When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
have any of yall done the inner knuckle seal on the dana 60 units?? is it hard to do?? heard its a 1 time seal.. need to pull the driver side axle to change the ujoint there.. think thats where my lack of steering is coming in when the fronts locked.. if not the only place left it the carrier... but also need to replace the outer tube dust seal too on that side...
have any of yall done the inner knuckle seal on the dana 60 units?? is it hard to do?? heard its a 1 time seal.. need to pull the driver side axle to change the ujoint there.. think thats where my lack of steering is coming in when the fronts locked.. if not the only place left it the carrier... but also need to replace the outer tube dust seal too on that side...
They may have a sticky in the Super Duty forum just for that.
have any of yall done the inner knuckle seal on the dana 60 units?? is it hard to do?? heard its a 1 time seal.. need to pull the driver side axle to change the ujoint there.. think thats where my lack of steering is coming in when the fronts locked.. if not the only place left it the carrier... but also need to replace the outer tube dust seal too on that side...
I did not know this till I was in getting the tires rotated. My track bar bushing
and the ball joint that is at the other end or it were both shot. Not the knuckle
ball joints BTW.
It shows up when doing dry steering. Look under and move the wheel
with the engine running and see what both points are doing. There is a
kit for the busing from most all the players in the bushing world and also
a set from Ford. I called XRF to get an idea. They are under $30.00 for
the busing and about $35.00 for the ball joint. No need to replace the track
bar. The suck part is the bolt goes on at something around 400+ Ft/Lb
and it it not torqued to the right # the busing will wear early. The ball joint
is not the same as any of the others and has a smaller and longer shaft that
can cause problems when seating it.
I did not know this till I was in getting the tires rotated. My track bar bushing
and the ball joint that is at the other end or it were both shot. Not the knuckle
ball joints BTW.
It shows up when doing dry steering. Look under and move the wheel
with the engine running and see what both points are doing. There is a
kit for the busing from most all the players in the bushing world and also
a set from Ford. I called XRF to get an idea. They are under $30.00 for
the busing and about $35.00 for the ball joint. No need to replace the track
bar. The suck part is the bolt goes on at something around 400+ Ft/Lb
and it it not torqued to the right # the busing will wear early. The ball joint
is not the same as any of the others and has a smaller and longer shaft that
can cause problems when seating it.
dry steering i dont have a problem with since its always unlocked then.. its only when i have it locked in for ice and snow, off road (no im not rock crawling the truck, soft low traction ground, muddy roads.. ect ect) use that i cant turn the wheel without it fighting me.. with the forward drivetrain unlocked and free theres no issues at all... can turn the wheel stop to stop without an issue then... when its locked in i can hardly turn the wheel before it starts "binding"... and i do mean HARDLY... 1/4 turn of the steering wheel while moving at an idle craw (as if your going to make a wide left turn or a wide right turn) and you can feel the steering wheel kicking back in your hand... when i got the truck it wasnt this bad.. i could turn the wheel a good 3/4 turn before id start feeling it.. now anything less than going straight and its a fight..
I see. Like the spider gears are not moving like they should.
Any fuzz on the magnet? One other thought could there be a locker in the front
that you don't know about?
im suspecting ujoint on the driver side.. starting there... if it doesnt then ill start looking at the carrier.. something i wont be looking forward to
im suspecting ujoint on the driver side.. starting there... if it doesnt then ill start looking at the carrier.. something i wont be looking forward to
if thats the one just in front of the ujoint but behind the wheel hup id say yup... ive never had the front axle apart myself on this thing so cant say for sure...
Someone said i needed an attachment for a slide hammer to get the axel out but cant find one other than for discontinued tools that are no longer available. Any suggestoons for an easy removal???
07-23-2016, 02:46 PM
