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Old 03-12-2012, 04:24 PM
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jimbob911 jimbob911 is offline
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2010 Extended Cab Rear Door Stuck Shut

2010 Super Duty "EXTENDED CAB" 28,000 miles, no rust. Driver's side rear door stuck shut. Neither of the latch handles (the front side of the door or the one in the rear arm rest) will allow door to open. Nothing stuck or pinched in the door. Top of the door seems free, bottom latch seems to be stuck latched and will not release.

Is this a common problem with the Super Duty extended cabs? I keep all my sensitive electronic test equipment back there, and it makes the access darn tough when the door won't open.

I thought we were going to get away from having to go to the dealer multiple times per year when we traded our old "02 work truck w/ 200K + for a low mileage 2010 SD, but so far this has not been the case.

Third trip to the garage since November.

At least it's under warranty but jeez. It's a work truck. It can't do any work when it's sitting in the repair bay.

Jim
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:01 PM
GreenPSD GreenPSD is offline
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The older trucks, like my 2000, have this problem over time. I had to remove the door panel and use a zip tie to tighten the cable. Not sure about the newer ones. My 2006 has not had this problem. I found the fix by doing a search on this forum.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:19 PM
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jimbob911 jimbob911 is offline
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I'm pretty disappointed with the repair this time.

"The cable came off for some reason".

Repaired under warranty. No new parts installed.

This is going to prevent the cable coming off again in the future, how?

Though the previous 2 repairs were fine, I'm inclined to think this repair was, "I hope it stays on until the warranty expires". That door gets a lot of use as a service truck. We'll see.

Jim
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:09 PM
Dave G. Dave G. is offline
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I don't remember exactly what the bottom latch looked like, but, I do remember that the latch cable travel was adjusted with threads at the bottom latch, and the way it was designed, lot's of rough road driving would gradually vibrate the adjustment. This extended the length of the cable, and eventually there wasn't enough travel to disengage the lower latch. To access it, I had to start at the top of the door on the inside, and remove the plastic trim parts, and work my way down to the bottom door panel. 5 min. fix, once I got it uncovered. I assume yours is similar since you have the same problem.

Dave
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:39 PM
hunter301 hunter301 is offline
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Truck specs:
2000 F-250 extended cab 7.3 turbo diesel.
I have the same problem only now it's with both rear doors. Problem is I can't figure out how to get the door to unlatch so I can open it to take the door panels off to work on it.
Any suggestions?
I would like to get both doors fixed this weekend. This is my work truck and I am constantly going in and out of the rear seat, or at least I used to...this sucks!!
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:14 PM
GreenPSD GreenPSD is offline
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If it will not unlatch from the top, you can remove "door jam" piece that the door locks on and attaches to the cab. You will have to remove the trim piece that covers it. This will allow you to open the door. If it will not unlatch from the bottom, no such luck. But you can get the door panel off without opening the door. I had to get into the back and work on my knees. Now if both doors are closed, then I guess you will have to climb over the seat. When you get the panel off, pull on the cable in several different directions until you get it to release. Good luck.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:23 PM
Dave G. Dave G. is offline
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That's what I did. All from the back seat. Start at the top of the door, and remove trim, working towards the bottom. It isn't that hard of a job, but you either need a trim removal tool ( or a stiff putty knife ), and don't do it when the plastic is cold. The older the parts are, the easier they snap, especially when cold.

Dave
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:46 PM
tomherrick tomherrick is offline
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2004 extended cab; right rear door won't open; top latch releases; bottom won't. I've checked the lower cable and it works fine when I pull the latch handle. The whole area is rusty; bottom of door, striker, probably the latch mechanism. Thanks to an interior sheet metal brace I can't see or reach much of the latch. I can feel where the cable stop fits into the mechanism, but not where the cable ball slides into the latch actuator. And, the latch actuator doesn't seem to move when I try to operate it by hand; at least I think I've got a hold of it. Could be something else since I can't see. I've looked at pictures of the mechanism and it seems pretty straight forward. Bottom line is that my door is still latched and a truck is kinda hard to sell like that...

Suggestions?
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:20 PM
Dave G. Dave G. is offline
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tomherrick

It's been a few years since I fixed mine. Same door, same problem.

As I recall, I had to start removing inside trim parts from the door, starting at the top, and working down from there. Some fasteners are covered by the trim above them.

The connection at the lower end of the cable threads into a nylon fitting. Mine was a loose fit, and vibration on all the lumpy roads around here changed the adjustment. First it was just sticking, then sticking worse but pushing on the door from the outside, while pulling the door latch handle sometimes would release the lower latch. Eventually, that didn't even work.

I didn't replace anything, just removed the trim, readjusted the cable, and that was 5-6 years ago.

Dave
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:20 PM
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