It looks like my new carburetor will be here today. If it comes in soon, i'll install it and post some new pics. Thanks again, you guys are life savers!

 

I just checked parts for your truck on RockAuto Auto Parts - they have EGR valves and distributor check valves.

 

Your truck has a C5 automatic. Three forward gears, one reverse gear, no overdrive.

All the PCV fitting is is a manifold vacuum port. You can hook the PCV next to the port where the brake booster is hooked up on the vacuum tree if you want. It doesn't matter, so long as it's manifold vacuum and it's the right size.

You can TRY and hook the EGR back up if you want, but you'll need to find a WOT (Wide Open Throttle valve) from off of a Carter YFA at the junkyard. It's mounted on the front of the carburetor above the throttle lever, next to where the fuel line runs to the bowl.

From there, it's a matter of running the EGR lines correctly to hook it up.

The EGR line goes to the water actuated vacuum switch off of the heater hose (at the front of the motor). An F connector comes off of the hose running to the EGR and plugs into the WOT valve mounted on the carburetor (which acts as a mechanism to remove vacuum off of the EGR to close it when you punch the gas pedal), from the temperature switch, you run another line to manifold vacuum, then the top of the switch looks like you run another line to ported vacuum (it might be manifold on the throttle plate of the carb, I can't tell).

I THINK that's how it's run. You can ask WillyJoe to verify for you how it's run if you need.

Then your EGR should be hooked up.

It's important to note that your distributor from the factory is calibrated so that it's designed to run with an EGR, so that your vehicle doesn't knock or ping or do anything out of the ordinary. The EGR will give you better mileage when cruising because it makes the motor act smaller than it really is, and contrary to popular belief, the way the EGR is set up on this year 300, it won't take any power from you to have it hooked up.

 

OK then. I don't think I'm going to worry about the EGR for now, until I get everything else figured out.

So after looking at the bolt pattern for the C4/C5, that looks like the one in my truck. My next question is should I mess with the linkage on the manifold, and do I need to leave the vacuum line on the firewall hooked up?

 

I'm heading out to the garage shortly to take more photos. There are assorted valves in the vac system, but not on the vac line that runs from the distributor over the valve cover to the other side of the carb (see photo); that (yellow) line is completely unimpeded, at least on my system. Given the complete and utter neglect demonstrated by the PO, in that this engine was hardly ever touched, I'm 99% certain it's factory stock.

You will find these two threads EXTREMELY useful, so much so that there's little point in me photographing it all over again.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-acronyms.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...questions.html

 

Alright, that solves the dist. vacuum mystery. Those 2 links were very helpful, thanks!

I'm starting to better understand the vacuum situation. Someone before me really f-ed that up! Now I just really need to know more about that random linkage, and what I sould do with it.

The UPS guy just dropped off my new carb, pics to come soon.

 

I pulled the air cleaner to get some shots underneath, and the front of the carb - hope these are helpful --

 

Extremely nice photos, WilleyJoe.62!

 

Yes, his photos are outstanding!

Ok, here are pics of the new carb next to the old carb. Old one is on the left:






The thing attached to the new carb with the vacuum hose on it is called the dashpot, according to my rebuild instructions. What is its purpose?

 

Sweet!

I learned a lot from this site, even though it's not my carb:
Motorcraft 2150 2V Theory and operation

"A dashpot causes the throttle plates to close slowly for the last few degrees of throttle shaft rotation, as they approach full-closed throttle (e.g., under deceleration). Dashpots were introduced as an emissions control device to reduce excess hydrocarbon (HC) emissions caused by over-rich fuel/air mixtures at closed throttle.

A dashpot is a small air chamber with an internal diaphragm, a push rod, and a bleed orifice. As the throttle closes, the throttle lever contacts the push rod and applies force from the throttle return spring to the diaphragm, which pushes air out of the chamber through the bleed orifice to slowly allow the throttle to drop to its idle position. "

 

As for photos, it's a little red Kodak 7.2 megapixel camera, about 4 years old. I plug in the USB cable on the 'puter, turn it on, it immediately dumps the latest pics into a folder; then I open them in the very basic Paint program, resize 'em, and they're ready to post.

 

Cool. Learning is fun!

If anyone can weigh in on that linkage, please do. I'm really stumped there. I could also use a photo of how the choke heat is run from the carb, and where it plugs into the manifold. I've seen other posts on here where people make new lines for the choke stove out of hard brake line or copper tubing, and since I don't have the original lines, I'm going to have to do that. I just need to see where they go into the manifold.

When I get more time later this week, I'll start to re-connect all of the vacuum lines I need, and get the new carb installed. I will update this thread once I do, and I'll post some more pics just because. Thanks again!

 

There is a choke stove chamber made into the exhaust manifold. This chamber will have a hole in the bottom for the fresh air tube, and a hole in the top for the hot air tube. Filtered air is drawn from the carburetor air horn and down the fresh air tube where it passes through the choke stove chamber. From there the filtered air, now hot because it passed through the chamber, routes up to the choke cap through the hot air tube, which is insulated to help hold in the heat.



These tubes typically rust off and break in the holes of the choke stove chamber, making removal of the tubes very difficult. You will have to remove the manifold to get the broken ends out. Or you can go to any auto parts store and ask for a Choke Stove Kit. They can usually be found in the Help! section.

Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 3665 Choke Stove Kit: Automotive

It comes with a length of coiled up aluminum tubing that you can easily bend by hand, the hot air tube insulation, the hardware to mount the tube to the choke cap, and a little "dome" with a hole in one end for the tubing to push into. This dome acts as the choke stove chamber and clamps to the exhaust manifold or header pipe to trap the hot air when the engine is running and routes the hot air up to the choke cap.

The only difference is the universal Choke Stove Kit doesn't use the fresh air portion of the stock hot air choke at all. It is intended to provide outside hot air to the choke. Very simple to install and works great.

 

I'm not a transmission expert, but that linkage on the intake manifold is more than likely the "kick-down" linkage for your transmission. From what I've heard/read, the C series automatics shift via a modulator valve that reads the vacuum signal to help change the gears.

The kick-down linkage's job is what enables you to pass other cars easier. When you jam your foot into the gas pedal to pass someone or to go up a steep hill while towing, the kick-down linkage shifts the transmission from 3rd to 2nd or from 2nd to 1st in order to get the RPM's of a motor up near peak horsepower/peak torque. This enables the vehicle to pull better and have faster acceleration/power.

There are probably some threads on here about the C5's, so you should do some digging with the search function to see what you can find.

 

Lariat, I will look into the universal choke stove. Sounds like the easiest solution to me. Thanks for the recommendation! I will also do some more digging on the transmission. I appreciate the help.