Act, sure you don't just need to bleed and cycle the the antilock. I bet a bit of air will bleed out. Some really hard stops on wet roads will do this, then bleed again. It worked for me. If you don't have a good bleed buddy, then the Russell speed bleeders and hose into a can are pretty darn sweet.

 

My buddy and his dad came over and hung out and helped. He said should really do a bench bleed on the master but said if we pumped the pedal and cracked each line on it, that should work too. Went around and bled each corner and had no air when we were done.

And thats the thing...i cant do a hard stop if i wanted too. I can put my foot to the floor and my truck just gradually slows down. ABS will only kick on in the snow, never in the rain. Truck just doesnt slow down that fast

 

that's no beuno.
seems like you have to have air some where.

 

its been like this ever since i bought the truck. i put on brand new motorcraft pads and rotors and that hardly did anything. i have a friend with an 05 cclb 6.0 on 35s as well and he says the same thing. truck wont stop hard, just gradually slows down

 

weird. mine feels like it would put you through the windshield if you were not wearing a seat belt.
and i have advance auto parts pads and rotors on it now.
how is your power steering?
turn pretty easy while idling?

 

With stock tires it was fine, with 35x12.5s sometimes at idle it wont turn the tires

 

definitely an odd one you got there.
if there is no air in the lines for sure, the hydro-boost system is where to start looking i guess.

 

If you truely have all the air outta the lines then you have other issues. Even with the abs on my truck ive still been able to lock them up. Granted with the abs itll skip down the road. But still can do it. But im with the others you most likely still air in there. Might be you even have a booster issue too

 

Time to look at the flex lines to see of you have one or more that
are ballooning on you.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

thats kind of what i was thinking. ive been meaning to order the nice braided stainless lines from PMF but i guess thatll be for another day

 

Finally got the oil changed. Yeah way too many miles on it. I want to thank whom ever posted keep the oil level halfway between the min. and max. lines so as to be able to easily see the level and detect if it starts making oil.

 

I've heard that sometimes those lines break down in the inside which can cause decreased flow to the calipers.

 

Changed the coolant filter for the first time today (5000 miles).

Wow, not a good sight. Definitely a little disconcerting.

Poured out of the filter:



Inside the filter:



All the gook from just ONE fin in the filter. I can't imagine emptying ever fin into a pile. Wow.



New filter installed and hopefully grabbing anything else in there.



Cheers,

Nate

 

Welp... $185 later for a new starter the truck started right up.. even cranked over faster than when i first bought the truck...

unplugged the EGR Valve and took it out for a run down the street... There was this strange feeling... i pushed the pedal down to the floor... and there was this overwhelming feeling to move to the back seat...

old starter...







im wondering if this is actually supposed to look like that...



nice shiny now one...





put it in.. looks nice and shiny there with a nice clean engine.. kinda sad the tranny looks nasty from the engine...



just cause i love how the gauges look together..

 

Well I got around to changing my air filter today.
192g of dust in the puppy. Well it was 192g heavier than the one i put in.

Here is the manometer reading I got on the old one then on the new one.
You can ignore the bottom number.



Old Filter



New Filter

The reading is in mbar. This was done on a warm engine at idle A/C on both times.

BTW The new filter was not an easy first seal so I took it back apart to recheck.
It sealed right. It just was new and tight fit. Good seal. No gaps.

Sean

6.0L Tech Folder