I borrowed a BullyDog PowerPup and read some extended codes. The check engine light is not on, and no codes can be pulled from a normal code scanner. With the Pup I found:
I think the P0528 is Fan Speed Sensor, maybe it is missing and that is what the mysterious wire pictured above goes to.
The best part is it died on me on the way home from work today…only for about a second and it started back up on its own. I don’t think it is fuel pump related, when it happens it fills the cylinders with fuel.
U0408 Invalid Data Received from Throttle Actuator Control Module *more than likely the EGR throttle plate unplugged or not functioning properly*
U0400 Invalid Data Received
That plug you have dangling may go to the EGR throttle plate right below near the intake manifold.
__________________ Excursion & 6.7 Forum ModDeath Row Inmate #21 The Monster: 2005 Ford Excursion Limited, 4wd "The 6.0" Bulletproofed by Powerstroke Enginuities Straight pipe, Atlas 40, Heavily RiffRaff'd, and Gearheaded Rudolph: 2001 Ford Excursion Limited, 2wd, "The 7.3" Built with blood and sweat by Me and Riffraff Diesel, heavily modded, also Gearheaded FTE Guidelines
I thought I would come back and add some info to this post. I am still having issues and found this old post in my continued search for the answer.
I have not had time/funds for the Bullet Proofing that I want to do.
I did perform the wooden dowel poking and prodding of the wiring harness while it was running and it never fluctuated.
I changed the Camshaft Position sensor and it performed the same.
I bought a rebuilt FICM and the off the line stumble went away, but the other issues still persist.
I did find the wire that was loose went to the Clutch Fan, it had cut the wires and I would assume that someone had pulled the remains out of the connector. I had an old computer power supply which had correct color size and length of wire for me. I soldered them to the fan end and was able to disassemble the connector and put the plug back together. The fan has worked great ever since.
Note: I did notice that unplugging the batteries when I work on it seems to help. Every time I put it all back together it runs much better for a few days/miles/hours…then it starts up with the problems again.
There are two symptoms/issues:
**Problem #1 – Driving down the road, from a stop or at a constant speed the engine can “cutout” as a note of correction from my original post, it does not die completely. It drops down to about 600RPM and then spins back up to where it was. Sometimes this is a quick blip lasting less than a second, and other times this can last 3-4 seconds and cycle up and down a few times.
**Problem #2 – about 55 MPH it runs rough when maintaining a constant speed. If I accelerate it smoothes out and runs nice.
**Hypothesis - Problem #1 – I have been reading a lot about EBP and Turbo issues. I found info I am going to post here for how to test the EBP:
Normal EBP signal reading should reflect atmospheric pressure with the key on/ engine off. Typically, this is 14.7 PSI/0.88-0.9 volts at sea level, decreasing one PSI/0.10 volt for every 2000 feet of elevation. It should be within 0.5 PSI of BARO and MAP sensor pressure signals.
I will test it in the next few days and report back what I find.
**Hypothesis - Problem #2 – I suspect a bad or sticking injector.
Thank you all for the information and pointers I was given when this thread was started. I hope to add this info so that others can find their solutions.
UNLIMTD did you ever figure out your issue? I just started getting the exact same issue. I've worked on the FICM a few times and have a rebuilt one arriving tomorrow because I just don't trust it.
The power loss is new. I've been chasing hard start/no start/no power off the line while cold/stumbling while under slight load at speed. I had all that fixed after messing with the FICM a few times and suddenly tonight I started getting the same issue as you.
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