I'm looking into this. I have strategy VXCF4NK and thinking hard about dropping the coin on an SCT tuner.
What strategy did you go with?

 

Well my day was not too bad after I had a phone chat with Per4mance on the phone. I got the tie and drag link
both off the knuckle. Before I called him I did get the unit bearing out of the way. Helps to have some blunt head
drivers for the pneumatic rivet gun. Leave the nut in place with all the threads covered and a few nice low pressure taps
and it out. Next up was the link and the same tool to pop it loose. The last thing was that back side vacuum seal. Best
word for that thing is "bitch" and all that is left is to drag the axel out of the tube with that silly plastic thingie on it.
Then it was onto pulling the knuckle out of it's home. The top ball joint was a rattler it was so loose. Put the puller on it
and a little heat and I get a nice pop as it moves. At this point is is dark out and I move inside and pop the ball joints
out of the knuckle. That is what I did today. I need to run to the store and get a a (36mm?) I think it was so I can torque
it down. Little hard getting the torque right with an open end wrench along with some sand paper or emery cloth to clean
up the axel for the new style dust seal. The instructions say to remove all the rust. I also want to vacuum all the crus out
of the tube. I really don't want that back in the pumpkin when I put the axel back in place.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

You have the best strategy to tune on.

 

I guess I'm off to a good start then! What do you know about my FICM strategy or anything else from the pic below. Thanks for info, appreciated.




Strategies

 

Per Timbo, you do indeed have the best strategy for tuning. Your FICM calibration is the first inductive heating strategy.

 

And the only thing I know about the FIRST inductive heat strategy is that it's a FICM killer.

I'd have the FICM reflashed and get Mr. Gearhead to write you a killer tune for that strategy. You won't know you're driving the same truck.

 

I don't believe I have the first FICM inductive heating strategy. The list I've seen are ARZ2AH00, ARZ2AL00 and ARZ2AL01. Mine being the last one.
Other than resoldering the resistors on the board I never had a FICM problem but I'll look into it some more.

 

These were the first inductive heating strategies for:

ARZ2AH00 2003 early 2004
ARZ2AL00 late 2004
ARZ2AL01 2005-2007

For the FICM killer not to affect your truck as it has others, you must've taken very good care of it and the charging system.

 

Here's some infor I found about the FICM flash stratagies:

A big part of the fuel mileage and performance is the hardware on the truck. low fuel pressure, weak injectors, high pressure oil system leaks, turbo problems, etc are all a factor.

With JDCs truck he had the first inductive heat strategy in his FICM. i flashed his ECM, TCM & FICM back with my ford wds scan tool. the ficm strategy went from ARZ2AL01 to AMZ2AL12. AMZ2AL12 is a strong factory ficm calibration however it does not have inductive heat. i dont do much flashing back with my WDS anymore because most trucks do not do well without the inductive heat strategy, instead i flash any of the PHP FICM tunes, they have inductive heat so cold runability is much better. lack of inductive heat can hurt fuel mileage, if the engine is running poorly until it is close to operating temp then there is a big loss in fuel economy, especially in the winter.

JDCs truck with innovatives xtreme race picked up 30 or 40rwhp on dynojet after flashing from ARZ2AL01 to AMZ2AL12 (36x rwhp up to 400rwhp). i flashed the PHP 100hp Tune in and there was no change in rwhp. as i told him with custom tuning already in place and a strong factory ficm calibration the gains with the ficm tuning are in torque at low rpm, throttle response and fuel mileage.

those going from ARZ2AH00 (03-04) ARZ2AL00 (04.5) ARZ2AL01 (05-07) < the first inductive heat strategys and ARZ2AH10 (03-04), ARZ2AL10 (04.5), & ARZ2AL11 (05-07) < latest inductive heat strategys will see a big gain threw out the entire RPM range when going to a PHP FICM tune. the reason for this is these reflash calibrations are severely detuned, the max clips for pulse width, timing and icp are all lower therefor limit power output. this also affects fuel economy.

 

I tow all over so I do take care of it. Plus it's a dual alternator truck.

 

Just read that. I found it in a pdf during Google search.

 

Well no wonder you haven't had a problem....

Dual alternators more than keep the electrical system happy.

 

Both that have been replaced over 60,000 miles ago. Almost time to freshen them up.

 

Hahahahahahahaha I got Dual alts, and all they have done is cost me money, and I still had to replace an FICM once!
That second alt don't help anything!

 

Remember it's a system. If one piece gets weak it's dragging the rest of the system with it until it finally wipes out the FICM. Especially if you aren't keeping up with it making sure the batts, alts, cables, ect. are all happy.
No troubles here.