal that wont be repeated on a pair of heads recently. New seats in ex. and intakes, several new guides, surfaced, seats and valves ground, $165. Special attention had to be given to the intake seats on one G head, because I was going to be using 1.78 in. intake valves, to match the existing 1.78 in. intakes on the other head, a 113.
If the shop here does a final block assembly, I think the charge is $150.
If I sum it all up and ad some for Work you didnīt have a cost for. I did som approximation Iīll ended up with $926 for the specified work I planned and with some extra lets say $574 it still ends up at half what I have been quoted from 2 different shops........
JESUS I live in the wrong country...well I believe itīs the high taxes for companies here in Sweden that ends up with this kind of S..t.
The 272 is currently running in my pickup but it looks and sound like it is in a need for an overhaul. And i have found som really nice ideas on here and at Y-block forever.
Jimmy, your figure would cover things over here. One expense I didnt show was rebuilding rods. The engine was a 312 so new rods were a better choice than rebuilding. Rehab of original rods runs easily $200. However one person on y's4ver is getting a set done for $64! Doubt if that would include new sized pin bushings. On a previous engine, removal/installation of rod bushings and sizing them cost me $100, which included the new parts. Best of luck. Followup on Charlie's reference to the Hollow head guys. They may be a big help.
Yes you can use the original heads. Look on ebay and see how much cores are running. I have a fair number of rods myself. Cores shouldnt be much, say 30.00. The C2AE are the strongest, but the earlier EBU shouldnt be an issue in a stock pickup.
They could be. I'm not sure about some of the clearances, though. There's about .008" difference in the rod lengths and nearly .001 on the big end bores. I'm no machinist so maybe I'm wrong but that seems kinda half a$$ed.
Try contacting John Mummert, ford-y-block.com, or Ted Eaton, eatonbalancing.com, or Tim Mcmaster, yblockguy.com. All three of them are well respected in the Y world. All three build Y Blocks professionally. I believe John has new connecting rods available.
The price is too good. Variances in lengths are common on quick rod jobs. Another cause of different lengths is a broken set, with the rods being from two or more different engines. Big ends can be more out of round on one group and less out of round on another. Each time a rod is resized on it's big end, its overall length decreases a little. The more out of round, the shorter the end result. A variation of .001 on the big end is not acceptable. So the cheap rebuilds may end up little better than what you have. I believe to balance my set of rods cost $75 alone.
Ted, John, and Tim are without doubt great. As are other machinists. It doesnt require a specialist in Y's to properly recondition rods, but a skilled automotive machinist with proper equipment. For an overseas customer, any of the three would be a good idea.
Acceptable variations in taper, roundness and in comparing rod to rod should not exceed .0002. When these levels of precision are in place even ambient temps are an issue. Differences in temperature can throw off the measurements and machine work. So a machinist wouldnt want to rework 4 rods one day at 65 degrees, and come back the next afternoon to finish the last 4 at at 90 degrees.
It no deal for me then. I was thinking maybe its worth it to buy an old used motor over ther and have som of the three mentioned renovate a longblock and have it sent over here. It sound like itīs cheaper and i will end up with a better result ....maybe
I have been looking aroundhere at home and talking to professional shops that renovates old american iron on a regular basis and no one can recomed a good machine shop. They say the work have been average and that they dont know what to do. I was amazed about the answeres as there are quite a few old american car here in sweden..????
So I dont realy know what to do. Keep on looking or maybe talk to some of the three and hear what they can offer??