Thank you guys for your advise I will have my friends to come over to Carne asada then work in the truck and get cab off the frame have dolly already built of wood so I move cab to work on it. Any one has an idea how much will be for sandblasting cab. Did someone did sandblasting him self I have seen some blasting machines for sale on eBay do they work .

 

I did all the prep work on the underside of my cab including primer and seam sealing...then I sprayed the whole thing with bedliner. This is the same stuff the pro shops use, very durable.

 

That looks good I would like to paint it the color of the truck wich don't know yet vin number code for color is "M". Yellow but I no sure yet.

 

Bedliner can be painted with whatever paint that you are using on the rest of the truck...the only trick is to use the proper adhesion promoter before you paint. I thought about painting the underside of my cab but then I thought, who's ever going to see it?

Here is a pic of a buddy's running board that he painted after having it sprayed with Rhino lining.

 

Wow that looks great you won't believe me but thats the color I want for mi 56 custom cab. Have a picture from Internet of a truck with that color love it how is it call and what kind of paint did you use like the wheels . I'm going three inches lower how much low did you go

 

You DEFINITELY do NOT want to sandblast your cab, at least not with sand! There are other media that are suitable to use such as walnut shell or soda blasting (requires a specialized blaster) that are much easier on the metal.
The DIY blasters work, but you will need a quite large compressor for doing any blasting of more than small parts. You can rent a large industrial gasoline powered trailered compressor and blasting setup for a day if you want to do it yourself, just use the right media and proper technique, but you can do a lot of damage if you do it wrong, it's extremely messy, and you must be ready to prime or coat it with rust preventative immediately after blasting or it will start rusting again overnight or anywhere you touch it. I'd suggest having it done by someone with a lot of experience with paint removal on old vehicles who can prime it as well. DON'T go to someone who primarily cleans buildings or etches cemetery stones just because he works cheap. I'd check with some of the local hot rod or restoration shops for recommendation of a skilled blaster. A soda or shell blasting of a cab, doors, and fenders with priming or rust preventative treatment is typically around 1000.00.

 

Thanks x racer I could say my cab is clean no rust at all. Is there any other technique to get rid off the paint and dirt on the under cab and iner fender well.

 

Got my cab off the frame was easier than I expected. Took 4 guys one each corner two beers and good plate of Carne asada. Had everything ready no doors no glass just the cab shell it self. I used a floor jack and some pieces of wood on both sides of cab brace to hold it in place while I removed rear arms mounts then the rest was very simple we just lifted and put it in a dolly I had already built. Found a place in el monte CA. Walnut shell or soda blasting for 900 bucks whole truck no frame. Does some one can tell me what to do after soda blasting cleaning process before priming and what primer is the best thanks guys for your time wait for reply thanks

 

The blaster should clean it out for you, otherwise use vacuum and compressed air to remove any powder residue then give it a good phosphate wash. Handle only with clean cotton or rubber gloves until primed. Prime ASAP. Wash once again with prep sol just before priming. I'd recommend a self etching or direct to metal 2K primer. Ask your paint supplier for recommendation that will be compatible with whatever you'll be using over it and with whatever painting equipment and breathing protection you'll be using. Some paint's fumes are seriously deadly!

 

I will xracer thanks by the way is there any paint for chassis and suspension parts you recommend How about eastwood xtreme chassis and what primer

 

It really depends a lot on what type of finish you desire, how much maintenance you want to do, they type and amount of driving you will do, weather, road quality etc.. You could break it down into several basic groups:
Show quality. High gloss exterior body quality finish, not especially chip or chemical resistant, easily cleaned, moderately repairable. Use same products as body exterior paint: 2K primer, catalyzed base coat/clear coat over bare metal finished as smooth as body exterior.

High durability/low maintenance: Highly chip resistant, textured surface, low gloss, easily cleaned moderately repairable. Self etching primer over bare metal, top coated with bed liner type material such as Lizard Skin, or chip resistant finish. For a smooth but thinner finish a moisture cure urethane industrial finish. (this would be my choice)

Inexpensive: high gloss dulling with age, high maintenance, easily repairable. Apply to cleaned dirt/grease free metal, sand or blast off any loose rust/old paint. Treat all metal with rust converter. Use self etching primer, spray or thin with 1/2 as much solvent as for spraying and brush coat. Top with single stage enamel or moistured cure urethane brushed or sprayed.

Nothing against Eastwood, but their products are just relabeled commercial products marked up for the convenience of novices. If you would rather pay for the convenience of not having to research products their stuff usually works as described.

POR 15 is just moisture cured urethane.

My suggestion is to go talk to your local industrial coatings sales rep (NOT the counter guy) for a company like Sherwin Williams or Dupont.